The stove began to soar, let it be the Priora Halla stove

How to independently replace the stove radiator without air conditioning

What will be needed for replacement? Primarily the following tools:

• Screwdrivers, curly and flat.
• Wrenches for 8 and 10. (Preferably heads with a knob.)
• Thin pliers for removing clamps.

And, of course, some materials and fixtures:

1. Container for coolant from the system.
2. New radiator.
3. Foam, adhesive strips on the radiator of the Priory stove.
4. 2 liters of coolant. (of the same brand as in the system.)
5. Rags.

Having prepared such an arsenal, you can proceed to this interesting operation of replacing the heat exchanger.

Process description

Set the car straight. This is necessary to completely drain the coolant from the radiator of the Priory stove. Substitute a container for liquid under the bottom of the machine. It must be installed in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe drain hole of the radiator of the cooling system. On the right side (along the direction of the car, or on the left, if you stand at the hood). Next you need:

1. Unscrew the lamb of the plug and let the liquid drain. When the pressure weakens, open the cap of the expansion tank. Wait for the drain and tighten the plug. Disconnect the "negative" battery terminal. You can start dismantling the protection. It's called a frill.
2. First remove the windshield wipers. Using a 13 wrench, unscrew the fixing nuts and remove the brush holders. Then remove the rubber seal.
3. Loosen the fixing screws. There are 6 on top and 7 on the bottom edge.

Now remove both halves of the plastic jabot. Having unscrewed the fasteners, remove the cloth protection of the glass niche in which the stove is installed.

Now comes the most crucial moment. Most craftsmen, when replacing this part, immediately disconnect the pipes going to the radiator of the Priory stove. However, there is a risk of pouring coolant over the heater parts. There is a more interesting and safe option.

Removing the stove

Now that the frill and protection are removed, access to the heater is completely open. First of all, you need to disconnect the electrical equipment connectors:

• Shutter drive micromotor. 2 connectors.
• Electric fan. 1 connector.
• Resistor. 1 connector.

Now unscrew the mount of the stove body to the car body. One 10 nut secures the lug on the body of the stove to the right wing. At 8, attaches the upper part to the hairpin at the top. And two nuts at the bottom.

When the fasteners are removed, the fun begins. Unscrew the 3 screws securing the heatsink to the case with a curly screwdriver

Care must be taken not to break off the side, thin pressure relief pipe. After that, unscrew the screws securing the 2 parts of the heater housing

Move the left part with the fan motor a little to the left, disconnecting them, and pull them out.

After that, you can begin to remove the second half with a radiator. Hold the pipes with your hand and start removing the case to the left. When it comes off, put it aside.

After releasing the clamps from the pipes, remove them from the radiator.

Installation (replacement) of a new radiator

There are two options here. You can simply replace it by putting the part in place of the old one, before installing the case. But it is better to install the radiator in the removed half before connecting the pipes.

Having decorated the heat exchanger of the stove with foam rubber, install it in the niche of the housing and fix it with screws. Put the half in place and secure all 3 pipes in place. Tighten clamps.

Carefully assemble the heater in reverse order. Top up the coolant to the correct level. Start the engine and wait for the cooling fan to operate. Press the accelerator pedal and hold for a couple of minutes at about 2,000 rpm. This is necessary to eliminate a possible air lock. Turn on the heater and check its operation in all modes. Everything! Well, here is the work done.

Video on the topic of replacing the stove radiator on the Priore without air conditioning.

One of the reasons for the poor performance of the heater is the stove radiator. During the operation of the car, it begins to leak and is no longer able to give the required amount of heat to the passenger compartment. Depending on the year of manufacture and configuration of the Lada Priora, the process of removing the stove (radiator) can vary greatly.

The stove on the prior does not turn on

Solving the problem of poor heating with a stove on Lada Priore

If the stove does not heat well in the car (Priora is of most interest to us at this moment), then this situation causes a lot of inconvenience to the driver and passengers.

In the summer, this problem is irrelevant, because no one is particularly worried about the condition of the heater.

And only with the onset of cold weather, the vast majority of motorists are puzzled by the problem of a non-working heating system.

Why does the stove not work on Lada Priora

Lada Priora is in many ways similar to its progenitor VAZ of the tenth family, including the heater device.

The manufacturer decided to leave the principle of operation of the stove, replacing only some elements with new ones. Along with this, Lada Priora inherited familiar problems, for example, when the stove does not heat up and blows cold air. Heater assembly (2170-8101012 or 2111-8101012-10).

Airflow distribution gearmotor (2170-8127100).

The stove does not work on Lada Kalina (reasons and repairs)

Most Lada Kalina car owners who have previously encountered other VAZ models note that its stove heats up much better than its predecessors. Unfortunately, it sometimes breaks.

As part of this article, we will try to figure out why the Lada Kalina stove does not work (reasons and repairs).

The most common cause of a malfunction in the Lada Kalina heating system is problems with the engine cooling system.

Repair of the VAZ 2110 stove control unit

The SAUO receives information from:

1. – the cabin air temperature sensor (No. 6), which has a built-in small-sized fan.
2. – MMR (micro motor reducer) (No. 9), information about the position of the heater damper.

Shutter control.

Based on the information received and the set air temperature, the controller controls the position of the heater damper by supplying appropriate signals to the micromotor reducer of the damper drive.

Fan speed control.

The oven does not heat up.

Or the radiator is clogged or what I do not know.

First, I changed the thermostat. Then people advised to put email. pump on the stove for a gazelle. Well, I bought this miracle (650 rubles), punched it in front of the stove and powered it up for ignition.

went means. Warms a fool in the car as much as there is nothing to breathe.

When the stove is turned off, the fan works if in a traffic jam. Question: Who did this, what difficulties did they face, what is the danger of all this.

The stove does not heat, six main reasons

Today, a very relevant article (especially in winter) - the car stove does not heat up, or it heats up very badly!

Why is this happening and what are the main reasons for this.

After all, a normal working car should warm up the interior within 10 - 15 minutes (unless, of course, you have a turbocharged engine, a partial solution for it is here). If after 15 minutes you have barely warm air (or not at all), and all the glasses inside are frozen, then this is not “eating well”! Read my tips below... First, let's think - how does a car warm up?

As we all know, during operation, the internal combustion engine heats up very much, this happens from the friction of the pistons against the cylinder walls, as well as from the combustion of the fuel mixture.

Hello everyone! I went to a friend's car service, they determined that the motor itself was not working. The price of a new one is 1500 rubles. I have a Conder Hull. When removing, the tubes of the conder, the cup, or whatever it is called there, interfere with where the support is attached.

Thanks to the designers of AvtoVAZ!

Dima. Panasonic has the same canoe) on the Internet there is information on how to do this with Panasonic without disassembling the entire heater, it turns out that you cut the casing in the engine compartment and on the motor itself, which does not violate the integrity of the structure and serves as an anther more)) fasten back without problems))

How to repair the stove mode switch in Lada Priora

Lada Priora is a product of the domestic auto industry.

This car has earned people's love for its low cost, good quality, and the availability of parts if repairs are needed.Despite the good reviews of the owners, the car is not without a number of shortcomings.

For example, it happens that the Priora stove only works at 4 speeds. You can go to a service station to find out why the Priora stove switch does not work.

How to remove the stove radiator on Priora without air conditioning

Since the beginning of production, AvtoVAZ has installed a heater from the “tens” on the Priors (catalogue number: 21110-8101012). The disadvantage of this design was that the stove radiator is removed towards the vacuum brake booster, which allows this to be done. As a result, it is necessary to dismantle the heater assembly.

The procedure is as follows:

1. Remove wipers.
2. Remove the frill (wind pad).
3. Remove the noise insulation of the engine shield.
4. Disconnect a bunch of connectors with wires.
5. Loosen the heater mounts.
6. Divide the heater into two parts (left and right).
7. Remove the right side of the heater (in the direction of travel).
8. Move the left side to the side to gain access to the stove radiator.
9. Drain antifreeze.
10. Replace heater core.

The whole procedure took several hours. This is shown in more detail in the video:

There is another way to replace it. To gain access to the stove radiator, instead of the heater housing, it is necessary to remove the vacuum brake booster together with the brake pedal. This allows access to the left side of the heater (in the direction of travel) and to the radiator itself.

The main problems with the heating system at Priore

Why doesn’t the stove heat up if everything is fine with the cooling system? First you need to figure out how exactly the stove works in a car.

The temperature sensor in the cabin receives a signal from the stove control unit. The controller then starts comparing the cabin temperature with the driver's set temperature on the sensor. If there is a difference, the controller sends a signal to the heater gearmotor located under the hood, and it, in turn, controls the operation of the damper and, depending on the signal, opens or closes the air supply from the radiator.

If, regardless of whether the air regulator switches or not, only cold or hot air continues to blow into the passenger compartment, then the control dampers are jammed in one position. In 17% of cases, this is a breakdown of the heater in the car. There may be several reasons:

1. Broken temperature sensor located on the ceiling in the cabin.
2. The damper micromotor is faulty, the gear teeth are worn out or the resistor layer is erased.
3. Clogged cabin filter.
4. The complete absence of flow indicates a breakdown of the stove fuse.

The next part to check if all of the above is in order is the fan. Perhaps it needs to be replaced. If the stove makes humming or whistling sounds during operation, then this is also a sign of a fan malfunction.

The next check point is the heating resistor, its main function is switching fan speeds.

If everything is in order with the dampers, but cold air continues to blow into the cabin, the radiator may be clogged. When the verification of each described detail is completed, but the problem remains, the controller for controlling the operation of the stove should be examined.

But before buying a new device, check the serviceability of the old one. Just replace it with another controller that you can borrow from a friend. Perhaps the problem of poor operation of the stove is something else.

Malfunctions of the car heating system

In a Lada Priora car, the stove regulator does not work due to a malfunction of the multi-position switch or a defective blower fan. When eliminating this malfunction, when the Priora stove fan does not work, you should look at the fuse box, which serves as the main supplier of trouble for the operation of the ventilation device. Many defects in the car's climate system are directly related to the operation of the vehicle's cooling system.

If the fan device is serviceable, but the stove on the Priore does not heat well, then the defect should be searched for by a consistent method of cutting off the checked elements. So, the stove on the Priore does not work well and it is rather cool in the cabin:

The first stage: on the motor, brought to the optimum temperature, we check 2 pipes connected to the heater for temperature values. If both products are hot, then there is no circulation of air masses, and if one pipe is hot and the other is cold, then this indicates the absence of an aqueous solution circulation in the system. We carry out diagnostics of the heater tap in order to deal with the solution of the cooling system (water, antifreeze).

To do this, open the hood and move the faucet from one position to another. If there is a leak from the heating system, then it must be eliminated, because. an insufficient amount of cooler can provoke a situation where cold air blows from the Priora stove and it becomes cool in the cabin. If the tap is rusty and not adjustable, you can leave it in this position for the summer, when the heating system is not in operation. Closer to the cold it needs to be replaced.

The second stage: when the faucet is in the working position and the stove refuses to work, we remove the filler plug of the radiator reservoir and look for the presence of coolant liquid. In the case of the formation of the so-called. “Plugs from the air” we bring the level of the coolant to the maximum value (sometimes it happens that cold air blows from the stove in the Priore due to a lack of coolant liquid). After that, we turn on the power plant and sharply press the accelerator pedal several times, which will provoke a cooler circuit and, under its influence, the water pump will squeeze out the air layer plug.

In order for the air masses to move faster to the outlet level, it is required to drive to an elevation so that the radiator is lower than the radiator of the cooling system. So, the circulation of the cooler has been restored, 2 pipes have become hot, but the stove on the Prior does not work well anyway?

The third stage: the dampers may not work, because the open lever on the instrument panel does not mean at all that the dampers have duplicated this command. Failure of the dampers may be associated with loosening of the mounts of the heater rods and taps, which blocks them in the summer mode of being.

With the hood open, it will not be superfluous to check whether the Priora stove dampers work or not, and also clean the heater from last year's debris and foliage. If even after these cleaning measures the system does not work well or does not function at all, the interior heater, then we go directly to the pipes.

The fourth stage: we check the temperature regime of the pipes with the stove turned on. If the fan is in working condition, two nozzles are hot, but one starts to cool after a while - it is necessary to change the water pump due to poor coolant circulation. Some motorists manage to install a small water pump under the stove radiator.

Having started testing the heating system, we bring the technological process to the end:

1. The coolant level in the expansion tank must be between the "min" and "max" marks.
2. Testing the coolant circulation process in the expansion tank. Its absence is defined as a defect in the water pump or clogging of the cooling complex.

This completes the diagnostics of the heating system.

No heating at idle

This issue is not in vain submitted for separate consideration, since it worries many motorists and the solution to the problem can be much more difficult than one might expect. So, you have a Priora, the stove does not heat up at idle, although when the car is moving, the interior is heated in normal mode. There are also several possible reasons for this:

1. Insufficient coolant level.
2. Leaks that lead to a decrease in the level of antifreeze.
3. The presence of an air lock in the system.

If the first two problems can be easily diagnosed and eliminated, then the situation with an air lock is much more complicated. If you have ruled out the first two reasons and the Priora stove still does not heat up at idle, you need to eliminate the air lock. You need to act as follows:

1. We dismantle the screen from the engine.
2. We lower the clamp, after which it is necessary to remove the throttle assembly heating tube. We choose any of the two.
3. On the expansion tank, unscrew the cap. We place a clean rag on the neck and start blowing into the expansion tank. The air supply must be carried out until coolant begins to pour out of the tube, which was previously removed.
4. We immediately put a tube on the fitting and carefully tighten the clamp.
5. Installing the screen.

If the option of blowing the tank does not suit you, then you can go the other way. We warm up the engine so that the pressure in the heating system increases. After a while, we turn off the car and remove the hose from the heating of the throttle assembly. In this case, the cap from the tank does not need to be removed. As a result of high pressure, coolant will be forced out through the tube. It remains to place the tube on the fitting and tighten the clamp.

Now the Priora stove should not cause difficulties, you know how to fix malfunctions, as well as diagnose and identify the source of problems. Let the heater on your car always turn on, work properly and give comfort regardless of the weather outside the window.

The stove works only on the 4th position Solution and tutorial Community Lada Priora Lada Priora Club on DRIVE2

Hello everyone, guys! In general, I’ll start from afar, ONE OF THE MOST THREATING TOPICS AT PRIOROVODS: “The stove does not work at 1-2-3 position, but only works at 4 maximum”

"The stove only works in the 4th position" or RFV (speed controller)

I did it. Oh yes! Well, not me, but an electrician’s hand) But that’s not the point!) In winter it’s a living hell, guys. It’s already cold outside, the car barely warms up and the stove makes brains, all the windows sweat, it’s impossible to drive, and the temperature starts to drop, your that mother!

It's just something who traveled in such conditions will understand.

Now I’ll tell you sequentially: I have a twofold situation, it happened that you turn on the stove - everything works, any speed, but here everything is different. The circuit itself is simple: if at all the airflow light is cut off and blinks:

What will be required:1) Head to throw off the wipers 2) Phillips screwdriver 3) Gloves 4) Soldering iron

5) Copper wire.

How to get there?1) Open the hood, remove the wiper plugs, remove the wipers. 2) Remove the plugs on the frill (plastic under the wipers), there are ordinary screws with washers. ) We carefully remove the toad. 6) If there is a compressor, we blow everything from dust, foliage (if any)

7) Next we see this picture

8) Remove the plug carefully:

9) Unscrew 2 screws:And here it is in your hands10) We take a soldering iron and solder these two contacts together:

What is the danger of such a method? This method is only fraught with the fact that the stove is now supplied directly without a thermal fuse (without protection), that is, if the emergency mode: for example, the motor has died, the stove cannot start, then the fuse must be knocked out that is inside the RFV (speed controller)

Here, thus, if there is no PROTECTION, then what does this mean? This means that during the EMERGENCY MODE, the fuse on the block under the steering wheel will be knocked out (ONLY ONLY!)

That is, think for yourself that it is more profitable to throw off the cover and change the fuse (IN EXTREME CASE) or disassemble it all and re-solder the thermal fuse, which still needs to be found (under a certain temperature) and thermal paste. This is very expensive!

What to do so that the thermal fuse does not knock out?Here are some of my tips for the future!

1) When you start the engine, you should not immediately turn on the stove, because the prior has a jamb - the stove motor. If it is especially cool outside, then it will start up so that it needs an effort that will give you only 4 stove speeds!

It turns out that we started the car, waited a minute, then we throw it at the 4th speed (10-15 seconds), then gradually lower the speed to the 1st.

2) NEVER - NEVER - NEVER START THE AUTO IF THE OVEN IS ON. This is the first and most important feature of the failure of the thermal fuse (protection). It doesn't cost you anything to turn the stove to the OFF position.

That seems to be all that I wanted to say from the main point. Well, except that this repair is only suitable for those cars that have air conditioning, in my case PANASONIC.

For those who have no air conditioning, everything is much easier.

We carry out comprehensive diagnostics

Removing a faulty heater from the Lada Priora is not so easy. Even experienced motorists cannot cope with this task quickly. In order not to do such a large amount of work in vain, it is better to first diagnose the heating system. You need to act as follows:

1. We probe the channels through which the coolant enters the heater. They should be warm when the stove is on. In addition, when pressing on the main rubber hoses, resistance should be felt. If resistance is not felt, we can talk about a pump pump malfunction. This mechanism is responsible for creating the pressure of the fluid flows necessary for the normal operation of the heater.
2. A little secret, perhaps, will be useful to the owners of Lada Priora: does the stove blow cold air for a long time and does not warm up as quickly as we would like? Then you can try to fill the coolant to the bottom mark in the reservoir. In this case, the liquid will warm up faster. If you practice this method, you will need to constantly check the coolant level.
3. If a running heater is a source of noise, then we can talk about a problem in the bearing, which is located on the electric fan. This situation cannot be ignored, since in the future the fan may jam and the repair will gain a much larger scale.
4. Oven not working? Perhaps the problem lies in the F9 fuse with a rating of 25 A. Its function is to protect the power electrical lines of the heater. A blown fuse must be replaced. If such a situation occurs with enviable constancy, then it is necessary to check all the electrical circuits of the heater, the insulation of the windings on the fan and the presence of an overload in the power circuit.