What to choose a septic tank or cesspool
Effluent from the discharge pipeline is collected in a reservoir, which can be a septic tank or a cesspool.
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A cesspool is a deep pit dug into the ground and reinforced with brick or concrete. Some of the sewage decomposes, some goes into the ground, but most of it is stored in the pit, so it is regularly pumped out. This type of tank is suitable for private houses with a small amount of drains, or for a while, until a septic tank is built.
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The septic tank consists of a septic tank where the effluent is decomposed by bacteria to an insoluble residue. The clarified effluents enter the filtration well, and then disperse through the filter layers into the ground. It is extremely rare (compared to a cesspool) that the septic tank will have to be cleaned of insoluble residues.
Expert answers
Sergey Parfilov:
A separate foundation is ALWAYS made for the stove. Make waterproofing and fill in the slab. The soil will not freeze inside the perimeter of the house, so the groundwater level is not critical
HARD DECEMBER:
My personal opinion is in any case on a separate foundation.
Wanderer:
A separate foundation for the stove, I think ... It can “float” relative to the house. In general, I don’t see any reason to put the stove in the house on stilts. Put a modern one made of metal ...
Natalya Klemyatich:
but you don’t know how the ancestors solved this issue? ... When .. didn’t they pour the foundations vaaabshe? and nothing left and the stoves were more solid
Aa kk:
We poured a separate stove under the oven. Then on top - a reinforced screed for the whole house 8-10cm thick.
Alexei:
Your house is raised on piles, it is not very convenient to put the stove on piles, and the slab on the ground will be low for the stove.
Conclusion - arrange a slab foundation on piles. Piles, formwork, reinforcement frame, slab
Dmirtit Raskol:
Whatever one may say, you will need a formwork device, if you don’t know the technology, then consult, I just ordered, I would advise you to change the foundation device, with good groundwater drainage, you can install a prefabricated strip foundation and the oven will be much easier to install)
Stewardess DK Deathguard:
what piles?
Bison Che:
In such cases, I recommend that you turn to professionals, they will quickly do everything for you and you will be satisfied with yourself!)
Georgy Glurdzhidze:
Plywood is not allowed - it can get damp in winter
You can put plastic sheets or make boxes - glue with foam or silicone and insert upside down
The soil under the box will swell up - there is enough space - and the column will not be pushed out
You can just fill it with sand without tamping - it will not press - it is plastic.
Druid:
Fuck you Leo Tolstoy, while I read half the question, I drank a mug of tea and ate three cakes. Now I’ll finish reading the second half and I’ll answer. Let’s go.1. Question: if you fill a recess under the corner with concrete, then in winter when the soil is heaving? Answer: where did you get the idea that there will be heaving of the soil? Are there places where this happens or has happened before? Even if the enemies pour you water under the hangar that will freeze and cause swelling, it will be at a depth of half a meter, the remaining one and a half meters of piles will be in clay.
2.: ... which would be pretty bad for a welded hangar ... Answer: If you have trusses, not beams, then heaving will not greatly affect.
3. ..a damper layer has been proposed…Answer: the damper effect reaches its maximum effect in a short period of time, for example, during a push or impact. When gradual pressure occurs, the effect decreases.
4. .. lay plywood ... Answer: a dubious option.
5. Question: To what extent is this idea not delusional and true? Answer: in fact, everything you offer is stucco molding and lotions. To be honest, there are doubts that the soil under the asphalt in the hangar will swell, but the hangar will be heated somehow, which means it will not freeze, and even if it is not heated, the soil will not freeze there. In the middle of the 2000s, I worked in a motor transport company and we had a huge hangar for all sorts of rubbish, 500-600 square meters, so the ground never froze there, but if water spilled on the floor, it froze, but the ground underfoot was always soft and dusty.
Alexander:
This is from the series everyone should mind their own business.The designer must design, the builder must build according to the drawing. And so at first they did something stupid and now you think. And I don’t know where this will lead. Fill with asphalt with a slide and trample down more tightly. Asphalt is plastic, if anything then cracks with a primer and mastic, but rub it with sand. And according to the mind, it was necessary to weld other heads and set them above the level of asphalt. Dig the pile to a depth of 30 centimeters, wrap it with hydrostekloizol pasting and fill it with any concrete above the asphalt level so that no accidental water flows down along the pile wall. And so that the pile does not walk less to the side, they make a harness. Now compare with what was done.
Mark Imm:
Look here id="nickname">Aleksey:
Communications in a frame house. Ventilation
Ventilation in a frame house
- a thing absolutely necessary, because. it works like a huge "thermos" and is all sewn up with plastic wrap, on which the steam settles. It needs to be ventilated, and a person needs fresh air.
Ventilation of a frame house is needed for: the inflow of fresh air and the exhaustion of already used air (with carbon dioxide) outside.
tributary
air in frame houses is usually provided through windows (micro-ventilation, or a window), although there are options with KIV dampers (and their analogues) mounted directly into the wall, as well as more advanced forced air systems with recuperation (but not entirely relevant for an economical house ).
Extraction of used air
usually produced through a pipe that goes from the room to the roof. It can work both in the “natural draft” mode (but this is a problem this summer, because the temperature difference is small, which means it will not “pull”), and on fans that force air out when turned on (which can be also powered, for example, from the light in the bathroom or kitchen).
Hood in a frame house
need to do:
a) in the kitchen (through a special umbrella)
b) in the bathrooms (it is possible through the wall, but it is better not to do this)
c) from the gas boiler in the boiler room (possible through the wall)
d) from the hall with bedrooms (and if there are gaps under the bedroom door, then the air will be drawn out through this corridor from there too)
e) from (if a gas boiler with an open burner is used).
Frame house ventilation
- a very responsible and important matter, do not listen to those who say that the walls "breathe". A frame house breathes only if you have a frame-slit house from crooked builders, a real frame house does not breathe, it is a thermos with a sealed film inside
circuit diagram
After considering various options, I decided to do so.
- Main line 110mm. There is a main drain line 110 in diameter, which runs under the house, up to the corner. There is a vertical transition and then the pipe goes already underground to the septic tank. Why not straight to the ground? Firstly, because I'm too lazy to dig under piles. Secondly, a fairly long distance to the septic tank and a high groundwater level. Subject to the required slope, the pipe to the septic tank will fit already at a decent depth, which increases the labor costs for its implementation. The air section will be well insulated in the future.
- secondary highways. There are several of them in the house, in addition to sinks, a shower and a toilet bowl, there are also emergency ladders in wet rooms (an extremely useful thing) and water drains from household appliances. It was decided to start up these pipes in the ceiling. With exits to the toilet or independent exits to the main highway under the house.
In the diagram: the orange line, the main line running in air insulation, the blue ones, those that go in the ceiling. Branch 1 pipe 40 diameter from the washing machine, then go to 50, connect to the branch of the shower drain, exit to the fan room at the toilet and down, to the main highway
Branch 2 Emergency ladder from the technical room, on the way to this branch the emergency ladder of the bathroom is connected, through the drain of the sink we bring everything to the main highway.
Branch 3 The drain from the kitchen sink connects to the emergency ladder in the steam room and dives into the main line.
The central highway goes a little at an angle, because the diagonal braces that connect the screw piles interfere with the direct laying under the house + a Christmas tree grows on the corner of the house, against which the pipe would directly rest.
How to properly insulate plumbing and sewerage
Schematic diagram of the insulation of the water supply to the log cabin of the bath, installed on screw piles
Layers of insulation of the water pipe at the water inlet to the bath
Often, as an argument in favor of building a bath on a strip foundation, and not on screw piles, they cite considerations about the impossibility of wiring winter communications, water and sewerage, in the underground space of a log house. The strip foundation seems to be warmer and protects the pipes from freezing. We will not deny that "bare" screw piles and concrete tape with closed air retain heat in different ways. However, to protect communications from freezing, it is better to make local protection (insulation and heating) of pipes, and not to warm up the entire underground space under the bath. In severe frosts, strip foundations cannot always maintain a positive temperature under a log house, because the floors of the log house are insulated and do not let heat down, moreover, according to the laws of physics, warm air always rises. To freeze the water pipe, any temperature below 0 ° C is sufficient. Freezing of a sewer pipe of a standard diameter (110 mm), taking into account the fact that warm water enters the drain, often with organic impurities, and does not linger in the pipe, is practically excluded in any case that occurs in our latitudes (in Moscow and St. Petersburg) negative temperatures.
So that the water pipe under the log cabin of the bath does not freeze, from the source of the water intake (it does not matter which: the central water supply, well or well), the pipe is laid underground below the depth of freezing of the soil. For the Central and North-Western regions of Russia, the freezing depth indicator is in the range of 120-150 cm and depends on how much snow fell in a particular winter, what frosts were and how much water is contained in the surface layer of soil at the construction site of the log cabin
The ditch for the water pipe is brought inside the dimensions of the log house, so that it is possible to raise the pipe strictly vertically and get to the right place in the bathhouse. It is not allowed to lay water pipes horizontally in the underground space - this can lead (and probably will lead - a matter of time) to freezing of the pipe. The best pipes to use are HDPE (Low Density Polyethylene) pipes with a diameter of 32 mm (in). HDPE pipes withstand repeated freezing without compromising the integrity of the structure. So even when completely frozen, it is enough just to warm them up.
To insulate the vertical section of the water pipe (from the depth of freezing to the entrance to the bath room), a heating cable is wound onto it with a free spiral, then a casing made of foamed polyethylene is put on, after which the entire structure is placed in a drainage pipe with a diameter of 200 mm, inside which expanded clay is poured. For flooded soils, instead of backfilling with expanded clay, we recommend pouring mounting foam. The bottom of the insulating drainage pipe is laid at a freezing depth, the top is brought to the floors inside the log cabin of the bath. The heating cable does not have to be turned on all the time: only in severe frosts or if, after a break in the use of the water supply, the water stopped being supplied to the bath due to the formation of an ice plug in the pipe.
Sewer pipes passing in the open part of the underground under the log cabin of the bath are also best insulated with polyethylene foam casings.If pipes with a diameter of less than 110 mm, for example 40 or 50 mm, are used to drain waste from the bath, we recommend that you run a heating cable along the bottom of the pipe (not in a spiral, as in a water pipe, but in one line, strictly below). It is permissible to stretch sewer pipes in a horizontal direction (a slope of 2-3 cm per 1 m of length for fecal effluents, for water flow the slope is not fundamental), however, the shorter the horizontal section in the underground space of the log cabin and the faster the pipe gets underground and then into a septic tank (or other type of wastewater intake), the less likely it is to freeze ice and form a blockage inside the pipe.
Communications in a frame house. Electrician
The power supply system of a frame house consists of an external and internal electrical network. Internal, in turn, consists of a shield, sockets, switches and current consumers. They connect the current in our area, usually from a pole through the air, after which they must ground the input node to the house again, even if grounding has already been done at the pole.
First, we decide on the layout, then we think through all future consumers (household appliances, appliances, etc.) in our layout. Especially precisely it is necessary to determine the "special" consumers (stove, refrigerator, hob, boiler,
These consumers are special, there is either a special machine for them, or they must be placed on a special non-switchable line, etc. This is not your headache, but the headache of the designer of your future shield (I would not dare to design the shield myself, there are a lot of subtleties in this matter).
It's best to find a craftsman you trust. As with, it is better to entrust this matter to an experienced designer, and not to a one-day firm.
After you have designed and installed the shield, you will need to run the cables from the machines around the house. Ideally, you should be provided with a specific shield diagram with an explanation for each machine. In my case, it looks like this:
Those. of the two machines that are attached to one RCD, there are 3 phase wires in 3 bedrooms. And already there they come to the first block of sockets in the bedroom, from which they go to the second block of sockets, etc. The same is the case with the kitchen and living room and other rooms.
Ideally, you also need to have a separate shield for (if you have one in the house).
This is what my two electrical panels look like:
Advantages of polypropylene pipes
All work is greatly facilitated if polypropylene pipes are used, which are compatible with other materials, they are durable, not subject to corrosion and are of a lightweight design. It is not difficult to cut such pipes with an ordinary hacksaw or special scissors for cutting pipes.
In order for the internal water supply to work properly, install taps on hot and cold water pipes, as well as on other plumbing fixtures such as the toilet bowl, washbasins, washing machine and dishwasher. In cases where you need to turn off the water in the right place, you do not have to turn off the entire "riser" but only turn off the tap to the consumer. If it is planned to make water heated floors in a frame house, be sure to install taps. Technological hatches are used for access to cranes, they must be placed in a convenient and accessible place. <.p>
Open ball valves smoothly so that water slowly fills the entire system. Water hammer damage plumbing fixtures and pipes. During operation, it is necessary to open / close the ball valve completely - since, during incomplete closing or opening of the valve, salts will be deposited on the ball, and they prevent the valve from opening and closing.
For a strong threaded connection, use tow, wind it clockwise, use a special sealant paste to improve the tightness of the connection.Tighten the threads well with a pipe wrench, but do not overtighten or turn the threaded connection.
To install plumbing in a frame house with our own hands, we need a tool:
- Hand pipe wrench - designed for strong grip and girth of pipes;
- Adjustable wrench - designed for tightening and loosening nuts;
- Scissors for cutting polypropylene pipes;
- Construction tow - for winding pipes;
- Adapters for pipes of various shapes;
- Soldering iron for soldering polypropylene pipes;
Mistakes in the installation of water supply and sewerage systems, how to avoid them?
The laying of sewerage and water supply systems must begin with a finished project of engineering systems. Observe the correct slope of the pipes. Do not try to insert additional risers into the common sewer riser for cold and hot water supply using one hole. Always install shut-off valves for each plumbing fixture so that it is possible to shut off the water not only in the entire house, but also separately at the plumbing fixture and service or replace it.
The cutting line of the polypropylene pipe must be exactly at a right angle. The pipes are connected to each other with a rubber gasket, if the pipes are difficult to connect due to the rigidity of the rubber bands, spray silicone grease on them. Assemble short structures and assemble them on site.
The following pipe diameters must be used in the drain system:
- For the central riser and the drain outlet of the toilet bowl - a pipe of 100 millimeters;
- For vertical branches of the riser - pipes from 65 to 75 millimeters;
- For a combined drain of a bathroom and a sink, pipes of 50 millimeters are required;
- Bathtubs and sinks - for them, use pipes measuring 40 millimeters;
- For sinks and trouble, pipes with a diameter of 32 mm are suitable.
Communications in a frame house. Heating
First of all, you need to decide what fuel to use. for heating your frame house
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Heating can be gas (main or from a cylinder), electric, diesel or solid fuel (in particular, a stove).
After you have decided on the fuel, you need to select pipes for heating:
— polypropylene
(PPR) - the simplest option and the most commonly used "among the people." Of the pros: the cheapness of pipes and fittings (although a real European PPR is no longer so cheap, if the PPR is very cheap, think about it, this is clearly a Chinese fake), ease of installation (not even by a professional), special budget scissors and the same budget soldering iron are needed from the tools. cons: not the most reliable pipe, the quality of installation is not obvious (you can’t look inside).
— metal-plastic
- also a commonly used material. of the pros: pipe flexibility, simple installation, average price. of the minuses: frequent complaints about the quality of pipes and the tightness of fittings.
— cross-linked polyethylene PeX
- already more decent material, used for floor heating pipes. of the pros: reliability, durability. of the minuses: the price is already decent, you need an expensive tool for installation, installation is more complicated, “naughty” pipe.
— copper
- the most expensive and "cool" material. In Canada, in fact, only it is used. Very durable material, but at the same time very expensive (but cheap fittings).
For installation, you only need a burner and, most importantly, "straight" hands. It is often said that in the end, the cost is a little more expensive than even the PPR, he himself has not yet decided on the final opinion, but copper is certainly good.
Frame house
can be heated with both underfloor heating and radiators. The second, although not so beautiful, is much simpler and more maintainable, but we are building a frame for ourselves, right? I chose bimetallic radiators for myself, which combine the advantages of steel (strength) and aluminum (heat dissipation) radiators.
Perhaps I will still install a warm floor, but I will add this information to the post later.
Now we need to decide on heating system
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She happens like single-pipe
, and two-pipe
. Single-pipe is a relic of the past and now it is not recommended to use it, the pipes for it must be used thick, and the heat regulation in it is lame. So I am definitely for a two-pipe heating system in a frame house, and in any other.
After choosing a system (if it is a two-pipe system), you need to determine whether your pipes will run in the same direction throughout the house (series circuit
), or in two or even three (collector circuit
). In the first case, if the route turns out to be too long, then in the last rooms in this sequence there may not be enough heat, do not forget also the need for “high thresholds” at the entrance doors, they will have a pipe, so I am for a two-pipe collector system.
It looks like this, for example:
Correct connection of a large radiator (diagonal).
If you connect it not diagonally, but, for example, make both the entrance and exit from it in its lower parts, then such a radiator will give off much less heat, it simply will not warm up all.
Sewer wiring in a frame house highlights
If we consider the sewerage system in more general terms, then it is a network of branched ones that are designed to conduct and output waste water. At the entrance, all these pipes are connected into one common stream, which goes outside the building and is disposed of.
Sewerage in a frame house: stages of formation
Below we will consider the sequence of actions, following which you can sewer into a frame house with your own hands.
- Drawing up an internal network diagram
Drawing up a diagram of the internal network. It is better if this work was carried out during the design of the future house, when you will figure out the location of the rooms and their functional purpose. Having an idea of where and how the rooms and plumbing will be located, the developer will be able to determine where and how the sewer pipes will be laid. This means that already at the time of construction and erection, it will be possible to provide, if not all, then most of the technological holes for pipes in walls and ceilings.
Advice!
- Determining the location of the central riser
The complexity of these works lies only in their scope. Modern elements of the pipeline are mounted quite easily. All rectilinear elements are hermetically connected in a groove with a rubber seal. For additional protection against leaks, the joints are advised to be treated on the basis of silicone
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Sewer pipes are located, as a rule, in the walls or under the floor of a frame house. The system is built on the principle of gravity, when the movement of water is directed from the bottom up under the influence of gravity. An important condition in this case is the following: the sewer outlet must be located below the rest of the pipes.
There is also a variant of a pressure sewer device; pumps are used in its installation, which direct the water flow in the right direction. Pressure sewage justifies itself when there is a need to install plumbing or equipment below the level of the outlet pipe, for example, a laundry device in the basement of a house.
In the case of a gravity sewer device, the slope of the pipeline should be monitored. For pipes with a diameter of 5 cm, a slope of at least 3-4 cm is required, when using pipes with a diameter of 10 cm - 2-3 cm per meter of length.
- We organize the release of sewerage
Regardless of whether the tie-in of the sewer from the frame house to the central one is organized or a septic tank is provided, the installation of the sewer outlet is important. Its main function is to connect the internal and external sewage systems in a frame house
This element of the sewer system is located most often directly near the riser. Installation of the release is best done at the initial stages of laying sewers in the house.
Usually, in order to avoid freezing of sewage in the pipeline, the outlet is equipped in the thickness of the foundation with a depth of at least 1 meter. In some regions with a warm climate, a shallower outlet location is possible. The outlet for the release should be provided at the stage. If this was not provided, you will have to make quite a lot of effort to make a hole of the required size in the concrete base.
- Riser installation and wiring connection
The best option is to install a riser in the room where the toilet is located, i.e. in the bathroom or, because there are recommendations according to which the sewer pipe from the toilet to the riser should not exceed 1 meter in length.
As we have already said, sewer pipes are located, as a rule, in the walls or under the floor. In this case, the installation of pipes can be open or closed. Despite the fact that indoor installation is certainly more aesthetic, it causes certain difficulties if it is necessary to repair or clean the sewer.
For more efficient operation of the sewerage system, when connecting horizontal pipes to a riser, it is better to use tees and bends with an oblique entrance.
- Exhaust pipe removal
This part of the sewerage is an inconspicuous, but very important component of the internal system. Its function is to supply atmospheric air to the system, which prevents the formation of blockages.
In accordance with the technology, the fan pipe is connected to the riser. To avoid the appearance of an unpleasant odor in the house, do not connect this sewer element to the ventilation system or kitchen hood. It should also be ensured that there are no windows or balconies at the outlet of the fan pipe.
Sewer wiring in a frame house: materials used
Most often, plastic pipes are used for the installation of internal sewage in a frame house. These are gray polymer pipes.
Best Answers
Artur Maratov:
cool house
Evgeniy ,,,,,,,:
Kaifova piles stand
Natalya Klemyatich:
The horizon is broken .. (uneven shrinkage) Jack, wedges .mortar .. Business garbage ..
La Nochka:
Like saving on the foundation ... No? Claims to a licensed organization. (I hope not in the answers they asked how to build.
Holy Inquisitor:
It is possible that if the soil is sand, then the house can generally sink completely, here Brazil was shown houses by the sea, so the Peisan tower rests along the curvature ...
Build City4939:
Ha…. such a brownie there ... loves to swing on a swing ... imagine that you live on the sea ... pitching ..
Scarifier:
Perhaps the foundation was tied incorrectly, so there is no structural rigidity, on met piles if they are high and not only do you need to make jibs and tie them together.
Mikhail Podvolotsky:
The length of the piles was incorrectly determined and the piles were installed incorrectly. The binding is irrelevant. Each pile separately should not stagger. The soil around the piles does not hold and over time it will simply fall and that's it.
Vladimir Petrov:
The piles were not set evenly or simply sat down. You need to jack up those corners where the house does not sit on piles and put logs under them
Alexei:
Jack up and put spacers on the pile heads.
Can't find the fire?
This is common if there is a highway or railway nearby.
Ilya Pivovarov:
