How to make a drain in the country with your own hands from a barrel

The use of septic tanks from barrels

It is advisable to build a septic tank in the country with your own hands from barrels in the following cases:

as a temporary structure at the stage of building a house before the sewer system is organized,
with a minimum number of drains, typical for periodic visits to a suburban area without permanent residence.

Such requirements are due to the small volume of tanks. The capacity of large barrels is usually 250 liters.
therefore, the volume of the septic tank from the three tanks will be 750 liters. At the same time, according to the conditions of sanitary standards, the septic tank must contain three daily "portions".

It is advisable to build a septic tank from plastic barrels with your own hands also as a separate treatment plant, for example, for shower or bath
.

The advantages of such structures are:

low cost (used containers are often used),
simplicity of device and installation,
less excavation due to the small volume of the tanks.

Installation of a septic tank

Do-it-yourself sewerage from barrels requires certain preparatory work before installation. We will consider the option of making a septic tank from three barrels, but it remains the same for a septic tank from two tanks.

Technological holes are made in each barrel.

In each of their barrels, in addition, holes are made at the upper end (or lids, which are often supplied with tanks for ease of cleaning) for ventilation pipes.

In each tank, the inlet is located 10 cm above the outlet.

The pit for the septic tank breaks out of the barrels in such a way that when installed on each side of any tank there is a gap of 25 cm. The bottom of the pit is covered with rubble or a sand cushion is arranged.

For pouring the foundation, a stepped formwork is installed

When placing barrels with a successive decrease in level (each is 10 cm below the previous one), the volume of the tanks will be fully used, which is very important with a small capacity of this type of septic tanks. If the removal of the purified liquid is provided through the bottom filter of the third barrel, the last tank is installed directly on the rubble, without a foundation.

After pouring the foundation at the stage of solidification of the solution, rings or hooks are installed in it, to which clamps will cling to fix the containers

Just in case, it is better to “anchor” not only plastic, but also iron tanks.

If the drainage will be carried out through the filtration field, then trenches for laying corrugated pipes can be dug at this stage.

After the foundation has gained strength, you can begin to install and fasten the tanks, install pipes and seal the joints at their entrance. Experts recommend not using silicone for these purposes, preferring other types of sealants, such as epoxy.

The trenches of the filtration field are covered with geotextile, and after laying the perforated pipes, the material is wrapped with overlapping edges.

A fully assembled septic tank from barrels is covered with soil. It is better to fill plastic containers with water at this time to avoid deformation.
In the process of backfilling, the soil is periodically gently tamped.

Do-it-yourself system installation in a private house

After the cesspool is placed on the site, you can start digging a trench to the desired depth. In the central part of Russia it is 2-2.5 meters, in the northern regions - a meter more, and in the southern regions 1-1.5 meters. They begin to dig a trench from the place of reception of sewage to the top, to the house.

Now, a fine sand and gravel mixture, a “pillow”, is poured at the bottom of the pit along the entire length. It is better to immediately “shoot through” the slope at least a little and level the sand.

The next step will be the laying of the pipeline itself. At the beginning, the end is inserted into the well so that the socket looks towards the house. It is advisable to immediately fix the pipe in the hole with mortar or foam. Then they are connected in series with an idle end into a socket. To simplify the process, the rubber bands are lubricated with engine oil or a special lubricant.

Each pipe is measured to match the desired slope. This can be done with a building level, but it is better to take a level.

After assembling the outer line, the line is aligned along the entire length so that the entire straight section is visible through the hole.

Now the thread is sprinkled with sand and the edges are carefully knocked down. Then the so-called protective layer of the same sand is poured.

Depending on the length of the outer section of the system, a fan riser is pulled to the surface every 8-10 meters. To do this, a connecting tee is inserted with the socket up, and a pipe of the same diameter is inserted into it. You need to mount the fan riser at the level of backfilling the soil so that it sticks out of the ground a little.

As soon as the route is laid, it's time to bring the system into the house. Often they dig a hole right under the foundation of the cottage and make a hole in the floor of the room where there will be a bathroom or kitchen. This is the most practical way to wind a pipe.

No sleeves should be inserted between the ceiling, foundation or floor. After installation, the hole must be well and tightly closed to avoid opening the joints during operation.

If it is not possible to dig a ditch of the required depth, the drain must be thermally insulated. Insulation of external sewerage is carried out using the following materials:

Mineral wool.
Fiberglass fabric.
Styrofoam shell.
Large sawdust and roofing material.

The method of thermal insulation for all materials is almost the same. You do not need to wrap the line completely, just put the insulation on top, and you can pour a protective layer. However, this does not apply to the polystyrene shell, since it consists of two half-cylinders, which are put on the entire pipe and only then joined together in trenches.

Instructions on how to drain water

1. We will need a piece of hose 2-3 meters long, the most affordable will be a corrugated plastic hose. The hose must be without damage to the walls and the absence of plugs from foreign objects and ice in it.

2. Attach a load to one end of the hose with your own hands so that the hose, when immersed in the barrel, is closer to the bottom of the barrel.

3. We cut a hole in the ice of the barrel with an ax. The end of the hose with the load must pass through the hole.

4. Lower the hose into the hole. There is a secret here. We lower almost the entire hose under water and observe the appearance of water at the level of the hole in the hose. then with a sharp movement we pull the hose and immediately lower it below the water level - water will begin to flow through the resulting siphon. If your thumb size allows, you can plug the end of the hose and work slower. The main thing is not to wet your hands at -15 ° C.

5. We lower the hose below the bottom of the barrel and wait for the water to drain. Then you can either close the barrel from above or overturn. A small amount of remaining water will not damage the barrel.

6. If several drums need to be drained, the hose should be moved immediately to the next drum to avoid ice blockage. It was the rapidly forming ice that made it difficult to fill the hose in the video with water.

This method of draining water is a full-fledged life hack and is also suitable for barrels of a smaller volume, because when a metal barrel with water is overturned, the latter can be deformed, and the plastic barrel may crack. There is another beneficial effect. If your area is restless, then a barrel of ice along the walls and an ice plug becomes a very difficult object to move before a strong thaw.

Content

The issue of draining for a shower in the country is solved by many in “old-fashioned ways”.Someone drains the water under garden plantings, others drain the drain into the sewer, and some do not care about this problem at all, believing that it is enough to install a grate under the shower frame, and then all the waste water will seep into the ground. How to make a drain from a country shower competently and efficiently?

The simplest drainage sewer for a summer residence.

Simple drainage sewer for a summer residence

It is not enough to bring water into the house, after use it needs to be put somewhere. It’s hard to take out buckets, and somehow it’s pointless: water comes into the house by itself, and then it is taken out on foot. At least elementary sewerage is needed for a house or a summer residence. The option of simply taking the pipe out of the house and draining the water to the ground or a small hole will not suit everyone. It doesn't look very good, and an unpleasant smell from this puddle or pit is almost guaranteed. What to do? So, we will need: an old metal or plastic barrel, a certain amount of sewer pipes (at least 6 meters, preferably PVC 110mm), a tee, a branch, about 0.5 cubic meters of medium fraction crushed stone, a shovel and a few hours of our precious time. We choose a place for our drainage well. Preferably, no closer than 5 meters from the house, no closer than 20-25 meters from a well or well and downstream of them downstream of groundwater. We dig a hole with a diameter greater than the diameter of the barrel by at least 0.5 m (diameter of a standard barrel is 0.6 m, height 0.9 m, volume 0.2 cubic meters) and a depth of about 1.5 m (preferably deeper). We make holes in the walls of the barrel, if metal, then with a grinder, if plastic, then with a hacksaw for wood with a small tooth. We make a hole for the incoming sewer pipe in the wall, not far from the bottom of the barrel. At the bottom of the pit we fall asleep at least 20 cm of gravel and put the barrel upside down, orienting the hole under the pipe towards the house. Now you need to dig a trench under the sewer pipe, leading it to the place you need. The pipe must be laid with a slope of at least 3 mm per meter towards the barrel. It can be brought into the house either under the foundation, or through a hole in it. There is no need to insulate the pipe, the water flowing through it will warm it perfectly. Not far from the barrel, we put a tee with a small piece of pipe coming out above the ground to circulate air inside the barrel and let air out of the sewer when it is filled from the house (so that the air from the barrel does not go into your house). We lead the pipe into the barrel through the hole made for this. We fill the gap between the barrel and the wall of the pit with gravel to the entire height of the barrel. At the bottom of the barrel, it is advisable to put some non-rotting material (a piece of old slate is perfect). We fill both the trench and the pit with soil, carefully tamping it down. We make a hole in the floor or wall of the house, finally leading the sewer into the house. Further at your discretion. On a piece of pipe sticking out of the ground near a buried barrel, you can put on a plastic fungus, which is difficult, but can be found in stores. And now the nuances. This is an exclusively drainage sewer for the house, it will not cope with fecal effluents, it cannot be cleaned or serviced in any way, and it is not intended for this. This sewer can be used for drains from the kitchen or from the bath. The same device has drainage wells from a septic tank. The microclimate for bacteria that process wastewater depends on the depth of the pit. Ideally, the depth of the pit should be: the depth of soil freezing + the height of the barrel + the height of the crushed stone cushion (for the Leningrad region: 1.2m + 0.9m + 0.2m = 2.3m). But digging so deep is hard and not necessary. Drains also heat the barrel.

A simple drainage sewer for a summer residence with a drain

If the soil at the installation site of the sewer is clayey, and the water from the barrel leaves slowly, then the sewer for the house can be slightly improved. To do this, you need to lay another sewer, and preferably a drainage pipe.This pipe may lead water to a drainage ditch at the boundary of the site, or it may not lead anywhere, ending in a dead end. The task of this pipe is to remove excess water from the barrel, thus increasing the area of water absorption into the soil (irrigation area). The pipe is laid in a trench on a crushed stone pillow and is also covered with crushed stone, and then with soil. The depth of the trench is greater than that of the supply pipe, and the slope is directed away from the barrel. Naturally, the sewer pipe will have to be spoiled with a certain number of holes in the lower part to improve the flow of water, making it look like a drainage pipe. This is not required if the pipe is led into a drainage ditch.

You may be interested in similar articles:

What to do if the sewer freezes.To be honest, I'm a little surprised that someone's sewer can freeze. Sewer pipes, in principle, cannot freeze there.

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How to equip a water drain in the country

In the place where the construction of the future shower is planned, it is necessary to dig a small depression, line it with plastic wrap or roofing material.

Drainage of water in the country for a summer shower

It is better to concrete the recess under the shower, forming a kind of waterproof pallet so that the ground under the summer shower does not silt. Water, removing labor sweat and dust from the skin and hair, also washes away grease. These wastes, gradually settling on the soil surface, lead to its silting. Eventually, the soil will no longer allow the water used in the shower to pass through, and an unpleasant puddle will begin to appear on the floor of the shower stall.

From the pallet, water goes into the gutter, so the pallet should be arranged at a slope. In addition, the slope must also have a drainage gutter. To drain water some distance from the summer shower, you need to dig a trench under the drain pipe. For unimpeded drainage of water in the country, it is necessary to lay a pipe so that it has a certain slope towards the sewage pit.

Water drain in the country for the kitchen

To drain the water in the country house, you need to connect a corrugation to the kitchen sink and create a water valve by bending the corrugation in an N shape so that water always remains in it. Then connect the corrugation with a plastic pipe with a diameter of 50 mm and bring it outside the house.

By the way, the sink in the kitchen must be equipped with a grate so that large food waste does not fall into the drain pipe. An intermediate siphon must be installed on the line between the kitchen and the drainage tank. so that all foreign particles that are heavier than water settle on its bottom, and do not fall into the container.

The siphon should be equipped with an inspection window so that the lid can be unscrewed and water with solid particles can be drained into a bucket. This will reduce the ingress of organic matter and sand into the drainage tank. In this case, the volume of the barrel will last for a longer time, the barrel will last longer, and otherwise the processes of decay will lead to its silting.

Then you need to take a metal barrel; if it is closed from two ends, then on the one hand it is necessary to cut the bottom with a chisel and a hammer. With the open end down, place the barrel in a pit on a previously poured pillow of gravel and small gravel. The prepared pit must be larger than the height of the barrel. From the other end of the barrel, you have to make one hole for the pipe, connect the barrel and the pipe taken out of the kitchen with a tee with flanges. All joints: pipes with a barrel, as well as with a drain pipe from the sink - must be sealed.

It is possible, for better resorption of the drain of water in the country, to additionally dig drainage trenches on the sides of the barrel as wide as it is, about 1.5–2 m long. Trenches should be filled with gravel, large boulders. From above, cover the trenches and the barrel with a layer of earth from 30 to 100 cm thick, flush with the surface of the site and cover it with turf. From above, you can plant flowers, grass and a couple of birches - they love water. This design will last approximately 7-10 years.

How to properly sewer with a high level of groundwater

If, when digging a trench, water has already appeared in the upper parts, you still have to dig the desired depth.

If the sewerage is collected correctly, groundwater will not affect further work. So that when laying pipes, water does not interfere, the trench needs to be dug a little wider and along its very bottom, from the edge along the entire length, dig a recess of 20–30 centimeters. Liquid will accumulate in this groove, and the moat will remain dry.

Since the cesspool, VOC, septic tank and drain system are sealed, the high water table should not affect the cleaning process. However, if a VOC or a septic tank is installed in the country house, a discharge pipe or a dry well is required, through which water can penetrate back into the septic tank. To avoid this, a check valve is installed on the discharge pipe.

Another solution to this problem is to bring the waste pipe from the septic tank on top into the nearest ravine, since the water comes out almost clean and this will not harm the environment.

Connecting the pipeline is a laborious process, you will need:

fittings, tees and couplings;
grinder to cut off some sections;
building level;
perforator and screwdriver;
special brackets - to fix pipes.

In order to independently bring the drainage system to the sink, bathtub or shower, you will need a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm, for a toilet bowl the size will be 100 mm. If there is a bathroom on both the first and second floors, then a hundred square meters are stretched upstairs, regardless of what devices will be there.

Rules for choosing the volume and installation location of septic tanks

The daily rate of water consumption is 200 liters per person, and the septic tank must contain drains. Collected within 72 hours or 3 days. Thus, subject to permanent residence, a three-chamber septic tank from 250-liter barrels is suitable for only one person. Therefore, septic tanks of this type are used only for temporary residence or wastewater treatment from one point (for example, from a bathhouse). In most cases, they try in some way to increase the possibility of septic tanks, therefore, among the treatment facilities from barrels, there are practically no two-chamber options (they have too little volume).

It is important to comply with sanitary requirements regarding the permissible distances from the septic tank to certain objects. For example, the distance from the source of drinking water should be at least 50 meters

Garden plants and fruit trees should be located at least 3 meters from the treatment plant. The distance to the road is at least 5 meters.

The conditions of a homemade pump for overflowing water ...

To get started, I suggest you watch a video about this homemade:

Probably many people have ever had a problem pouring water from one vessel to another ... Of course, you can simply lift and turn one vessel over another, but ... this method is not always good, since the vessel can be large, that is, you will have a lot of weight containers and you simply cannot physically lift the container ...

The second way is to pour, well, for example, in circles ... But this method is also not always good, since, for example, the shape of the vessel may not allow drawing water in circles or any other circumstances ... And then the old proven method of pouring liquid comes to mind - take a flexible hose, lower one end of the hose into a container of water, and take the other end of the hose into the oral cavity and blow air sharply into yourself ... Pressure will build up and then water will flow from one vessel to another by inertia until you pull out the hose ... Simple physics , but ... this method is not very hygienic, besides, in a bad combination of circumstances, you can even choke on water ... Therefore, this method is quite dangerous ...

So, let's begin…

In order to make a pump we need:
- a bottle cap; - a drill and an 8 mm drill; - scissors or a knife; - a “neck” of a threaded bottle; - a flexible hose; - a small piece of pipe ...

To begin with, remove the gasket from under the cover and cut off its edges as shown in the photo, leaving a small "tail" ...

Now we carefully place the cut gasket inside the lid and twist it as shown in the photo ... Our cut gasket will serve us as a valve ...

From the other bottle we cut off the "neck" and do something like a turbo water intake ...

Now we put on a flexible hose from the other end of the pipe ...

That's all!!! Our water overflow pump is ready...

Now we lower the side of the pipe where we have the valve into the container with water, and with sharp movements up and down we build up pressure ... Water flows through the valve into the pipe and then into the hose, and from there it already pours out ...

Where to drain water from a summer shower in the country

Equally important when designing a summer shower is a drain for water flow. The easiest way is to connect the drain with a special gutter if it is located on the site. A tray made of galvanized metal sheet should be installed at the base of the summer shower. The drip tray will prevent soil erosion under the shower.

There are several options for where to drain the water from the shower in the country:
you can connect the drain to the central sewer, divert water into the drainage pit, there are other ways.

Before you make a shower drain in the country, if the pallet is located directly on the ground, you need to dig a small recess in the place where the building will be located. The pit should be covered with rubble, stones or completely concreted. Before concreting, this recess must be covered with roofing material so that the earth does not get wet. The pallet should be installed on, which can be used as large stones or other improvised materials.

Then it is necessary to connect the pallet to the gutter using a pipe laid in a trench. Sometimes a do-it-yourself shower drain in the country can be done together with a soapy water collector located outside the shower. Its volume must be at least 200 liters. Not far from the summer shower, you should dig an ordinary hole. Its walls must be strengthened, otherwise they can collapse very quickly during operation. It is better to make the bottom and walls of the collector concrete, then the water will not be absorbed into the soil, and erode it.

You can arrange a septic tank for an outdoor shower, but it should not be placed directly under the shower stall itself, because due to large volumes of water it will begin to fill with soapy water, and it will begin to work worse. All this can lead to the destruction of the soil, and then the foundation of the summer shower. In order to preserve the soil and the structure itself, a drain for an outdoor shower must be built a few meters from the shower stall, and placed next to the drainage. The drain from the summer shower should be on a slope so that it goes towards the drainage tank or trench.

It is not recommended to use clay for the construction of a water-resistant drain layer, since over time it can erode and fill the drainage ditch. The drain must be constructed in such a way that it is ventilated. In this case, there will be no problems with unpleasant odors.

Norms of the distance of treatment facilities on the site

According to SNiP, treatment facilities and pits should be located at a considerable distance from the house, aquifer and other engineering facilities.

From a residential building - at least 5 m to a septic tank, VOC, cesspool to avoid unpleasant odors entering the room. And also to prevent in advance the possible deplorable consequences of the influence of a humid environment on the foundation of the house.
To a well with water - 30-50 m. Of course, it is very difficult to follow this rule, since the size of the plots is very limited. It is still necessary to remove the septic tank from the water supply as much as possible, as far as the technical possibility allows.
To the borders of the neighboring plot - at least 2 m.
From the collector to plants and trees - the location is 2-4 m, if the roots of the tree are large.

Materials and tools

To dig a trench, you need a small excavator. If there is no possibility of arrival of heavy equipment, you will have to take up shovels.
Pipes need to be cut with something, some use a grinder with speed control, you can use a hacksaw with fine teeth.
Jackhammer, puncher - make holes in the well and the foundation of the house.
Sand or fine sand to fix the pipeline in the trench.
Insulation, thermal insulation in places where laying sewerage through an external network to a depth below the soil freezing layer is impossible.

The main segment of the drainage system is a pipe, here are its main options:

Red PVC is available in various sizes.
Black polyethylene also comes in diameters from 50 to 159 mm.
Ribbed - pragma. The length is 4 and 6 m, the diameter is from 100 mm to 500 mm.
Gray polypropylene (plastic).

Some tips from the pros

In order for the sewerage system in a private house to work for the period set for it, you must first install it correctly. This is 80 percent of success. But even after launch, you must properly monitor the system.

Initially, it is correct to organize and calculate the volume of effluents.
Pump out the cesspool in time. And not only the liquid fraction, but also the sediment at the bottom of the wells.
Make sure that foreign objects do not get into the pipe, which can lead to blockage. For example, small parts of children's toys, rags, etc.
Timely conduct an external inspection of septic tanks and pits in order to check their tightness.

Year-round residence and summer

If no one lives in the country house in winter, then it is enough to assemble a summer sewer system. In this case, it is not necessary to dig a deep trench and lay a pipeline of a larger diameter.

The outlet from the house also does not need to be mounted along the very bottom of the foundation. The exit is made directly from the top point of the plumbing fixture. A simple scheme for collecting summer sewage in the photo:

As for the collector into which water will be drained, it must still be sealed and securely installed. No need to install a septic tank, a regular drain pit is perfect. At the end of the summer season, it will simply have to be pumped out and mothballed for the winter.

With year-round living in a private house, you will have to complicate the task a little. In order to use water and a toilet in cold weather, it is necessary to ensure good insulation of the sewer pipes of the external sewage system. In addition, there are still some difficulties during installation. This is the depth to which the outer sections of the water supply are buried, and its insulation, and many other factors.