Requirements for the design of the chimney
Requirements for the design of chimneys are determined by SNiP.
Primary requirements:
- channel height should not be less than 5 m;
- the height of the pipe above the roof is at least 1 m for a flat roof;
- the height of the pipe with a pitched roof is determined depending on the ridge (at a distance from the ridge to the head (horizontally) of 1.5 m - at least 0.5 mm; at a distance of 1.5 m to 3 m - flush with the ridge; at a distance more than 3 m - the angle between the horizontal and the line passing through the top of the pipe and the ridge should not exceed 10 °);
- the length of the horizontal hog should not exceed 1 m;
- the sum of projections on the horizontal of horizontal and inclined sections should not exceed 2 m, while the length of the vertical section increases by the same length.
Conclusion
We hope, our dear reader, that this article will help you understand the operation of modern chimneys, choose the optimal design of the smoke exhaust system for your home, and protect equipment from aggressive condensate. Subscribe to our newsletter - and you will not miss new useful information about construction and repairs and will be able to discuss it with friends on social networks.
Chimney installation technology
There are several connection methods. Among them are the following:
- bayonet;
- flanged;
- cold bridge;
- "by condensate";
- "by smoke".
Installation of the pipe "through the smoke" is carried out to prevent the ingress of carbon monoxide into the dwelling.
The "condensate" assembly is used to form a liquid flowing down the pipe.
Flange connection assumes free passage of smoke. The pull helps him get out quickly. However, if the joints were not sealed very carefully, condensate may accidentally get inside, which is fraught with damage to the internal insulation.
With bayonet assembly, the inner tube is inserted into the lowest socket, which completely eliminates the possibility of liquid getting inside the rolled metal product.
Unfortunately, even with a very small gap, smoke is quickly expelled to the outside. What would be the best choice? The appearance of gas harms the human body, condensate reduces the life of the smoke channel.
In this situation, reliable sealing of gaps and joints is considered the only way out.
Getting rid of condensate
Elimination of condensate in the chimney is a common occurrence. Every owner of a fireplace or stove has to deal with this from time to time.
No matter what the system is made of, small or large amounts of condensate will still form. Most of all, non-standard devices suffer from such a scourge.
If you are concerned about the question of how to get rid of condensate in the chimney, then there are many ways. You can purchase and install a special tap. This is a convenient way to clean the chimney. It will only be necessary to clean the collection from accumulated waste.
If an additional device is not installed, then other methods will have to be used.
- Use only proven firewood, well dried. Firewood is prepared in advance, chopped. Typically, the preparation of such fuel takes about two years.
- Eliminate air suction. The hole must be closed completely or completely eliminated. Sometimes cracks are used as suction, they should be covered up.
- Pipes should be insulated. This is a good way to protect your chimney from harmful deposits. The pipe will always be warm and, therefore, less condensate will settle.
- Try your best to balance the temperature. If the outgoing gases have a temperature of at least 100 degrees, then the amount of condensate will be minimal. Achieved by burning a large amount of firewood. Sometimes the system is equipped with a special channel.
Additionally, once again carefully study the entire structure, identify any flaws, understand why the chimney condenses. Also check any installed options. Perhaps they, while performing one function well, but at the same time act negatively on another. For example, they have a bad effect on the formation of condensate.
There is the best way to solve this problem. This is the installation of a special stainless acid-resistant steel channel. Mounting it is very easy. It will perfectly save the entire system, and improve its performance. You should also add a diverter in addition to the channel. This option will help to forget about the problem for a long time.
Don't forget to clean your pipes. It takes a little time for this work, and the chimney will last a long time and uninterruptedly.
How it all works
As a rule, the installation of an exhaust pipe in a private house, as well as a ventilation system, is planned at the design stage of the building. Meanwhile, if you find that not everything is in order with such communications in the purchased house, you should not panic - everything can be fixed. To complete the picture in your head, let's get acquainted with all types of air exchange present in the house.
So, systems of this type are:
- natural;
- supply;
- supply and exhaust.
The layout of the exhaust pipes in the house
In the current buildings, replete with plastic windows, doors and artificial materials, alas, natural ventilation does not work well. Plastic blocks air circulation. In addition, the lack of temperature fluctuations also reduces the effectiveness of natural ventilation, especially in the summer. Meanwhile, in apartment buildings, natural ventilation works better, but we are talking about mansions, and we will return to them.
In houses with an area of \u200b\u200bnot exceeding 300 m², it is enough to install a supply system; for owners of large mansions, there is only one way out - to install a supply and exhaust system. Communications should not only remove air, but also pump it.
Proper ventilation design is the key to comfort in the house
The exhaust pipe on the roof becomes visible, while its lower part can be hidden from view, although it is always present in the kitchen, in the boiler room, and, possibly, in other rooms. By the way, you can easily learn to distinguish between these designs, because the height of the chimney chimney above the roof is always less than its ventilation "sister". There is such a rule: the shorter the chimney ventilation pipe, the less condensate accumulates in the structure. Although, of course, this reason for the appearance of "poisonous" drops is not the only one.
Causes of condensation
Residents of apartment buildings often encounter such a phenomenon as a “sweating pipe” with cold water. The causes of occurrence may be different. The nature of the appearance of water droplets on the pipes in the bathroom and in the toilet is slightly different. In a combined bathroom, the main reasons are:
- insufficient ventilation of the room;
- continuous toilet cistern set;
- malfunction of the mixer (passes the valve that shuts off cold water);
- a large difference in the temperature of water and ambient air in the room;
- high humidity or leakage from the neighbors from above.
The bathroom should be well ventilated, air circulation allows you to remove unwanted moisture. With the continuous operation of the filling system of the tank, moisture condenses not only on the riser, but also on the wiring. A faucet dripping all the time causes a similar problem.
Each of the reasons can independently cause “fogging” of the riser or cold water distribution pipes, but, as a rule, the cause is precisely the combination of several points.
What to do if you detect fogging on the pipes
If you notice in the bathroom that the riser or other pipes related to the cold water supply are covered with small drops of water, then a series of actions should be taken to find out the cause. Our algorithm will help you:
- To begin with, you will have to inspect the ventilation grill and check the entire system for operability. To do this, you need to bring a sheet of paper to the grate and slightly open the window. If the paper sticks to the hole, then the ventilation is working correctly, otherwise it is necessary to identify the causes of the malfunction in the operation of the entire exhaust system. If the bathroom is equipped with a forced electric fan, you need to start it and observe the pipe. If the drops remain and do not dry out, then the reason is different.
- Next, we head to the shut-off valves, mixers and the drain system of the tank. Failures in the operation of these segments can be seen with the naked eye. Sometimes the solution to the problem is to fix the leak. It is necessary to repair or replace the faucets and adjust the float in the toilet bowl so that the water does not leak on its own.
- The problem may not be in your apartment, but on the riser from above. Here you will have to go through the neighbors and check for a leak in the central cold water pipe.
Installing new windows or additional heating systems necessarily affects the temperature in the room. If the difference between the temperature of the water in the pipe and the air in the room is more than 17 ° C, then condensation will certainly appear.
Preventive measures
To increase the resistance of the chimney body to the aggressive effects of condensate, we will have to take the following steps:
- Install a channel made of chemically resistant material into the air duct. Usually, asbestos-cement pipes or brick chimneys are lined with stainless steel inserts - high-alloy steel, resistant to aggressive chemically active substances.
- Install at the point of intersection of the horizontal channel (from the furnace) and the vertical section (towards the street) a condensate collector for the chimney - a steel cup located below the interface unit.
As a result, we will not stop the formation of condensate, but we will protect the main structural material of the chimney from aggressive substances that destroy the integrity of the channel. The condensate will drain through the pipes into a collection tank, which is emptied as needed. Therefore, this technique is one of the most effective means of dealing with condensate - it eliminates the consequences without affecting the process of formation of chemically active substances.
Of course, the initial assembly of the chimney for condensate, as a source of threat to the integrity of the channel, allows you to achieve significantly better results: after all, the insert-sleeve reduces draft by narrowing the cross section of the duct. However, the installation of an acid-resistant sleeve and a condensate trap is much cheaper than dismantling the old channel and building a new chimney.
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How to get rid of condensation in the toilet
The situation with the bathroom in the toilet is similar, but it is worth considering that the second option is characterized by the presence of a large number of pipes. If you are going to make a sewerage system in a private house, then it is better to immediately separate the cold water riser from the hot one, or pipe insulation is needed. There may be regular estrus from the tank in the toilet.
It should be borne in mind that all materials have their own indicator of the ability to conduct heat. But this fact does not force you to carry out a complete replacement of the pipeline, for example, from cast iron to PVC. In order to remedy the situation, there are many options. We will talk about them and talk further in the article.
Leak Repair Methods
We have already found out the reasons for the formation of condensate in the toilet and in the bathroom. Now let's find out how to solve problems with the formation of leaks. The first thing to do is to find the location of the water flow in the system.Its formation can take place:
- If the faucet and mixer has a malfunction. In such a situation, you will observe the constant dripping of water from the taps.
- In the event of a break in the pipeline;
- Fitting wear.
The biggest difficulty in determining is the pipeline rupture and the unsuitability of the fittings. To identify a malfunction, you need to partially disassemble the box that closes the pipes. To facilitate the process, it is better to seek the help of professionals. Specialists can easily determine the problem with the help of thermal imagers - special equipment. It is worth noting that both options require cash investments. When you find a leak, you can do the following repair actions:
- The gasket needs to be changed. A set of tools for work can be bought at any specialized store. To make a purchase, you need to know information about the brand and manufacturers of the faucet. This work can be done by hand.
- If nothing has changed after the repair procedure, then it is necessary to replace the mixer.
In the event that the pipeline of the sewer system in the house is leaking, the following measures can be taken:
- Replace the section of the system with problems. To complete the work, you need to cut a segment of the leaking pipe and mount a new part. In most cases, if there is a pipeline made of metal, the help of specialized equipment is useful. To do this, you can order a car from a specialized company.
- Install a plug on the pipe in the place where there is a water leak. It is worth noting that this method is less effective, so it should not be used.
Replacing the fittings on the pipeline is not difficult. To do this, remove the unusable part and replace it with a new one. Before starting such work, it is necessary to cut off the supply of water to the house.
Causes
Where does the condensate come from?
The answer to this question contains a school physics course.
Along with the concept of absolute humidity (the so-called content of water vapor in a cubic meter of air expressed in grams), there is relative humidity. It is measured as a percentage and allows you to evaluate the ratio of the current amount of water vapor to the maximum theoretically possible.
Why such difficulties? The fact is that the ability of air to hold the hearth in the form of steam changes with changes in temperature. It is relative humidity that affects a person's perception of the atmosphere as dry or humid: with absolutely the same amount of water per cubic meter of air at +10, the air will be perceived as damp, and at +50 - as overdried.
What happens to water vapor when the air is suddenly cooled? Anything that exceeds 100% absolute humidity at a given temperature will fall out as dew—fine droplets. It is this process that we observe in the cellar or basement: water begins to condense on the surface, which is much colder than the surrounding air.
So, for moisture condensation, two factors must be present:
- A surface whose temperature is significantly lower than that of the bulk of the air in the room.
- Sufficiently high humidity of this very mass of air.
Why there is condensation in the cellar - we seem to have figured it out. In outline.
However, the study of thematic forums will bring us an unexpected discovery: moisture condensation in cellars and cellars occurs in very different ways.
- On different surfaces. Either the floor and walls of the basement, or the ceiling are damp.
- At different times of the year. If in the off-season in the cellar it is usually dry for everyone, then there is confusion with summer and winter: for some, condensation appears at the peak of the summer heat, for others, on the contrary, in severe frosts.
Not at all. Simple logic will help resolve the contradiction.
Moisture condenses on the colder surface, remember?
Below the freezing level, the soil temperature is constant and keeps at + 8-12 C.That is why, in fact, the crop can be stored in the cellar longer than in the house or barn: the walls and floor in it will have the temperature of the soil.
Now imagine that air with a temperature of + 25-30 degrees is supplied to the room. Ventilation from the street. Guess what happens to the moisture as the airflow cools?
Of course. She will settle on the cold floor and walls.
Why can the ceiling be damp?
Yes, because in the cellar, above which there is no heated room, in winter the ceiling will be much colder than the air inside. Excess moisture will condense already on it.
Causes of condensation
Condensate is a kind of tarry liquid, which is obtained as a result of water and ejected oxides. The combination of these factors under the influence of cold temperatures is formed into condensate, which from time to time fills the walls of the pipe. To combat this disease, a chimney steam trap is often used, which does its job well. Often the cause of this precipitate is a temperature difference, or precipitation if the outlet is not blocked.
In addition, the release of water vapor, coupled with carbon dioxide during the combustion period, as well as the moisture released during combustion, together with the gases, go outside. However, it often happens that the temperature of the walls is somewhat below the dew point temperature, as a result of which the resulting resin settles on these same walls.
Of course, if there is a condensate drain from the chimney, then this misfortune is not terrible, but more often than not, no devices are found. In addition, other causes of deposits can often be found, including: (See also: How to increase chimney draft)
- Wet fuel, worse if completely damp;
- The temperature of the escaping vapors is not high enough;
- High difference between external and internal temperatures;
- unheated pipes;
- Clogged pipes, which leads to burning of the outlet channel;
- Fuel does not burn completely;
- Traction problems;
- Violations in the design of the device.
Dry fuel is the key to ensuring normal traction, as well as the absence of breaking one’s head over the question “how to eliminate condensate in the chimney?”. Dry wood allows you to quickly heat up the device, as a result of which no deposits will form on the inner surface of the pipe.
Crude fuel cannot provide as much heat when burned, while emitting copious amounts of moist vapors, which, in turn, tend to get on the walls and remain there as condensate. At the same time, it is better to approach the choice of fuel with all seriousness, since resinous firewood, no matter how dried they are, will contribute to the formation of resinous deposits on the pipe walls. Therefore, the best fuel for stoves and fireplaces is chopped wood with a high level of drying and with the lowest content of any resins.
Very often, the chimney for condensing gas boilers suffers from an abundance of condensate, which tends to destroy its structure. In this case, it is simply necessary to resort to special devices, such as a drain or a collector, otherwise problems with the chimney cannot be avoided, and cleaning will have to be done so often that it will become almost a permanent occupation. (See also: How to build a sandwich chimney)
Consequences of the problem
In warm, humid weather, condensation forms on the plumbing in the basement when we turn on the cold water. But excessive condensation can lead to dripping water, which has a number of negative consequences:
- It provokes the growth of mold, fungus, the removal of which requires serious costs.
- The worst problems occur on pipes made of metal, such as copper, galvanized steel. The accumulation of water on the surface can lead to the destruction of equipment located directly under the water supply.
- The walls are damp.
Copper oxidation
Damp insulation can be compared to wet wool on a frosty day. Not only does it not protect equipment from energy loss, but it can lead to corrosion, which often leads to flooding of equipment and premises.
Condensation is the #1 technical enemy of insulation. Introducing water vapor into the insulation material from the outside is also harmful. In both cases, this indicates that the isolation has failed. To make matters worse, condensation in the insulation is initially invisible. Over time, this can lead to dangerous consequences: water dripping from walls or ceilings. If moisture penetrates the insulating material, its effectiveness rapidly decreases.
Factors affecting the formation of condensate
The process of formation of condensate in the chimney channel depends on several factors:
- Humidity of the fuel used by the heating system. Even seemingly dry firewood contains moisture, which turns into steam when burned. Peat, coal and other combustible materials have a certain percentage of moisture content. Natural gas, burning in a gas boiler, also releases a large amount of water vapor. There is no absolutely dry fuel, but poorly dried or damp material increases the condensation process.
- Traction level. The better the draft, the faster steam is removed and less moisture settles on the pipe walls. It simply does not have time to mix with other combustion products. If the draft is bad, a vicious circle is obtained: condensate accumulates in the chimney, contributing to clogging and further worsening the circulation of gases.
- The temperature of the air in the pipe and the gases leaving the heater. The first time after kindling, smoke moves along an unheated channel, also having a low temperature. It is at the start that the greatest condensation occurs. Therefore, systems that operate constantly, without regular shutdowns, are least susceptible to condensation.
- Temperature and humidity of the environment. In the cold season, due to the temperature difference inside the chimney and outside, as well as increased air humidity, condensate forms more actively on the outer and end parts of the pipe.
- The material from which the chimney is made. Brick and asbestos cement prevent the dripping of moisture drops and absorb the resulting acids. Metal pipes can be prone to corrosion and rust. Chimneys made of ceramic blocks or stainless steel sections prevent chemically aggressive compounds from catching on a smooth surface. The smoother, smoother the inner surface and the lower the moisture absorption capacity of the pipe material, the less condensate is formed in it.
- Integrity of the chimney structure. In case of violation of the tightness of the pipe, the appearance of damage on its inner surface, the draft deteriorates, the channel becomes clogged faster, moisture from the outside can get inside. All this leads to increased steam condensation and deterioration of the chimney.
Condensation in the bathroom on cold water pipes
Before starting repair measures, it is important to determine exactly the cause of the problem, which usually consists of the following:
- When the riser pipe gets wet, the whole thing is usually the flow of the neighbors from above.
- If a pipe gets wet near a plumbing fixture, then the reason lies in a faulty faucet.
- If ventilation problems are found, work will need to be done to eliminate blockages blocking the hood.
If condensation appears in the bathroom on the pipes: what to do in such cases? Listing ways to eliminate condensate, one cannot help but recall thermal insulation, which quite effectively helps in this problem.
Solutions to the problem
The main idea of all the methods listed below is the thermal insulation of the cold water pipeline to reduce the intensity of exposure to too warm air.
Painting pipes with heat-insulating paint. This is a rather expensive, but at the same time an effective way to solve the problem.Here you should be patient, because to achieve the desired effect, you will have to paint the pipe at least 5-6 times. Each previous coat of paint must be well dried and only then apply the next one. In this case, the room will have to be forcibly ventilated - an ordinary fan is suitable for this.
Pipe insulation with foam insulation pads. Linings are soft pipes with a longitudinal section. They are put on a dry pipe like a cover, and the edges are then glued together.
To achieve the desired effect, it is very important that the size of the lining ideally matches the diameter of the pipe. if it turns out to be more, then there will be no effect at all, and if it is less, then you will not be able to glue the edges of the lining
You can combine the two previous methods: first paint the pipe, dry the paint and put on linings on it, which can also be painted on top with heat-insulating paint.
By putting a larger plastic pipe on the pipe and filling the space with mounting foam, you can also achieve good results. But here it is important that the foam completely and evenly fill the space between the pipes, otherwise the method will not work.
Self-creation of thermal insulation on the surface of the pipe. This is an inexpensive, but troublesome way, which is a completely reliable solution to the problem.
To create it, you need to stock up on the following materials:
- epoxy putty;
- simple cotton fabric (for example, old sheets);
- strong thread or thin twine;
- putty knife;
- sandpaper;
- means for cleaning pipes from rust;
- acetone or other suitable substance for degreasing the pipe surface.
The fabric must be cut into strips about 10 cm wide and wound into rolls. You can also use medical bandages of a suitable width.
Next, we proceed as follows:
- We clean the pipe from paint and carefully degrease its surface.
- Next, the pipe is treated with an anti-rust agent.
- After drying the pipe, a layer of epoxy putty must be applied to it and immediately quickly wrapped with a cloth from the bottom up. In this case, the turns of the fabric should overlap each other and be impregnated with putty. The fabric is then secured with thread.
- After the first layer has dried, several more are applied in the same way.
- At the end of the work, I again coat the pipe with putty on top.
After the insulation is completely dry, it can be sanded and painted with paint of a suitable color.
If it is not possible to eliminate the problem by eliminating leaks in the valves of plumbing fixtures and good ventilation, it is better to immediately resort to thermal insulation.
Many are interested in how to eliminate condensate on a cold water pipe. Because this problem is encountered very often.
At first glance, wet pipes for supplying cold water are a source of dampness in a kitchen or bathroom. Also, this phenomenon can provoke the appearance of mold.
These factors will shorten the period between system repairs in a wet room. Why condensation occurs, and how to resist it, will be discussed further.
Moist air helps a lot. For these reasons, before installing cold water pipes, it is recommended to create a thermal insulation layer that will prevent any temperature difference on the top of the pipe.
This problem also occurs when the pipes for cold and hot water are located close together.
With such a problem in the bathroom or bathroom, it is recommended at the very beginning to check the functioning of the ventilation.
For a long time, it could become clogged. Malfunctions in the ventilation network are clearly visible when the windows are closed, if there are plastic windows in the room. This can be checked very easily.
And one more feature in the bathroom is the layout of pipes with cold and hot water.They are often carried out in close proximity, without laying thermal insulation.
It is not surprising that in the place where water is supplied to the plumbing, the pipes begin to “cry”. On open wiring, it is easier to eliminate condensate.
But, in a situation where the network is hidden in the wall, the solution of the issue entails more complex work. This will include repair measures, because the fastest way is to change the geometry of the structure.
Considering the reasons for the condensate of a water pipe with cold water in a bathroom or bathroom, it should be noted that in general the situation is similar to the one described above, but one “BUT” arises.
What to do in case of misted pipes
The algorithm is very simple - you need to find the cause and eliminate it:
- You can start by checking the drain system of the tank and stopcocks. To do this, you have to watch them. Sometimes people leaving the bathroom do not notice that the faucet is dripping, and the toilet valve periodically opens due to a decrease in the float level due to a small leak from the tank.
- Check the operation of the ventilation with a piece of paper or by holding a lit match to the ventilation grille. If the piece of paper falls and the match burns evenly, then the ventilation is not working.
- If you did not find any malfunctions in your apartment, then you will have to visit the neighbors from above and find out from them if they have encountered the same problem. A fault on any floor above results in a constant circulation of cold water in the pipe, which significantly reduces its temperature.
- If you have forced ventilation in the bathroom and toilet, then you should check the effectiveness of its operation.
- If everything is in order, but the pipes are “crying”, then the reason for this is that the temperature difference between the surface of the pipe and the surrounding air exceeds 17 degrees, and special methods will have to be used to solve the problem.
The consequences of high humidity
Condensation is facilitated by high ambient humidity
The main reason that contributes to condensation is the increased humidity of the environment. That is why this process is typical for toilets and bathrooms, basements, boiler rooms, laundries, etc.
Surfaces damaged by condensation have an ugly appearance. In addition, its appearance carries other dangers. One of them is corrosion, which eventually destroys metal structures. And yet, constant humidity is very fond of mold fungus, which causes allergic and respiratory diseases. Both cannot be called something pleasant and useful.
What is condensate
Whatever type of fuel you use, you are burning hydrocarbons. Coal, coke, firewood, fuel oil, gas, pellets - everything consists of hydrogen and carbon with small impurities of sulfur and some other chemical elements. Any fuel also contains a small amount of water - it is impossible to completely remove it. During combustion, they are oxidized by atmospheric oxygen and the output is water, carbon dioxide, and other oxides.
Sulfur oxides react with water at high temperatures and form very aggressive acids (sulphuric, sulphurous, etc.), which also enter the condensate. A few other acids are also formed: hydrochloric, nitric.