Consider the types of faults and how to fix them
Leak in an unthreaded area
The main reason for its appearance is a poor-quality weld - under the influence of temperature, it collapses in the first place.
Scheme for eliminating leakage with a rubber band
In this case, you do not have to reset the risers and deal with disgruntled neighbors. You will need a clamp to fix leaks: put it on the pipe so that the gasket is adjacent to the leak, and carefully tighten it with bolts
If there are streaks of paint in the place of the leak, carefully clean them with a knife (due to this, the leak may increase somewhat)
An aluminum clamp is also suitable for this case: you need to put a thick rubber gasket under it and clamp it with a screwdriver.
Leakage on the thread from under the locknut
It occurs due to a violation of the tightness by mechanical action (someone sat down or stood on the pipe).
The first step is to turn off the heating and reset the risers. Next, you need to unscrew the locknut, clean the threads and inspect it. If there are no fistulas, rewind the nut with flax, paint or any other sealant (clockwise) and boldly tighten it back.
If, when you turn on the heating, your pipe flows again, you will have to remove the lock nut again, and with it the radiator plug. When dismantling the upper liner, the radiator should not be completely removed.
Remove all the paint, drive the threads on the pipe with a special die and cut an additional 5-6 threads. Then tighten the plug and locknut and connect the hose to the radiator. The leak will be fixed.
Leak in the radiator plate
You can fix the leak with cold welding
The main reason is the thin walls of the radiators. Due to corrosive processes, fistulas appear in them sooner or later. Of course, it is best to completely replace the plate, but if this is not possible, cold welding will come to the rescue.
To repair you will have to reset the risers. Clean the place of the fistula from paint and rust, degrease (this will require gasoline or acetone) and then apply cold welding. Instructions for it are on the package, read carefully. Apply the weld so that it covers the area 3-4 cm around the fistula.
Leak between sections
In this case, you will have to completely remove the radiator (having previously drained all the water from the heating system). You need to measure the distance between the nearest end of the radiator and the leak, and then run a radiator wrench into it to hook the problem nipple and tighten it. Don't be afraid to apply force - you won't break it. After tightening, reinstall the radiator and start the heating system.
Loose radiator sections
As you can see, there is nothing difficult in fixing a leak in the radiator, but you should follow a clear procedure and be extremely careful. Do not put off the repair of the radiator! And, of course, it is best to call the appropriate service: it will help not only fix the problem, but also prevent it in the future.
Literally about twenty minutes ago, the following story happened to me: I am sitting in the kitchen, drinking tea. On the radiator.
I noticed that the faucet was leaking. I tried to open and close (probably it was a mistake), but the water began to flow more strongly. The apartment is rented, there was a plug made of electrical tape and fum tape on the tap.
It's running strong enough, I don't know what to do. I would be glad for good advice.
I just called the emergency gang - they turned it off, saying that they do not serve at home.
No duplicates found
Let the emergency gang not be smart - the current battery faucet is their area of responsibility (if the owners of the apartment did not change the battery and the faucet on their own, then the elimination of the accident is free, or rather it is already included in the property maintenance fee. If the batteries and the faucet were changed on their own, they still have to turn off the water and fix the tap, but for money.And if you rent officially, then the owner is usually responsible for such emergencies and the fee for such a force majeure is already included in the rent.
At least give me a photo, especially tampax from electrical tape and fuma.
The heating battery is leaking what to do
The first thing to do if the radiator is leaking, as in the photo, is to turn off the water. But if the leak is serious, then it is urgent to call an emergency team - the plumbers have all the necessary tools and materials to fix the problem if the battery has leaked.
Next, if possible, turn off the water. It is good if there is a tap or valve in the apartment itself - this will quickly turn off the water supply and save property. But what if there is no such valve, and the radiator is leaking - what should I do? Then you need to turn the coolant supply valve to the heating system, which is located on the main pipe near its entrance to the basement. If the leak is minor, then you can try to fix it yourself (for more details: “How to fix a heating pipe leak if it leaks”).
Air conditioning expansion valve
Downcast. why are you afraid of them (communal workers)? You pay them money every month, right? So for your money do not ask, but DEMAND! Do not humiliate yourself and do not ask - take a piece of paper and write an Application addressed to the head of the housing office (or whatever it is called in your area). Complain - that you called his employee, he came, did nothing, i.e. refused to fulfill his obligations. And that if “tomorrow” you flood the neighbors, then during the debriefing, you will blame him, the boss, in all instances, for inaction, which led to it. ".
A message from Novosel
as an option - first they will require a receipt to pay, they have a price list
You contradict yourself.
If they are “obliged”, then what is the payment?
A leak in a heating radiator is an unpleasant, but rather common breakdown that residents of houses or apartments face sooner or later. The main reason for the appearance of a leak is, of course, the aging of pipes and corrosion of the metal. Sometimes a leak appears in case of improper installation of connections or due to excessive mechanical stress on the heating system.
Radiator
Sometimes the reason may be the choice of the wrong materials (for example, if a silicone gasket is placed in a pipe joint, it will deform over time, which will cause a leak).
Unfortunately, many ordinary people believe that to fix the problem, it is enough just to substitute a basin under a dripping pipe. The result is always the same - a pipe burst, water on the floor, angry neighbors downstairs.
If your radiator is leaking, call a specialist immediately!
However, there are times when the breakdown has to be fixed by yourself. What to do in this case?
To begin with, you will have to turn off the heating and release all the water from the pipes. If you live in a high-rise building, the valves will be in the basement. Be sure to hang a sign on them that repairs are underway, otherwise anyone can go down to the basement and fill the system. In this case, streams of dirty hot water will pour into your apartment.
Preparation and necessary tools
The first rule of any plumbing repair is to shut off the water supply. Usually the valves can be found in the toilet, the levers just need to be rotated 90 degrees. If the equipment has not been used for a long time, the valves may be blocked. It doesn't take a heroic effort to turn them around. Thus, you can simply rip off the tap and then instead of one problem you will have to solve two
Valves should be designed carefully, gradually increasing effort and adding lubricant drop by drop.
Only after the water supply is securely shut off, repair work can begin. First you need to prepare the necessary tools so that they are at hand:
- wrench;
- flat screwdriver;
- crosshead screwdriver
- wrench etc.
Usually this simple set is enough. Auxiliary elements will not interfere, for example, pieces of rubber or leather for the manufacture of new gaskets, a fluoroplastic sealing tape, which is replaced by liners, rags, sponges, detergent to remove dirt accumulated inside the mixer, etc.
Advice. So that an accidentally dropped tool does not damage the sink or bathtub, it does not hurt to put something soft below: a rag, a piece of foam rubber or other material suitable for the role of a shock absorber.
There are many reasons why a faucet is leaking.For a traditional two-valve faucet, the most pressing problem is the wear of the gasket or liner, which must be replaced. If a ball (or swivel) valve is leaking, which is arranged fundamentally differently, completely different actions will be needed.
What to do if the heating battery is leaking
If you notice a battery leak, call your home maintenance company right away. This should be done immediately, even if the leak is small, as the leak can quickly increase. After that, you need to close the battery, if possible. Further, before the arrival of the emergency brigade, it is worth doing the following.
The photo shows an example of a leak between battery sections.
If the flow is strong
Place a container under the leak. If the area of the leak is large, you can wrap the leak with a cloth or film and direct the free end into a container.
If the leak is small (the heating battery is dripping, leaking)
The place of the leak is a pipe or its connection to the battery
It is necessary to clamp the pipe with a clamp or wrap the pipe or joint with rubber, tighten with wire and clamp with pliers. If a plastic or metal-plastic pipe leaks, flexible plastic or fiberglass is used as a bandage. The bandage is fixed with clamps or ties.
The faucet on the radiator is leaking
If the ball valve leaks in one of the extreme positions - open and closed - it must be changed. In some cases, tightening or replacing the oil seal (gasket) solves the problem.
Leakage between battery sections
To fix a leak in the battery, you will need a bandage and epoxy glue or its waterproof equivalent. Saturate the bandage with glue and wrap it around the place where the leak occurred. It takes from one to three days for the glue to dry completely.
Fistula directly on the radiator
Cold welding will help here. You need to take a little welding in your hands (after putting on rubber gloves), knead and cover up the leak. Cold welding hardens in about an hour. Polymer or powder based sealants can be used. The damaged area must first be cleaned and, if possible, treated with sandpaper.
Flowing connection of metal-plastic pipes
It is necessary to disassemble the leaking end of the connection, remove the nut and pull the pipe out of the fitting. Depending on the situation, it will be necessary to change the o-ring, fitting gasket or align the pipe cut.
What to do if the heating pipe is leaking?
If the leak is on a flat area, a plumbing pipe clamp (clamp) can be used to stop the leak. If there is no ready-made clamp, a piece of rubber must be wound around the source of the leak and secured with wire.
Why do radiators leak?
Leaks can be caused by the following:
- Corrosion damage to metal.
- Incorrect battery installation.
- Worn seal between battery sections.
- Radiator mismatch with system pressure (wrong radiator selection).
- Violation of the bending radius during the installation of metal-plastic pipes.
- Incorrect selection of consumables. For example, the use of silicone gaskets that deform over time.
- Use of unsuitable pipes (for example, a cold water pipe has been installed instead of a hot water pipe).
When is the best time to change the battery?
It is better to replace the battery immediately after a leak is detected, without waiting for the end of the heating season. The leak can get worse quickly and unexpectedly.
Ball valve repair
Newfangled ball valves are somewhat more complex than traditional valve models. So, what should be done if the ball valve is flowing? Most often, the problem is that contaminants have got inside the case, which interfere with the operation of the mixer.
When repairing a ball valve, carefully remove the valve. To do this, first remove the decorative cap, under which there is a fixing screw. In short, the faucet needs to be disassembled, cleaned and reassembled
They do it like this:
In short, the faucet needs to be disassembled, cleaned and reassembled. They do it like this:
Use a screwdriver to unscrew the screw that secures the lever.
Carefully remove the lever from the faucet.
Unscrew the threaded screw with a screwdriver.
Remove the mixer dome and plastic seal.
Inspect the seal gasket, remove accumulated plaque.
If the seal is worn out, you need to purchase and install a new part.
Take out and inspect the ball. If it is damaged, it will also have to be replaced with a new one.
Gently pry off the seals that secure the ball with a thin screwdriver
If they are even a little worn, they will also have to be replaced.
After replacement, lubricate the seals with the composition recommended by the manufacturer.
Carefully assemble the mixer in reverse order.
Care must be taken when cleaning the ball mixer, since its parts are easily damaged. If all the steps are done correctly, the leaks will stop.
In the same way, problems with temperature control in mixers of this type are eliminated.
Sometimes you just need to change the faucet cartridge. This procedure is described in detail in the video:
Cement-gypsum dressing to eliminate the leakage of the heating battery
Before you fix the leak in the heating battery, you need to prepare the required materials and tools:
- cement;
- alabaster (gypsum);
- container with water;
- salt;
- medical bandage.
To eliminate the leak, a bandage is applied to the damaged area.
The procedure after turning off the water is as follows:
- cement is diluted in a container with water to the consistency of thick sour cream;
- cut the bandage into strips 25-30 centimeters long;
- carefully soak the bandage with a cement mixture;
- wrap strips around the injury site.
The process is repeated until a strong bandage is obtained.
If it was not possible to block the water, then instead of cement, you need to use alabaster, which dries much faster. Then a bandage with cement is applied to the plaster cast.
In the event that the leakage of the heating battery occurred at the threaded connection, then you can use salt:
- wet strips of cloth or bandage in water;
- carefully roll the material in salt;
- wrap around the leak.
The gap will close as a result of the dissolution of salt in water. A cement bandage is applied on top.
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The heating system has a boiler connection system, an expansion tank, radiators, air vents, pipes, fasteners, collectors, pressure-increasing pumps, thermostats. On the open tab, we can find and select the necessary parts of the system for the garage. Garage heating assembly includes important components
Any knot is important. Therefore, the correspondence of the parts of the structure must be planned technically deliberately.
Replacing the gasket in the faucet, thanks to the wonderful film "Afonya", has become an almost anecdotal situation. Despite all the achievements of civilization, if a tap is leaking in the kitchen or in the bathroom, it is sometimes simply unrealistic to wait for qualified help from a plumber from the management company. But if a tap is flowing in the house: how to fix plumbing equipment yourself? This is not the most difficult task. You need to find out the cause of the malfunction and fix it with a simple set of tools.
Replacing a faucet without blocking the riser
Is it possible to replace the stopcock without shutting off the water.
Do not practice on the upper floors! Do not do this with hot water and heating!
One of the readers of the site under the nickname, stefano asked a similar question:
Tell me how to proceed. The house has a riser and water outlets from polypropylene pipes. The crane flew on one of the outlets. Can I somehow replace it without shutting off the water in the whole house? And what is better to put? We turn off the water every day before leaving for work.
The first thing to do is to fix the pipes on which the meters hang. Meters should not hang on pipes. To replace the faucets, you will have to turn off the riser. Of course, you can install a duplicate if this one also overlaps, but this is only in a very extreme case.
In your case, it is better to disable the riser. If this is possible, then after disconnecting, you will have to solder something here, namely: if you look at the photo, then after the meters you have two 90-degree bends that lead the pipe closer to the wall. With the same two taps, take the faucet and counters to the wall immediately after the riser. Next, the meters must be put on clamps so that they do not hang on the pipes.
For example, use the following clamps:
They fit very well into the girth of the counters. After installation, they are almost invisible.
As for the valves, install reinforced faucets Valtek, or for example Bugatti.
There is a material about shutoff valves here and here.
Two-valve faucet repair
Gasket replacement
The answer to the question: why does the tap flow, no matter how tightly it is twisted, most likely sounds like this: the problem is in the worn gasket. Replacing it is not difficult, for this you need:
- Unscrew the valve body (it is simply rotated counterclockwise).
- Remove damaged or worn gasket.
- Make a new gasket from a piece of thick leather or rubber. For the sample, of course, they take the old gasket.
- Install a new gasket.
- Wind the seal around the stop edge.
- Reinstall the valve body by turning it clockwise.
- Using a wrench, tighten the installed valve tightly.
In order not to bother with the manufacture of the gasket, you can buy a new one in the plumbing store. However, if for some reason this is not possible, a home-made part is quite suitable for an urgent crane repair.
The diagram shows in detail how to properly replace the ceramic gasket in a traditional two-valve mixer. You will need a Phillips screwdriver and wrench
Replacing the sealing insert of the stuffing box
Worn gland packing insert can also cause leakage. In this case, leakage is observed when the valve is open: water enters between the gland nut and the valve stem. To correct the situation, you must:
- Loosen the gland nut using a screwdriver.
- Make a sealing insert from PTFE sealing tape.
- Remove worn bushing.
- Wrap the new insert tightly around the valve stem.
- Tighten the nut.
If everything is done correctly, the valve will turn smoothly, and the flow will stop.
Shower hose O-ring replacement
When a leak occurs where the faucet and shower hose connect, it is usually a worn O-ring that causes problems. To replace it, you must:
- Using a wrench, unscrew the shower hose. This must be done carefully, otherwise the hose threads can be easily damaged.
- Remove worn seal.
- Install new O-ring.
- Reinstall the shower hose.
If possible, it is best to use an O-ring made of silicone. Rubber parts are less resistant to wear and therefore not as durable.
Most often, to eliminate the leakage of the tap, it is necessary to replace the rubber gasket or part of the locking mechanism - the crane box. These parts can be purchased at a plumbing store.
When, when transferring the water supply to the shower hose, a small amount of water continues to flow from the tap, the locking elements located in the mixer handles should be changed, they are called crane boxes. They can be ceramic or equipped with a rubber gasket, you need to choose the right model in a plumbing store.
Required Tools
Before work, it is important to collect the necessary set of tools. They should be at hand at any time.
So, for work, you need an adjustable wrench, a flat-bladed screwdriver and a Phillips screwdriver, wrenches.Often, this modest set should suffice. It happens that suddenly and strongly the faucet in the kitchen flows. How to fix it, what keys you need - you can’t say specifically here. The fact is that each manufacturer has its own standards. A set of keys that every motorist has will suffice.
Also, it will not be superfluous to prepare various additional elements. These can be pieces of rubber, leather, from which gaskets can be made. A fluoroplastic sealant in the form of a tape, rags, and detergents may also come in handy.
Sometimes, during the repair process, keys or any other tool can fall - in order not to damage an expensive sink or sink in this way, put a sponge, rag, or something else under the bottom that can absorb the impact.
Leaking ball valve
Good day. A ball valve was leaking, standing on the outlet from the heating riser to the battery. The battery is an aluminum radiator. A crane with an American, of an unknown manufacturer, was complete with a battery. All this stuff was installed by Santa from ZhEK two years ago
But this is not very important. In short, today I decided to turn off the water supply to the battery, and when I turned it off, water flowed from under the butterfly
He took off the butterfly - a leak from the gap between the stem and the valve body. The crane is cheap, there are no glands (like the Bugatti) there. There is no leakage in the fully closed and fully open state. I think that it is necessary to change this tap and the second one, which cuts off this battery, too. I'm right?
Vl-80 wrote: There is no leak in the fully closed and fully open state
And it must be either completely open or completely closed. This is not your regulator.
This is understandable, but in this case, how to be?
Hubert wrote: And he must be either completely open or completely closed.
There should be no leakage in any position.
in my humble opinion
Are there any identification marks on the crane? And so, of course, change.
There are letters MPL and a number.
And the fact that the faucet dripped what does it say? The body is not damaged, it flows precisely from the gap between the stem and the body. There was a similar case when the rod fell out of the ball and flew out, of course there was flooding.
And this says that the seal between the stem and the body has leaked. Or it (capable of holding water for a long time) is not provided at all - by the way, this is quite possible. In the fully closed and fully open positions, when the fluoroplastic gaskets between the ball and the body are in good condition (i.e. the main gaskets of the ball valve), the internal cavities of the body are not under pressure. So you can leave it like that for now.
psnsergey wrote: Or it (capable of holding water for a long time) is not provided at all - by the way, this is quite possible
psnsergey wrote: Or it (capable of holding water for a long time) is not provided at all
psnsergey wrote: the internal cavities of the case are not under pressure.
in my humble opinion
In 2.5 years I have already changed 6 PROAQUA polypropylene taps out of about 40. Installed at the inlet-outlet of radiators - sawed and watched - flow through the gland (gland - 2 rubber rings). Only leaks when open. In short, I got it.
So, what's the final verdict? Change now (during the heating season) or wait until it ends, and then quietly drain the water and change it yourself?
do not rely on luck if there is at least one percent out of a hundred that an accident can happen, then you need to take measures, especially now you have more or less warm weather there, I think the riser will be turned off without problems
They will turn it off, but they will also take money for it, otherwise I can do it myself in the summer.
by the way, it’s up to you to decide, another problem with aluminum batteries is not recommended to put them on bimetal .. what kind of radiator company, if there are such taps in the kit, such and radiators
And if you change the taps, then the old Americans from the battery also need to be unscrewed and new ones screwed in, or can the old ones be left?
Ay .. tell me about the specialists.
possible but not desirable, and then if the taps are the same
Good afternoon everyone. The situation is similar to that of the topikstarter. I close the batteries, because too hot, taps - Bugatti, installed only in the fall, before heating. season. I close only the top tap of the two. Leaving, I decided to open the taps, one dripped, flowing from under the lamb, only during opening and closing. Doesn't leak in extreme positions. Can anything be done besides replacing the faucet? (he, the bastard, is new, 750r / piece, and here and so the repair is underway.)
Alexander_B wrote: Is there anything else I can do besides replacing the faucet? (he, the bastard, is new, 750r / piece, and here and so the repair is underway.)
If there is a nut on the stem, you can tighten it up a little, until the leak is eliminated. This is a regular situation. Even if it is not possible to eliminate the leak, leave it like that for the heating season, then redo it in the summer when the water is turned off.
Alexander_B wrote: in any case, change the tap or not? Those. Is it out of stock or will it work?
Replacement is necessary only in one case: if it turns out that the taps are fake, or the leak is not eliminated by tightening the nut (which is the same thing: what kind of stem gland design is this that does not allow itself to be tightened?). But then all of them are replaceable.
TRV design
Recently, the installation of TRV has become quite widespread. In some regulatory documents, it is strongly recommended to ensure the presence of control valves in heating networks in order to avoid overheating of the premises and save electricity, as well as to be able to control the temperature and create comfortable conditions for work and leisure.
The heating valve consists of a body of a special design and a stem with a spool, which cover the working area. Temperature control is carried out in two ways:
- Mechanical - adjustment is carried out manually when exposed to the valve stem;
- Automatic - adjustment is carried out autonomously due to the design features.
In the body of such a valve is a thermostatic head, which contains a bellows. It is filled with gas, kerosene or a special substance. As the temperature rises, the components expand or change in physical properties, the bulb expands and pushes the stem out of the bellows. This reduces the supply of heat carrier and reduces energy consumption. When the air cools, everything happens in reverse order: the volume of the filler in the bellows decreases, the rod returns to its previous position, and the coolant flow is restored.
Before installing a heating valve, it is important to remember some things:
It is important to position the bellows horizontally so that it will pick up the temperature correctly. Its incorrect installation will lead to the fact that as a result of exposure to the sensor of heat flows of different directions, the operation of the device will not be entirely effective.
The thermostat should be positioned so that the objects surrounding it do not interfere with its operation and that it does not fall under the direct action of heating devices.
It is better to use the thermostatic valve and the head from the same manufacturer, even if the parts of different brands fit together.
