How to tile an apron in the kitchen
When finishing a kitchen apron with ceramic tiles, the technology is practically no different from that described above. There is simply no need to calculate the number of vertical rows. The place of "start" is determined by the height of the countertop: it should start 5-10 cm above the edge of the tile. Fasten the bar at the required level, align it exactly to the horizon, and you can start.
An example of a tiled backsplash on a work wall in a kitchen
An apron in the kitchen is usually made on a work wall. If this is not one wall, but two or three, you can start from one of the corners.
How to tile an apron in the kitchen
If it is laid out from a small tile, the undercuts may not be very conspicuous. If you want everything to be symmetrical, repeat the layout and start from the center, as described above.
Useful tips from professionals in facade finishing
It is quite possible to carry out the installation of clinker with your own hands, but for the durability of such a coating, it is important not to neglect the advice, building codes and laying rules
- To finish the facade, you should choose dry and calm weather with a temperature of + 5 + 30 degrees.
- You need to start the design with windows and doors, marking the boundaries of the location with a pencil.
- It is desirable to divide the walls into squares with a side of 1 m, so that the tiles look natural and emphasize the walls favorably.
- As a rule, tiles of a darker color are laid out at the bottom of the facade - up to 6 m from ground level.
- Tiles should be uniform in texture and hue, although minor variations in color are acceptable.
- Dark color contributes to overheating of the building, so it should not exceed 20% when laid out, taking into account the total area of \u200b\u200bthe facade.
- To fill the joints, it is recommended to use a grout mixture, and you can buy it in different colors, taking into account the shades of the tile.
- The surface before laying must be smooth and clean, without chips and cracks, which must first be coated, then apply a layer of primer.
- After sealing, it is additionally recommended to prime the walls to strengthen the base, increase its adhesion to the mortar.
- The clinker must be mounted after the reinforcing mixture has completely dried.
- Clinker is laid in rows, and start from the corner of the room, moving from the bottom up.
- When gluing insulation to the walls, it is desirable to cover it with a reinforcing compound or a layer of fiberglass on top.
Fiberglass will help insulate the room
Tools and Material Calculations
Before gluing gypsum bricks on the walls, you need to prepare tools and calculate the amount of material. For the calculation, it is necessary to measure the length and height of the walls on which the installation will be, and multiply the resulting values. From the resulting number, door and window openings are removed in order to reduce costs. After the calculation, about 10% is added to the total value for the stock. Knowing how much material is needed, it must be taken into account that it is flat and angular, which is used at the corner of the room.
Tools for laying decorative stone
For work you will need:
Perhaps you need a hand tool in the form of a saw for cutting bricks. The adhesive composition is sold differently, depending on where the walls are finished with bricks: inside, outside. Glue can be dry or liquid, in the form of a paste. Additionally, crosses are bought so that the seam is even everywhere.
Preparatory stages
Before installing the clinker facade tiles, it is first necessary to carry out preparatory work.
- Calculate the amount of the required tool and material.
- Decide on the laying scheme, usually the panels are placed vertically on a fireplace, wooden, concrete base.
- Make calculations, calculate the area, perimeter (length, height) of the facade.
Before starting work, it is necessary to make calculations
When preparing, the base (metal, cement screed, concrete, brick wall) requires special attention and should be:
- durable;
- smooth vertically and horizontally;
- dry for perfect laying of clinker;
- with high bearing capacity;
- without cracks;
- clean and it is worth removing particles of varnish, paint, lubricants, otherwise the adhesive properties of the adhesive will be underestimated;
- durable, shedding of individual sections is unacceptable.
If necessary, the base must be plastered and leveled using repair plaster. In the case of laying clinker tiles on the facade, it is advisable to first lay thermal insulation, which will contribute to the transfer of heat into the room, protect against penetration of fungus and bacteria into the walls.
On a note! There must be no weakly adhering plaster elements on the base. They must be removed so that the clinker sticks evenly and firmly for many years.
The clinker is laid on an adhesive composition, which can be purchased at a hardware store, taking into account the installation instructions written on the package.
You can use the traditional mortar by preparing yourself:
- sand (4 parts);
- cement brand M500 (1 part).
The output should be a rather plastic composition with the addition of water, so that it is applied and distributed over the surface in a uniform thin layer.
Docking materials
Technological docking of laminate and ceramics can be carried out using the following products:
- the use of a flexible PVC profile allows you to connect curvilinear bends;
- a flexible metal profile is used to connect curved zones and straight seams;
- an aluminum threshold is used to process the mating surfaces under the door leaf;
- the use of a box threshold increases sound insulation and seals the joints;
- with the help of a transitional PVC profile, coatings with a large height difference are finished;
- when using a cork compensator, an even mating surface is obtained between the laminate and the tile;
- using a T-shaped profile from the array, straight seams are made.
Expert answers
Boris Stepanov:
Necessarily and necessarily cement-sand mortar. If you invite an experienced tiler, he simply will not lay tiles on a bare wall. Not only that, he will also check the quality of the plaster - he will take a 2-meter jointed rail, attach it to the plaster and say where the hump is, where the belly is or everything is fine and you can lay the tiles
On a plastered wall, the tile will lie perfectly even, it will not require an unreasonably large consumption of glue, which is especially important, the strength will be significantly higher, and hence the durability
Vladimir:
of course it’s necessary, the brickwork is uneven, otherwise it will be sloppy
Alexey Frost:
Yes basically no
Alexey Oveskin:
If the brick is laid "beautifully" by no means!
Alexander Kukushkin:
Not necessarily, but then it will be easier to lay the tiles and less glue will go away.
Gennady_36:
If you lay tiles on the plaster, it will be smoother. But plaster can stick poorly to the wall and then fall off along with the tile. It is better to glue tiles on the wall, glue them on the brickwork. More area of adhesive contact with masonry, better adhesion.
NOT YET OLD:
When laying tiles under a comb, the walls must be leveled with plaster along the lighthouses.
Oleg Prozorov:
Be sure to plaster .. just not with cement mortar. After plastering and tile lay out faster, and less glue will go away, and it will be much smoother. And the sharomygs who advise laying without plaster - do not listen!
Bronislav Zmitrukevich:
Plastering of course! Otherwise, how to lay down that tile. And if the area is large, then you can do it by machine, for example, plastering /services/.
Alexandra Timofeeva:
Yes need.I recommend using "MIXTER" plaster "(made on the basis of gypsum and cement with the addition of a light filler, which reduces the consumption of the dry mix, and high-quality modifying additives, which allow high-quality finishing work in a short time. It is ideal for work in rooms with normal and high humidity. Layer thickness from 5 to 60 mm.) from the company Prospectors or plaster "Optimum" (intended for mechanized and manual plastering of walls and ceilings, on brick, concrete, foam-gas concrete, gypsum and other bases in rooms with normal and high humidity, for finishing in all types of buildings and structures (A-B), including rooms where a wet disinfection regime is provided Mix consumption (with a layer thickness of 10 mm) - 10-11 kg / sq. m. Layer thickness from 5 to 60 mm). I also recommend Plus tile adhesive
Darina Krasyuk:
SERGEY BLAGININ:
it is possible, but it will fall off, the glue will exfoliate from the non-plastered brick. just primer, plaster, prime again and glue the tiles. I will explain why it is impossible to glue immediately on a brick. glue is applied with a layer of no more than 10 millimeters (it is written on any bag). on a brick, such evenness practically does not happen and the thickness of the glue is uneven. however, there are special adhesives for non-plastered surfaces with a layer of up to 30 mm, but this is for specialists. better do it as it should - first plaster and then glue at least a mosaic under the comb
zero-phase:
Of course mona
Diam:
Can.
Alex Swan:
It is possible - but I strongly doubt that your brick lies flat.
Alexander Bakushev:
primer and glue!
Alexander Kolisnichenko:
It is possible, but the consumption of glue will be large. Beam plastered under the lighthouses with a cement-sand mixture. It will pay off in the end
Hokim Jumaev:
Can!
Victoria:
When I changed the tiles in the bathroom, it was a pity to throw away the old one, it completely broke off, and I glued it on the balcony to the brick wall with the most common cement-sand mortar, it still holds (15 years) in those places where it was not beaten during installation windows, but I must say that the masonry was far from perfect. This year I bought the rest of the tiles on sale, I want to glue them.
Scarifier:
The brick gives expansion with seasonal temperature fluctuations, the tile will stick to the brick but later cracks and flaking will appear, the plaster is a damper between the tile and the brick and it is easier to veneer a flat wall. It is impossible to glue a mosaic, small decor elements such as - Pencil on a brick without plastering it.
turnkey bathroom:
If the wall is flat and there are 90 degrees in the corners, then Betonokontakt is a special primer and start work, otherwise, plaster with Betonokontakt primer and lay the tile.
Best Answers
Vadik Andreev:
If you have a base, that is, a wall that is fairly even, then you can lay tiles on it, having previously done all the preparatory work. If the wall has large deviations in level and plane, then plastering is indispensable. The plaster also has a protective function. In general, in order to carry out high-quality work on facing walls and floors with ceramic tiles, perfectly aligned surfaces are needed, here the glue consumption is minimal, and the time spent on the work is reduced significantly.
Bolshevik cats:
If the tile adhesive is suitable for silicate surfaces, then you can. Whether it falls off or not, you need to choose high-quality modern adhesives and see what surfaces they are suitable for.
Andrei Borisovich:
lay down no. just put
Druid:
If money is not important at all, then you can. It’s better to plaster it, it’s better to lay tiles on a flat surface, and it will be difficult for a non-professional to lay tiles on a layer of glue of 3 cm
You just treat the brick with a primer, this improves adhesion and there is no dust on the brick.
Igor Iskandarov:
Of course you can.Mix the solution 1 to 4, and 2 kg of glue per bucket of solution. Wash the wall with a brush.
costiann:
if you do it normally, you will put it for 2 months ...
Alexander Bakushev:
you can pin the drywall on the fugen and scroll the dowel with nails, then primer and put chocolate!
How to remove tiles from a wall
Like all other finishing work, laying tiles begins with careful preparation of the base. First of all, you need to start by removing the old tile. To do this, we need a puncher with a lance. The sequence for dismantling the tiles is as follows:
Use a sponge to dampen the seams between the tiles.
Clean the joints of the grout mixture with a metal spatula.
Inserting the peak of the perforator into the seam between the tiles, remove the tiles from the wall. It is better to dismantle the tile from top to bottom.
The tile can be removed in another way - with a hammer and chisel. First, the seams, as in the previous method, are wetted and cleaned of grout. Then a chisel is inserted under the top tile and the tile is knocked down with hammer blows. However, this process is more labor intensive than using a puncher and will take longer.
Preparing for styling
Before laying the tiles on the wall, you should draw a diagram of the walls with the exact dimensions of the surfaces to be trimmed. The diagram also indicates recesses, openings, sockets and other elements that affect the laying order.
Necessary materials
To deal with the question of how to lay tiles on a wall, you must first purchase the materials necessary for this:
Bonding material such as glue or cement mixture;
- primer;
- Grout;
- Tiles, selected depending on the operating conditions of the room;
- Remote plastic crosses that ensure compliance with the dimensions of the seams;
- Trims that allow you to correctly form corners;
- Guide profiles that allow you to make the bottom row exactly horizontally;
- Self-tapping screws for fastening profiles.
Tools
Laying tiles on the wall also requires a certain set of tools that must be prepared in advance:
- Tile cutter (you can use a glass cutter or grinder);
- Drill;
- Nozzle for a drill for mixing the solution;
- Drills for drills;
- Notched trowel to optimize adhesion;
- Spatula rubber;
- Spirit level or laser device to correctly mark points horizontally;
- Sandpaper;
- Building containers for the preparation of glue and grout.
About preparing the wall
Proper wall preparation ensures that bathroom wall tiles are securely attached, look flawless, and last longer. Therefore, before laying, it is often necessary to correct the flaws of the builders by plastering with a parallel leveling of the surface.
Next, the surface of the wall is treated with a primer, ensuring optimal adhesion.
Wall preparation can be carried out without removing the following finishing materials:
- Paint covering mineral substrates such as masonry, concrete, expanded clay concrete;
- Moisture resistant drywall sheets.
Laying new bathroom tiles on top of the old one is not recommended - this is only acceptable if the cladding has been recently replaced with all the preparatory work done. To securely glue the tile to the old tile, it is necessary to use a particularly strong adhesive, as well as apply interlayers that increase adhesion.
What to pay attention to when installing
A pencil and ruler will allow you to mark the level of the wall. The distance between the horizontal lines should be 10-15 centimeters. If you want to use trim trims, then it is recommended to lay them in the lower, less visible part of the wall. Prepare a comb or spatula, with one of these tools it will be convenient to apply glue to the back of the tile. The adhesive composition is also applied to the surface to be lined, while the spatula should be held at an angle of 60 degrees.At the next stage, the tile must be pressed into the surface with rotational movements, from under which the adhesive solution will be squeezed out. The resulting excess is recommended to be used for further sealing of seams.
It is important to remember that the styling composition sets in 30 minutes. During this time, it is necessary to have time to smooth the seams using a narrow wooden spatula.
Excess solution must be removed with a damp foam sponge. For the final processing of the seams, it is necessary to use foam rubber or a brush, they are pre-moistened in water.
How to lay tiles on walls
As a rule, tiles are not laid behind kitchen furniture, which significantly reduces costs. If you plan to finish only the work surface, draw a horizontal line where the kitchen table ends. On it fix a narrow profile for drywall (with a reserve of 2-3 cm). The bottom row of tiles will rest on the profile. Fix the profile to the surface with dowels. Check the correct fastening with a level.
Stages of laying tiles.
Plastic crosses will help you form the same seams between the tiles. The thickness of the crosses depends on how thick you want to make the seams. The dimensions of the spatulas depend on the size of the tiles.
Pay attention to the reverse side of the tile, there is an arrow indicating where the bottom of the tile is. It is advisable to immediately lay the entire stack of tiles on the right side first, so as not to be distracted during work
The next step is the preparation of the glue. In order for the glue to get the required consistency, be sure to follow all the instructions given by the manufacturer on the package. It is advisable to mix the glue with a drill with a mixing nozzle. After that, wait 5-10 minutes, then mix again. This technique will make the glue plastic. The next step is directly laying the tiles. Pick up glue with a spatula and apply it to the tile. Keep the spatula immersed in water at all times so the glue won't stick to it. Remove adhesive residue from the tiles with a notched trowel.
Press the tile to the surface. Check the correct installation with a level. If the surface is well plastered and the profile is properly fixed, the tile will stand up properly on its own. The next tile is laid side by side, do not forget to install crosses between them. Check the plane using the rule. Avoid gaps.
If there is a need to cut tiles, do the work carefully: you can easily get hurt on a sharp corner. It is advisable to use a tile cutter for cutting
In its absence, you need to make an incision with a simple glass cutter, then break off the tile by placing it on the edge of the table. If you need to make cuts to fit the shape of a socket or switch, you will need a grinder.
Please note that it is only possible to shift or adjust the placement of tiles for 15 minutes after laying. After this time, you will have to remove the tile, process it and the surface and put it again.
For neat finishing of corners, plastic corners are used, the ends of the tiles are inserted into them. The corner must be 2 mm thicker than the tile, otherwise the edges of the tile will not go into the corner.
After all the work, leave the glue to dry for the whole day. Then remove the profile that served as a support for the bottom row. Down the tile will no longer move.
Next, proceed to the grouting.
After removing the plastic crosses, proceed to the grout. Choose a grout that matches the shade of your tile. The composition will need to be diluted until a uniform consistency is formed. Using a rubber spatula, carefully apply the composition between the tiles. When finished, wipe the ceramic with a slightly damp sponge.
Learning how to lay tiles on walls is easy. But in this work, you need to apply maximum patience and accuracy, as well as strictly follow the instructions for the use of materials. If you put quality tiles on the walls of the kitchen, it will create an atmosphere of warmth and comfort in the room.
- What are we repairing? click to reveal
-
Ceiling
- Select
- Prepare
- Wallpaper
- Painting
- Stretch
- Suspension
- Drywall
- PVC panels
- Rack
- Whitewash
- Tile
-
Walls
- Select
-
Prepare
- Plaster
- putty
- Warming
- Soundproofing
- Wallpaper
- Painting
- Tile
- Drywall
- Panels
- clapboard
- Decor. a rock
- Decor. plaster
-
Floor
- Select
-
Prepare
- alignment
- Warm floor
- Waterproofing
- Soundproofing
- Laminate
- Tile
- Parquet
- Linoleum
- carpet
- self-leveling floor
- Wooden floor
- parquet board
- plinth
-
Window
- Installation
- Repair
- Washing and care
- Warming
- Blinds
-
doors
- Interroom
- Input
-
Electrician
- Sockets
- Lighting
- switches
-
Technics
- Washing machine
- Hood
- Kitchen stove
- Refrigerator
- Geyser
- Air conditioner
- TV set
-
Ceiling
- Renovation of rooms living room, kitchen, bathroom.
- Bathroom
- Kitchen
- Children's
- Balcony
- Bedroom
- Living room
- Corridor
- Hallway
How to DIY
Gypsum tiles are usually manufactured in a production way, but there is also a technology by which it can be made independently. To do this, it is necessary to prepare a special room, equipping it in such a way that a constant temperature and humidity are maintained.
For self-production you will need:
- gypsum;
- forms;
- a container for preparing a solution;
- acrylic lacquer;
- colors;
- spatula and brushes.
Before starting production, it is necessary to choose the right raw materials. It is recommended to give preference to G10 brand gypsum, it is considered the highest quality. Additionally, you will also have to purchase plasticizers in the form of citric acid or slaked lime.
For independent production of decorative tiles, it is important to choose its matrix. There are silicone and polyurethane matrices, while the former are cheaper and can only be used for gypsum mixtures, while the latter are considered universal.
This process is not considered difficult and will take only one day. A stone sample is used as a basis and a matrix is calculated and prepared from it. After it is completely dry, polyurethane is poured and the desired product is obtained.
Prior to pouring, the matrices are thoroughly cleaned and lubricated with mixtures containing fat. To prepare the solution, take 6 parts of gypsum, 1 part of lime, color and clean water (in a ratio of 1: 0.7). Since gypsum tends to instantly harden, the solution must be prepared quickly, stirring all the components with a construction mixer. The mixture is poured into molds and leveled with a spatula. It is worth noting that the mixture is prepared only for the required number of forms, it cannot be prepared with a margin, because it will become hard and unsuitable for further use.
All cast forms are placed on a flat surface and left for 20 minutes to set. Complete drying takes about a day and should take place in a dry room.
It is also important to check that after pouring the matrix, the solution is evenly distributed and does not have air bubbles on the surface, otherwise the product may turn out to be defective.
When the plaster is dry, it is removed and left to dry further. Products from matrices must be removed carefully, without violating their integral structure. To speed up the drying process, it is recommended to place the future tiles in drying chambers, while avoiding direct sunlight.
Initially, gypsum tiles are white in color, therefore, if its decoration provides for a color design, the product needs to be painted. As coloring solutions, as a rule, dry mixtures are used, which dissolve in liquid colors.
Painting can be done in the following ways:
- Add dyes to the solution just before pouring the moulds. The result is a beautiful and homogeneous mixture.
- Paint the matrix from the inside. Thus, the tile will take on a natural look.
- Prepare a coloring solution and apply it to the surface of the material using a spray gun. After that, the product should be additionally coated with acrylic varnish.
Grouting
After the tile is laid on the wall, the surface of the joints is cleaned of adhesive residue and rubbed. To do this, use a special building composition. The grout is applied with a rubber spatula.
The mortar used fills the gaps between the tiles. A sponge is used to remove residue.
With it, the grout is evenly distributed along the seams.
When deciding how to lay tiles correctly, you need to pay attention to the following points:
- before you lay the tile yourself, you should check its quality and calibration;
- the material used is sorted by size to obtain even seams;
- at the stage of pre-treatment of the wall surface, do not spare the primer;
- periodically check the verticality and horizontality of the masonry;
- the adhesive composition must be applied to a dry coating.
Surface cleaning
Cleaning surfaces before tiling is very important. Unfortunately, many people, especially beginners, are not very careful about cleaning the surface on which the tiles will be laid, but in vain. After all, the quality of the facing surface is the key to an impeccable tile coating.
Before you is a photo that schematically shows the correct execution of finishing work. The primer in this case is applied to the plaster, before laying the tiles.
If the surface on which the tile is supposed to be laid is already ready for such work, then you can start laying the tile immediately. But as practice shows, such luck happens in very rare cases, and therefore you have to prepare the surface to lay the tile yourself. Wall treatment before laying tiles should be included in the mandatory repair work.
Is it possible to make tiles with your own hands
Gypsum mortar should be the consistency of thick sour cream.
Brickwork made of gypsum tiles is particularly attractive. Such a finishing material can be made with your own hands. This allows you to ensure the individuality of the cladding, save on repairs, while maintaining a high level of quality.
The tile is made from a gypsum mortar, the following ingredients are used:
- PVA glue;
- building plaster;
- pure water;
- coloring pigments (if the tile will not be painted after laying).
The components are thoroughly mixed, the consistency should resemble thick sour cream. After the mass is simply poured into silicone molds. You can buy them at any hardware store. When filling out the forms, it is necessary to ensure that there are no pores, cracks, air bubbles, as this affects the quality of the tile.
As a mold for tiles, you can use a rectangular shape resembling a brick.
Various options can be used as forms. These are polyurethane elastic molds, silicone for the manufacture of large-format tiles. Before use, such forms must be cleaned, but it makes no sense to prepare them in large quantities for interior decoration of the house, since the gypsum hardens in about 15 minutes, which means that you can make enough material for interior decoration with your own hands in a day.
After the tile is ready, you can start laying it. After the glue dries, the surface is painted, but to avoid this, various dyes can be added to the composition. This will ensure a higher quality, attractiveness of the product. In this case, there is no need for constant tinting of the surface, the color remains in the mass, does not fade, does not form chips.
markup
The next step is choosing a scheme. For walls use a variety of options:
The last two methods are difficult.If you are new to this business, it is better to glue the tiles according to the usual patterns.
After you decide, you need to mark up on the wall. Ideally, use a laser level, but you can get by with a regular tape measure. First, mark the boundaries around the perimeter, as the sizes of the sides of each rectangular area are likely to differ.
For convenience, plumb lines are used. Next, determine how to correctly lay the tiles according to the chosen pattern on the wall: draw the contours of the rows vertically and horizontally. Do not forget that here you need to take into account the distance intended for the seams.
Preparing for styling
Gypsum tiles must be laid correctly, since not only the aesthetic appearance of the decorative cladding, but also the life of the material will depend on the technology of work. The product is universal and can be mounted on plaster, concrete, brick or drywall sheets, provided that the base surface is flat and free from defects. If the walls or ceiling are covered with old finishes, on which cracks and tubercles have formed, then the old coating must be removed and washed well. Then putty is prepared, and its mixture is applied to the surface.
If the base defects are significant, then it should be carefully treated with a primer, after which a cement mortar is made, which fills all the cracks. Then the surface must be re-primed and dried. Primer treatment is needed in order to improve the adhesion between the tile and the wall. At the same time, its composition must be chosen special, containing components that prevent the appearance of fungus and mold.
Scope of application
The use of gypsum tiles in home design is limitless. Most often, it is chosen to decorate the walls in living rooms and passers-by. An interesting option is also considered a decorative brick or stone finish, which can cover the empty surface in the room, niches, as well as work walls in the kitchens. The most popular use of tiles is for fireplace cladding, they add sophistication to the structure and do a good job of insulating.
Recently, when designing rooms, pilasters and columns have been installed so that such structures harmoniously fit into the overall decor of the space; stylists recommend decorating them with gypsum tiles imitating stone or brick. This material also looks good on the kitchen ventilation ducts, it visually reduces the size of the structure and makes it a real decoration.
For wall decoration in the living room, it is important to provide for good lighting, since the “stone” decoration will look spectacular only with bright lighting from above and from the side, in addition, the use of material depends on the size and shape of the room. Dark tile colors will narrow the space, while light colors, on the contrary, will visually enlarge the room.
Therefore, when decorating the interior in living rooms, it is necessary to select decorative elements of warm colors, giving preference to red, brown and beige. If the design requires “coolness”, then individual fragments of gray or light blue gypsum tiles can be installed in the room. The decoration will also look gorgeous in the bedroom if it is done in white.
In addition, gypsum materials are also widely used in the exterior cladding of facades; they, just like clinker tiles, are characterized by strength and endurance. This type of decoration looks interesting on balconies or loggias.
Conclusion
When installation is carried out on a cement mortar, the wall is pre-moistened with water. If you are interested in the question of how to paint a gypsum tile under a brick, then after carrying out the work, a colorless varnish can be applied to its surface. This will preserve the color and extend the life of the finish. As practice shows, walls that have been finished with gypsum tiles and varnished are easier to clean.
To glue the tiles, you can use PVA glue or mastic, the latter of which allows you to adjust the location of the finish. But experts advise using ordinary glue, which provides high adhesion of materials. Do not start work if the room temperature is below +10 degrees. For cutting products, you can use an angle grinder with metal discs. It is recommended to use gypsum glue to fill the joints.
Smoothing the seams must be done 20 minutes after gluing the tiles, when the solution acquires the consistency of plasticine. As soon as the composition begins to harden, the excess mixture must be removed, otherwise it will be very difficult to do after. If you do not want the finish to move away from the surface after a while, the latter must be removed from peeling elements such as old paint or wallpaper before starting work.
It is important to exclude the presence of greasy stains on the walls. To do this, the surface can be degreased by washing well and drying after the process.
If the humidity of the wall is increased, then the solution, having been saturated with water, will not normally set.
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