How to insulate the door in the bath

Do-it-yourself insulation for the bath door thermal curtain

A thermal curtain will help to effectively provide thermal insulation for the dressing room.

Make a sealing frame on the inside of the door block. Cut the insulation into strips (2 strips of 10 cm * 100 cm and 2 10 cm * 200 cm are enough). Nail them around the perimeter of the door frame 2 cm from the edge, placing them towards the door.

With a standard door size, nail wooden blocks over the insulation: two 2x2x184 cm in size, and two -2x2x80 cm. Wrap them with strips of insulation, cutting off its excess and press it on three sides with cash.

From a dense fabric, tarpaulin or leatherette, make a solid screen 120 * 200 cm in size. On the one hand, sew it along the entire height so that a bar 2x2x200 cm in size enters this lapel.

The other side must be attached to the wall, 10 centimeters from the cashing. Cover the edge with a decorative rail. Sew metal rings at the top of the canvas.

Now the final stage of making a thermal curtain for a bath door with your own hands - screw a self-tapping screw over the rail, leaving a 2 cm end outside, to which a strong wire should be attached.

We stretch it through the rings of the screen and fix it with another self-tapping screw above the door block parallel to the cashing. To the left of the door, attach two springs or rubber bands from the bike tube, providing them with hooks. Sew rings onto the screen at the level of these springs. The work is done.

In the non-working position, the screen is to the right, behind the door. Entering the bath, slide it to the left, securing it with hooks, the fabric will fit snugly against the sealing frame, blocking the access of cold air.

Warming the bath from the cold

Insulating from the inside is a mandatory aspect in the construction of a bath. This step will help reduce heating costs, maintain the desired temperature and speed up the heating of the room.

Thermal insulation materials are usually divided into two types:

• organic origin;
• inorganic origin.

A very important factor is not only the heat-insulating and moisture-resistant characteristics of the insulating material, but also its environmental friendliness. In order to prevent heat from escaping to the outside, the base is often sheathed with foam boards, fastened with glue. To insulate the walls of the bath, a crate of bars is used. If necessary, insulation is sometimes placed not in one layer, but in several at once. Lining with clapboard is the last stage, in which a small gap is left to prevent rotting of the material.

Ceiling insulation should not be ignored, otherwise 15% of all heat will be lost. The ceiling in the bath is insulated with foam boards, which significantly reduces heat loss. After the seams are sealed with special foam and vapor barrier materials are used, you can proceed to the sheathing with boards.

Several ways to insulate a bath door

Staple fiberglass can be used as a heater for the door block in the bath; expanded polystyrene, incl. extruded; foamed polyethylene foam or basalt insulation. Each of these materials has its own characteristics in terms of combustibility, vapor permeability, and environmental friendliness. But, in principle, any of them can be used.

Depending on the initial design of the door block, the method of insulation is chosen:

• Production of an additional wooden frame from a bar with its subsequent installation on an existing structure using insulation and a decorative coating.
• Laying insulation in the inner chamber of the door.
• Installation of thermal insulation over the canvas on nails or self-tapping screws, followed by covering the material with a decorative finish.
• Thermal curtain.

Let us consider in more detail the above indicated methods of insulation.

The door to the bathroom swells

With high humidity, high temperature and poor ventilation, the door may swell. This is not a good sign, but it is not necessary to change the door to a new one:

• Provide good ventilation in the room and allow the wood to dry thoroughly;
• After complete drying, when the door acquires its previous size, apply a special water-repellent solution to it. It will not allow further moisture to seep into the wood.

Tip: when treating the door with a water-repellent solution, do not forget about the door jamb. It must also be isolated from the ingress of excess liquid.

The door treatment solution can be a polyfluid. It is very easy to apply and penetrates well into the very depths of the fibers, creating, at the same time, a protective layer. Read the instructions on how to choose a stove for a bath

Option with an additional wooden frame

From the materials you need to prepare:

• wooden bars 20 x 20 mm;
• insulation;
• aluminum and building nails with caps or self-tapping screws;
• sheet of fiberboard or wood plywood.

For convenience, the bath door must be removed and laid on a flat, solid base.

Along the entire perimeter of the canvas, wooden bars must be nailed, so that their edges protrude beyond the boundaries of the existing canvas by 10-15 mm. Using aluminum nails, it is necessary to nail the insulation to the frame, folded in half so that it protrudes 10-15 mm beyond the edges of the frame.

The mechanism of action of this design is that the door itself becomes warmer, and in the closed state, additional sealing is provided by a heater bent outward, nailed with an overlap.

Laying insulation in the inner chamber

If a volumetric door is provided in the bath, then it must have a heater in its cavity. In the event that cold drafts appear in the bath, the insulation must be replaced. In all likelihood, he fell into disrepair. To do this, the door removed from the hinges must be disassembled and the old insulation removed from its cavity. After laying the new material, the canvas must be re-mounted and installed in place. All wooden parts should fit very tightly to each other, and there should be an air gap in the cavity of the canvas.

What should be the door to the bath

It is most rational for a bath to use a low and narrow entrance, through such a design air exchange will be difficult and therefore the heat in the bath will be better preserved. The door must open outward, this must be provided for security reasons. After all, pushing it out, if necessary, is more realistic than opening it, pulling it towards you.

Since a resin door can release resin during operation, hardwood will be a more suitable material for making a door block in a bath.

In order to avoid swelling of the door and subsequent damage, it must be carefully insulated against moisture. All parts of the door block must be carefully fitted to each other. A whole door leaf is always more airtight than a prefabricated one.

Specifications

Usually the entrance door to the bathhouse is slightly smaller than the one that is installed for the steam room.

Usually the entrance door to the bath is slightly smaller than the one that is installed for the steam room. Its standard sizes are:

• Canvas = 80 cm;
• Doorway height = 150 cm.

In this case, it is important to take into account the fact that the door will necessarily open outward, and not into the room. Read the guide to choosing an electric stove for a bath on this page

When choosing a wooden door for a bath, you should definitely consider the following factors:

It is important to use only high quality wood;
It is worth placing the door only in the southern part of the room (to avoid oblique rain);
It is worth paying attention to veneered doors, as they have a fairly high thermal conductivity and it is much easier to make them yourself.

Choice of door size

The door will be exposed to extreme heat and humidity. It is very important that steam not only does not escape when the door is closed, but also that it escapes to a minimum when people enter and exit. Therefore, the door to the steam room is traditionally made low. Its height depends on the height of the finishing ceiling of the steam room itself, and it, in turn, depends on the height and number of "floors" - regiments

But the ceiling in the bath is never very high - usually it is at the level of 220-230 centimeters

Its height depends on the height of the final ceiling of the steam room itself, and it, in turn, depends on the height and number of "floors" - regiments. But the ceiling in the bath is never very high - usually it is at the level of 220-230 centimeters.

We consider: 230–60 \u003d 170 centimeters, subtract the “margin” of 10 centimeters, the result: the optimal door height is -160 centimeters.

We insulate the door in the waiting room

In cold weather, going to the bathhouse gives a special pleasure, warming up in the steam room, the body stays in a comfortable, healthy state for a long time, so you want to stay in the bathhouse longer. In order not to overheat, you need to periodically enter the dressing room, and then continue thermal procedures.

It’s good when the dressing room is built taking into account the lowest temperatures and it’s comfortable in it, because if it’s cold from the floor, then you won’t sit in such a dressing room for a long time, you can easily catch a cold and the impression of such a trip to the bathhouse will remain negative. Most often, the cause of discomfort in the form of a cold draft is the loss of sealing of the entrance door to the bath.

Hanging blankets on the door, installing a second block does not solve this problem, but, perhaps, exacerbates it by the fact that frost forms on the inside of the door and in some places the canvas freezes to the jamb. Then it becomes impossible to open the bathhouse without an ax, mechanical action can lead not only to the formation of even larger gaps, but even to breakage of the block.

Two-chamber entrance door to the bath

The presence of the vestibule saves from the penetration of a cold air flow into the dressing room, but a very humid environment is created between the doors, due to which the structures are damaged, so the entrance door to the dressing room should be as insulated as possible. The best option for arranging the entrance is to install a two-chamber door.

The design should provide for 2 hollow chambers isolated from each other, inside each chamber there should be a certain volume that must be filled with insulation.

The manufacturing process is:

preparation of materials: wooden blocks 20 x 20 mm, 3 fiberboard panels, two of which will play the role of the outer and inner surfaces, and the third will play the role of a partition between the chambers and insulation. It is not necessary to use a purchased insulation, outerwear that has gone out of use (natural fur coats, batting from a coat, synthetic winterizer, etc.) will fit perfectly.

the manufacture of two identical frames from bars according to the size of the door leaf;
making the door and installing it in place.

The sequence of work is as follows: first, a sheet of fiberboard is laid on a hard surface, face down, and a prepared frame of bars is nailed to it around the perimeter. The resulting trough is filled with insulation and covered with a middle shield (it is allowed to make it from two components with careful fitting of parts).

Next, a second frame is attached to the resulting structure, it is also desirable to fill the second trough with light insulation and cover it with a third shield with the front surface outward.

Nails with hats or self-tapping screws must be chosen so long that they go into the cavity of the part to be joined to the middle. The end surfaces must be cleaned with medium coarse sandpaper. It is advisable to prime the entire door and varnish or paint.

We solve the problem in a complex

Proper space planning is also important.

Many people, having laid out good money for the complete warming of the bath, suddenly find that the desired warming, for some reason, does not happen. Yes, it is warmer, but where is the promised bliss, and why drafts are walking on the floor.

The answer usually lies on the surface and whistles with pleasure - the door, the ordinary door to the bathhouse, becomes the cause of this final inconvenience.

The solution to this problem can be very simple, or it can be a little more complicated, namely:

• Insulation of the door leaf itself;
• Insulation and sealing of joints in the place where the door adjoins the jamb;
• Thermal curtain installation;
• Installing a second door

Today we will go through all the points and be sure to solve two basic questions: how to insulate the door to the bath and how to insulate the door to the bath.

Let's take care of the canvas

Photo of polyethylene foam foil.

Any carpenter will tell you that it is not desirable to make the door structure heavier, moreover, it is fraught with distortions, and considering where the door is located (meaning in the bath), its weighting is a completely unnecessary event.

Therefore, in this section we solve the problems:

• Which insulation to choose so that it does not absorb moisture, tolerates low temperatures normally and is not very heavy;
• How to layer this insulation on the door leaf.

We will not transmit the entire flow of information that the Internet is full of about warming the canvas, we give a very simple method and its justification:

As a door leaf insulation, we offer you foamed polyethylene with a foil layer. The material itself is quite resistant to cold, has an invaluable advantage of wind and moisture impermeability, in addition, the foil layer will return heat flows back to the bath. And the weight of the material will be slightly more than the total mass of the layers of impregnation of paint and varnish. The hinges will not experience a large load and the canvas will not lead.

The usual pasting of the door with this material.

From canvas to joint

After warming the door leaf, let's take care of the jamb

The simplest thing is to beat the inner perimeter of the jamb with the door tightly closed (and note, already insulated)

In the old days, felt was the most popular insulation for the front door, but now you can use it in any other way. The main requirements for the material: it must be soft enough, and at the same time fit snugly against the door leaf, thus preventing air from entering, and also not lose its qualities when in contact with water, not cake or tear.

Technology has not changed:

• The insulation is cut into thin narrow strips of at least 5 cm wide;
• A 20x20 mm rail is marked and sawn off in such a way as to completely and tightly cover the inner perimeter of the jamb (taking into account the thickness of the insulation itself);
• The insulation is folded in half and installed with a fold to the door leaf as close to it as possible, pressed and fixed with a rail to the jamb;
• Thus, the entire perimeter of the doorway is recruited.

Full Guarantee

If you already want to get a full guarantee of protection from the cold, then you can finish the insulation of the door to the bathhouse using curtains made of dense material. You do not need instructions for cutting and making curtains. We chose the material, cut it out, cut it out, stitched the edges, thought out the fastening system and hung it up. At the same time, the fastening system can be under the rings on the pipe, just overlapping the valve and flashing the valve under the pipe, or you can generally make a canvas for clothespins (clothespin fastenings). There is also an easy fixing method between two planks. Therefore, we do not limit you in fastening and choosing a material.

A few words about the second door

That's the point.

The second door is a tried and tested method that has proven itself on the positive side. Bet.To implement this, it is necessary either to install a jamb in which it will be technically possible to put two doors, while the adjustment of two canvases must be carried out before installation in the opening, which sometimes requires both financial costs, and time, and the warm season.

You can install an additional jamb and canvas to the existing ones, while it is necessary to consider fixing the new structure to the already standing one. The positive quality of the second door is a layer of air, which acts as a buffer and prevents the calm passage of cold into the dressing room.

Indications for warming

Door insulation serves several purposes:

• The first is to prevent heat loss. The bath is especially prone to heat loss. It is always very hot in the steam room, and in winter, with a sufficiently large temperature difference, heat losses increase significantly.
• Protection of the door from drying out and decay. A simple wooden door with a variable humidity regime will begin to increase and decrease in size. This will affect the door frame. As a result, there are often situations when the door simply stops closing or opening, and mold forms on the surface of the canvas.
• Drafts are a big problem with wooden doors. In particular, a cold breeze will always be felt above the floor of the steam room without door insulation. This is unlikely to end in a disease, but it will certainly spoil the rest in the steam room.

It is necessary to insulate the doors in the bath when there are heat losses

Therefore, it is definitely necessary to insulate the door to the bath. To simplify the process, the door to the steam room and the dressing room are insulated according to the same scheme.

What happens if you don't insulate your doors?

I will share the experience of acquaintances who let everything take their course in their bath. They did everything beautifully, did not think about frost or cold.

Any tree swells from contact with water, these are the laws of physics. In the cold winter season, frost forms on the doors. The doors don't close and are covered with frost. The long-awaited warmth comes, the ice melts, the doors absorb moisture and swell so that they can no longer be closed.

Damaged wood begins to rot, and mold and rot form. In the bath there is not the aroma of a broom and bath heat, but a persistent aroma of old age, dilapidation.

Do not be lazy, take the time to insulate the front doors, because they are the main protection not only from prying eyes, but also a barrier to the winter cold!

Who doesn't love taking a bath? Bath procedures are unlikely to ever lose their relevance, especially in cloudy and cold Russia. What could be more pleasant in the winter to take a portion of the heat? In order for a visit to the bathhouse to be absolutely comfortable, it must be built taking into account all the requirements. Warming the door in the bath is an important stage of construction, it depends on how well the heat will be retained inside the room. Today we will talk about how to insulate the doors to the bath. Here you will find step-by-step instructions and helpful tips.

Materials for insulation and their properties

Special requirements are imposed on the materials for warming the door to the bath:

• First of all, the thermal insulation material must be resistant to high temperatures. Hot air is constantly in the steam room, which enters the dressing room. There are a number of heaters that in a normal situation behave more than with dignity, but at elevated temperatures they begin to release harmful substances into the room. These include most of the mineral wool boards.
• Important is the requirement for moisture resistance of the material. No matter how you protect the insulation, water will still find a way to get into the thickness of the material and destroy it. Therefore, it is impossible to use materials like foam rubber for insulation. But the parameter of moisture resistance is fully consistent with expanded polystyrene.
• The last factor is vapor permeability. Any tree should breathe and the wooden door to the bathhouse is no exception.Complete moisture insulation will lead to the fact that the tree will begin to rot and the door will quickly become unusable. Among other tasks, door insulation should maximize the life of the structure.

Suitable materials include the following options:

• Felt. The ideal material, because it meets all the above requirements. At the same time, the heater is environmentally friendly. But there is a huge minus: natural felt is not cheap, and the market is filled with its synthetic substitutes. It is strictly forbidden to use material even with a minimal admixture of synthetics; such an analogue can catch fire from a single spark.
• Mineral wool basalt slabs. This option meets all the stated requirements, while being cheap and easy to install. But in such situations, there is always a “but”. Recent studies by scientists have shown that when heated, the insulation releases harmful substances. These studies have not yet been confirmed by a large series of experience, the accumulation of information is required, so mineral wool boards should not be discounted. To use this material or not is the decision solely of the owner of the bath.
• Izolon foil. Today it is the most popular material in Russia for insulating doors to the bath. This is an affordable insulation, easy to install and not whimsical to operate. This material has no negative sides in a particular situation. Isolon cannot be used for external insulation, but we are talking about internal structures, so this drawback is not critical.

Felt - one of the materials for insulating the door in the bath

Glass wool materials must not be used. This is a rule that must not be broken. Glass wool insulation is a rather capricious material; it is better not to use it in health facilities like a bathhouse. It is very difficult to get rid of glass dust, which is a natural product of the installation process. After installing the insulation for a long time, glass dust will cause inconvenience, remaining on the wooden floor of the steam room.
The main criterion for choosing from the presented heaters should be the price. Warming should be as cheap and affordable as possible. If you hesitate between felt and isolon, it is better to choose a material that is cheaper in the region of construction.

Methods and technology for insulating a door block in a bath

There are only 3 methods and technologies for door insulation. Each of them has its advantages and disadvantages, so it makes sense to talk about each of the options in more detail.

Additional wooden frame

An additional wooden frame is a design that is aimed at combating the main source of heat loss - heating of the rushing air and drafts. The point of modernization is to minimize the distance between the door frame and the frame.

To do this, the following steps are performed:

1. The platbands are removed, felt is laid between the platbands and the wall. Instead of removing the box, you can install an additional one. To do this, you just need to lay the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe door frame with felt, and then close it with a second layer of platband. Felt is nailed with a construction stapler.
2. A pie made of platbands must be closed with a facing material: slats, clapboard or fiberboard
3. The door is adjusted to the new dimensions of the platband
4. The space between the door and the casing is laid with strips of felt or rubber seal. The main task is to get rid of drafts

thermal curtain

A thermal curtain is more of a temporary solution than a real solution to the problem of drafts and heat loss. The curtain is used in regions with especially low temperatures in winter or as a temporary shelter in newly built baths. In fact, this is just a curtain made of heat-insulating fabric: leatherette or felt cloth.

To equip the curtains, the material itself, a bar or baguette, on which the material is hung, is required.

There are two arrangement options:

1. In the first case, the fabric is simply nailed to the bar with a rail or the bar itself is pressed against the wall. Thin nails are used for the clamping rail. The advantage of this method is more efficient heat retention. The curtain will close by itself after entering the steam room. The disadvantage is obvious: it will be extremely inconvenient to enter the room.
2. The second option is to hang the canvas on the rings, which, in turn, are put on the baguette. It's more convenient, but not as productive.

If we are talking about a temporary curtain, then it is better to use the first option, since temporary inconvenience can be tolerated for the sake of thermal efficiency.

But talking about constant discomfort when going to the steam room is stupid, so the second option is often used as a permanent solution.

double door

A two-chamber door or a double door is the most popular and technologically advanced way to insulate a door to a bathhouse. The point is to replace the door leaf with a pie, in which the insulation sheets will be clamped with fiberboard boards.

To make a two-chamber door you will need:

• MDF boards
• Bars to create a frame. The width of the bar should correspond to the width of the insulation sheet. The same value is the future thickness of the door
• insulation
• Nails or self-tapping screws for fixing fiberboard sheets.
• Door fittings: hinges and handle.

Double door to bathroom

First, a frame is created. As a rule, these are just bars along the perimeter of the door with one jumper in the middle. A fiberboard sheet is attached to the frame on one side. The space between the bars is filled with insulation, and then the cake on the other side is closed with the same fiberboard. Additional insulation of the door around the perimeter will allow you to forget about the cold and drafts in the steam room forever.

Summing up, we can say that warming the door to the steam room or dressing room is a fairly simple task.

It is important to choose the right material and carefully produce insulation. But the implementation of even the most complex solutions does not present any special problems.

Advice

Experts have prepared some useful recommendations.

For the greatest comfort of the bath room, you should pay attention to some recommendations of experienced craftsmen. For example, it is better to install a bathhouse on the south side, since in winter, when you sometimes want to take a steam bath, it will be easier to get to the entrance due to the fastest snowmelt on the side closer to the south

In addition, it would be preferable if the windows face west, since in the evening the room will be illuminated by rays much longer.
Also, for constant air circulation and excellent heat retention, it is recommended to build a bath from wooden logs.

Finally

Thermal insulation of doors is an important stage

We watch the video in this article and keep warm in the bath by closing the front door.

Winter is the most severe time here in Russia. Entrance doors to the bathhouse in winter carry a double load. They need not only to keep expensive heat and heat in the bath, but also to keep out the severe cold and cold.

Insulation of the front door should be given special attention if you use the bath in the winter. How to insulate doors with your own hands and what materials are better to use - today's conversation is about this

The stronger the washing compartment warms up, the more sensitively it pulls cold air across the dressing room floor. And this contrast only intensifies, because in winter the stove continues to heat up all the time while you are busy with bath procedures.

Coming out steamed and warmed up, a person should rest a little in the dressing room, dry off and stop sweating. And only then will he get dressed.

Cold air quickly cools the legs, but the body is still hot, sweat pouring from the forehead. Instead of being useful, such a bath can lead to a cold.

The doors in the old Russian baths were very small, and the thresholds were high.This is how in the old days they defended themselves from the winter frosty air. Today, such a method of protection does not work at all.