Best Answers
lekha:
sea of options!
Neighbor Cat:
Lay floor slabs or use removable formwork
Paul:
if the house is brick and with a good foundation, then you can make formwork, reinforcement, pour concrete, and if the wooden or foundation is weak, then you can build a wooden floor (say, fasten the beams to the channel with nails or self-tapping screws or dowels and cover the floor and hem the ceiling), or maybe just for decorating these beams and leaving high ceilings, it’s also very beautiful (if there are enough square meters).
Alexei:
calculate the load, throw a corrugated board 75, 80 cm wide sheet on the channel, up to 12 m long. cut, rivet, 1-2 reinforcements in each rib, over the mesh. concrete M350, at least M300 with a concrete pump, on top of the corrugated board no more than 4 cm, which would cover the grid well. All your floors are ready.
La Nochka:
Your question reminded me of a joke about a conversation between 2 Armenians on the phone: -Armen, do you have such nails? - No, dear, I only have these. In order to write something about the overlap, you need to know the spans and the construction of the walls.
Archie Goodwin:
put formwork, reinforce and fill with expanded clay concrete ...
Installation of beamless solid ceilings
Beamless (solid) floors are either a solid monolithic slab or closely stacked panels. Their characteristic feature is that they simultaneously perform both bearing and enclosing functions. According to the execution technology, the overlap can be prefabricated, monolithic or combined.
Currently, among those named the most popular, especially in brick houses under construction,. For its device, two types of panels are used: solid and multi-hollow. The choice of panel depends on the bearing capacity of the walls and the width of the span.
Their advantage in comparison with a wooden floor is high strength. They are designed for a payload of more than 200 kg/m2. Such an overlap does not burn, is not afraid of dampness and practically does not need care. And their disadvantages include the fact that it is not always possible to purchase finished slabs of the required dimensions, since they are produced by factories in standard sizes. And we should not forget that when installing reinforced concrete floors, one cannot do without lifting equipment.
When installing prefabricated reinforced concrete floors between floors, the slabs must be planted on a layer of cement mortar. The support on the walls of the house (provided that the walls are at least 250 mm thick) should not be less than 100 mm. Seams between slabs are removed using cement mortar.
Beamless floor plan.
A monolithic reinforced concrete floor is a monolithic slab based on load-bearing walls, made of concrete grade 200. The thickness of such a slab ranges from 8 to 12 cm. iron reinforcement 6-12 mm thick is placed on top of the formwork between the beams and only after that is it performed.
The main advantages of this method between floors are the high quality of the concrete surface, the absence of butt joints and the ability to make such an overlap in a house of any architectural form.
It is also important that with this type of device, there is practically no need for expensive special lifting equipment. If you have the time and opportunity to install, and then remove the wooden formwork over the entire floor area, then this constructive solution will be the best among
The essence of the design of prefabricated monolithic floors is that the space between the beams is filled with hollow blocks, on top of which a layer of concrete is applied. Such an overlap has improved heat-insulating properties.In addition, the device of such an overlap significantly reduces the construction time. However, when laying such a structure, everything has to be done by hand, this process is very laborious, and it is not advisable to use it when building a house above the second floor.
The prefabricated monolithic floor is mounted as follows: the beams are laid on the walls at a distance of 60 cm. Expanded clay concrete or polystyrene concrete hollow blocks are laid on the beams (the weight of one block of expanded clay concrete is 14 kg, of polystyrene concrete is 5.5 kg). This weight allows you to stack blocks manually.
https://youtube.com/watch?v=CJJy3veQcFA
After laying the blocks, the prepared structure is actually a fixed formwork, on top of which, reinforced with a reinforcing iron mesh with cells of 100x100 mm, a layer of monolithic concrete grade 200 is laid.
Construction tools:
- saw;
- hammer;
- hacksaw for metal;
- shovel;
- trowel.
In one, moreover, limited in volume, material there is no way to fully reveal such a complex topic as the installation of interfloor ceilings, especially considering the diversity of their types. Therefore, the task was to bring together in one material the main, key moments of the construction of floors between floors from various materials, so that you can use them with the greatest benefit for yourself.
Flooring ideas on how to choose the best floor for your basement
As we said, the purpose of the basement will greatly influence the choice of flooring. If you're planning to use your basement as storage, you'll need cost-effective hardwood flooring and concrete or epoxy flooring. Carpets, tiles, or wood floors are the best option if you plan to use your basement area as additional living space. In these cases, you must ensure that you have the correct thermal insulation.
Flooring ideas - wood, laminate or cork?
Wood flooring is sure to give a finished and sophisticated look to a space. Wood has a natural look while remaining durable and warm. However, natural wood can be damaged by moisture or even rot, which means you must have a solid underfloor slab in order for the wood to be insulated.
Laminate - advantages and disadvantages.
Laminate flooring is much cheaper, easy to install and maintain. Laminate is available in a wide variety of colors and finishes and is much more water resistant than natural wood.
Cork floor - advantages and disadvantages.
Another idea for flooring is cork flooring. Cork is a natural material available from tiles or panels and is very easy to install and in addition it is very durable. Again, it can be damaged by water or moisture, so you should protect it by covering the lining with sealant.
Flooring ideas - tile, carpet or rubber flooring?
Floor tiles are one of the most practical options. They are the easiest to maintain. Ceramic or porcelain tiles, both are highly resistant to moisture, stains and wear.
Basement floor carpet.
Carpet is one of the least recommended flooring options because it absorbs moisture. It is more difficult to keep in order, as it retains stains and various traces. Carpet tiles are the best option as they can be easily replaced or removed if needed.
Rubber plugs.
Rubber flooring is most suitable for game rooms and home gyms because rubber floor tiles are very durable, non-slip and ideal for high humidity areas.
Materials on the topic of flooring: Floor creaks, 7 ways to solve the problem Convectors built into the floor video Types of warm floors video Installation of a warm electric floor video. Water heated floor video Warm floor in a bath video Floor repair.
Ideas for playing in the basement.
The wooden floor is the finished look of the basement.
What is best for the floor.
Carpet tiles are economical and easy to replace.
Basement, rubber carpet tiles, easy floor installation is offered in a huge variety of colors and finishes.
Laminated parquet.
Cork floor tiles are durable and with great aesthetics.
How to choose a floor for a basement, tips ideas for types of flooring.
Concrete floors.
Basement wood flooring.
Basement, playroom safe floor.
Basement carpeting, remodeling floor options ideas.
Why insulate the floor above the basement
- Basement floor is cold
- Mold and fungus will gradually grow on its surface and on the walls.
The appearance of such troubles leads to:
- To damage the repair
- To the accelerated destruction of the structure
- Deteriorating the health of people living in the house
When an unheated basement is planned in a residential building, thermal insulation of the floor above the basement is always necessary. Since, firstly, the walls in the cold basement are not insulated, and the temperature in the basement is negative in winter. A cold floor means uncomfortable conditions in the room, and a significant cost overrun of energy for heating. And, secondly, the moist soil in the underground throughout the year continuously gives off moisture in the form of water vapor, which saturates the wooden logs. The surface of the basement ceiling, which is not insulated and not protected from moisture, will easily transfer cold and dampness to the room, which is located above. The basement microclimate promotes the development of mold and fungus on the walls.
Therefore, floor insulation should be taken seriously: layers of steam, hydro and thermal insulation should be included in the floor construction.
As a rule, when constructing floors, wooden beams 150 mm wide are used. When installing a heater between the beams, the heat-insulating layer turns out to be heterogeneous, because every 60-100 cm, instead of a heater, a load-bearing wooden beam will be located. Depending on the step of the beams, the share of insulation in such a “pseudo-thermal-insulating” layer is from 70 to 85%. And the rest of the floor surface is nothing but heat-conducting inclusions called cold bridges. In order for a wooden beam not to be a bridge of cold, but to perform heat-saving functions, its thickness must be at least 60 cm (for example, a house in the Moscow region). It becomes obvious that even when using a wooden beam with a section of 20x20 cm, that is, a height less than necessary three times, heat losses through cold bridges will be three times higher than normalized ones!
From this we can draw 3 conclusions:
- cold bridges do not provide full insulation
- installation of insulation between wooden beams should be done only in seasonal residences (for example, summer cottages)
- insulation between the beams should be considered only as an additional to the main continuous layer, in order to increase the heat-shielding properties of the floor structure.
So how to properly insulate the floor above a cold basement so as not to pay for heat loss?
The right solution for floor insulation is the installation of a continuous thermal insulation layer, without cold bridges, which are formed when insulation is laid between wooden beams. This is possible in the case when the insulation layer will be located not between the beams, but under them or on top of them. At the same time, when laying, it must ensure the density of the joints, be strong and rigid in order to transfer all loads from the floors to the floor beams.
- withstand loads - do not shrink like fibrous insulation
- be durable - not fibrous and does not crumble like foam balls
- be energy efficient - have a minimum thermal conductivity (maximum thermal insulation)
- and, of course, to be environmentally friendly, that is, not emitting harmful substances into the room, such as phenols or styrenes
All these advantages are contained in an innovative insulation - PIR thermal insulation boards based on polyisocyanurate foam. Polyisocyanurate foam, despite its "long" name, is a type of polyurethane with significantly improved thermal conductivity and fire resistance characteristics.
To insulate the floors above the cold basement, PIRRO PIR boards with a thickness of 30, 50 and 100 mm are used. The slabs have "quarter" and "thorn-groove" profiles on all sides, which provide a tight joint during laying and the absence of cold bridges.
PIR board PIRRO is a thermal insulation board made of rigid polyisocyanurate (PIR) lined with alumina laminate. Foil and aluminum laminate linings play the role of a diffusion-tight coating that provides vapor and air tightness and stability of the thermal characteristics of the material for the entire service life
