Structural elements
The expansion tank of the Lada Kalina car is made of transparent polyethylene. The system under consideration is hermetic due to the presence of inlet and outlet valves. The SOD scheme in Kalina provides for the presence of a coolant pump. The body of the device is made of aluminium. A control hole is provided inside the unit, with the help of which a fluid leak is determined when the pump breaks down.
The cooling system of the car engine Lada Kalina consists of 2 circulation circles:
- liquid moves through the jacket and radiator (large circle);
- the liquid moves only along the shirt (small circle).
The SOD scheme provides for constant circulation of the liquid. This does not take into account the position of the thermostat valves. The last device consists of 2 valves that redistribute the flow of coolant. On a cold engine, the fluid circulates in a small circle.
To control the temperature in the system, use a special sensor. It is located in the BC head and is connected to the temperature gauge. With the help of a heating radiator, the interior in Kalina is heated. The device consists of 2 vertical tanks and tubes arranged in 2 rows (horizontally). The last elements are connected to the tanks by means of a rubber gasket.
The liquid enters the system through the upper pipe, and is discharged through the lower one. There is a drain plug at the bottom of the tank. The fan is started by the controller signal. Reasons for the failure of the SOD:
- fluid leakage from the old clamp (install a new unit);
- punctured radiator (repair work in progress).
Lada Kalina hatchback 11193 Chernushka Logbook An unusual malfunction of the heating system
Hello! Let me remind you the story, 2 months ago I bought Kalina 2010 release, I am the second owner. Already at the time of purchase there was a "malfunction" of the heating system, the fan did not work at the second speed. Yes, yes, on the second one. The first, third and fourth worked. Isn't it strange? So it seemed to me, because two standard faults are known in nature: 1. Only the fourth speed works -> then the additional resistor of the heater (more precisely, its fusible element) has broken 100%.2. The first speed does not work -> then the fan motor is probably not rotating well.
And only the second one does not work for me, I started looking for a problem. First, I studied the electrical circuit of the heater, everything is exactly the same as on other vases: the first, second and third speeds come from the switch to an additional resistor of the heater, in which the voltage drops to the corresponding speed. The fourth speed does not need to lower the voltage (as the most powerful one) and is connected directly, bypassing the resistor, therefore, by the way, if the resistor fails, only it works
So, the first thing I pulled out the resistor, in order to open the hatch usually use a small screwdriver, but since. it was not at hand (there are examples when they are looking for it for a long time: www.drive2.ru/cars/lada/k…rnal/4899916394579103812/), I used a folding knife. I pulled out the resistor, rang it, it is fully functional, as expected, since the first and third speeds work. Photo of the resistor (the attentive reader already understood what the problem was, but for me then it was still not obvious):
And what else can break besides the resistor? Probably a switch, I thought. No, well, it’s logical, if switching to the second position doesn’t work, then it doesn’t work. I started to remove the panel: I removed the ashtray, knocked out the lining next to the emergency gang from the inside (by the way, they didn’t want to get it at all) removed the panel and took out the switch. I rang ... it works! Then it became completely sad, because there was nothing more to break in this system))) Seditious thoughts began to creep in, and was it not a break in the wires)
Photo of the contacts of the heater fan operation mode switch:
(numbers correspond to speeds, 1-3 wires are then sent to an additional heater resistor, 4, as I said earlier, is directly connected)
And then it dawned on me! So, three speeds go to the resistor, these are three wires, one more wire comes out of the resistor, so it must have ... 3 + 1, 4 contacts! And my resistor has three and there is no contact just in the place where the second speed comes from the switch! It is a well-known fact that resistors from ten are suitable for Kalina, but as it turned out, there are two types of them! The first type is three contacts (catalogue number: 21100-8118022-00), the second type is 4 contacts (catalogue number: 2123-8118 022), the four-contact one is still used on the Chevrolet Niva. Well, that's it, I went to the store, bought a four-contact resistor, connected it, everything worked))) Apparently, the first owner of the factory resistor broke and he put a three-pin. This is how it happens At the same time, once I removed the panel, I decided to stretch the wires and put the foglight button, I will put the foglights themselves as it will be warm, at -20 there is no desire to do something outside the car)
Thank you for your attention
Why is the car index 111
Indexing, starting at 1, indicates that the car is of a lower class, which is the usual Zhiguli (2 ***).
The new car was originally conceived as a line. In addition to the hatchback and sedan we are used to, we also planned to release a real minivan! Later, this idea was abandoned due to technological difficulties. Instead of a minivan, a station wagon was released under the index. This model was released the latest of its series. I would like to note that initially the designers created the 1119 hatchback model. However, in order not to repeat the mistakes of the VAZ-2108, marketers decided that a four-door sedan should be the first to go into mass production.
Lada Kalina Universal 080 Logbook Refinement of Kalina's cooling system
When the engine cools down, it blows air through the steam outlet hose from the expansion barrel, this happens mainly in winter. And when you start the stove, air boils in the stove radiator and the stove does not heat well. If in doubt, you can read more here www.lkforum.ru/showpost.p...?p=1158931&postcount=1455 here's another www.lkforum.ru/showpost.php?p=1256887&postcount=2
water trap on the steam hose
I took the bolt, cut off the threaded part as much as I needed, drilled it not through and drilled it from the side.
Welded it with tubes (stainless steel), one tube long one short.
I screwed a nut on it and painted it for the look.))
Now the expansion tank: I cut off the crown where the steam outlet hose from the radiator is connected.
Drilling is not necessary, we cut the thread with a tap M12 * 1.75.
And we twist the water seal so that we do not miss the fumka.
Now, instead of air, antifreeze is sucked in through a long tube and air does not enter the cooling system.—Drain the old antifreeze: Unscrew the plug on the radiator in the lower right corner, then open the cover of the expansion tank, well, we also unscrew the plug on the cylinder block, remove the upper radiator hose of the stove of the cabin and blow there to expel the remaining liquid from the stove radiator.—Flush: I screwed the plug on the radiator and started pouring distilled water in the cylinder block for washing, when the water came from the stove hose, put it in place and pulled it up. We start the engine to work for a while so that a large circle opened and drove distilled water through the system (rinse) then drained everything. — Fill in new antifreeze: Fill in antifreeze in the same sequence as distilled water. We drive all the air by putting the car on a hill in front and the left side of the car should be higher, and gas until a large circle opens, it is somewhere around 102-105 * C This is the temperature when the thermostat is open completely dug antifreeze begins to circulate through the radiator and expansion tank. We look at all the smudges, if there are, we eliminate them (tighten the clamps). 10, if it is long, then the system cannot push air through it. I cannot promise that it will work for everyone,but if everything is done correctly, it will work, it circulates through a water seal when a large circle opens. I am happy like an elephant, the stove heats up to death. Thank you for visiting this page.
Self tuning
thermostat failure. To check its performance, visually inspect the radiator pipes. If the top is cold and the bottom is warm, then the thermostat is stuck. In this case, you will need to install a new device;
honeycombs clogged. In this case, the engine overheats in spring or summer. It is recommended to clean the radiator (from the outside);
fan failure. The device does not start due to high coolant heating. It is recommended to check the operation of the relay and wiring;
air in the system. In this case, open the expansion tank. After starting the engine, periodically press the gas (until the red mark is reached). If the fan starts, then they “gas up” after turning off the ignition. If the breakdown is not fixed, then the screen of the power unit is dismantled. Pre-raise the motor, lower the clamp. One pipe is dismantled. The lid is removed, the container breaks through. The tube and cap are put back in place. The engine warms up, the ignition is turned off. Then dismantle the heating tube
Since antifreeze is a toxic substance, it is therefore recommended to drain it carefully (observing safety precautions). Motor must be cold
The tube is put on the fitting, the air is removed.
If the engine is warming up, the SOD Lada Kalina will be upgraded. The finalization of the system consists in the installation of a thermostat with 6 holes. The device is designed to maintain a stable fluid temperature and normalize the operation of interior heating devices. If necessary, install a coolant filter or a stove tap. For quick passage of antifreeze through the channel (with minimal risk of overheating), an additional pump is installed.
The system under consideration is suitable for the C / O and N / O stoves on the VAZ 2110. In the first case, it will be necessary to throttle the output from the SOD. In this case, the stove will only work at high speeds. In order for hot air to flow from the heating unit, press the “gas” pedal. If you reduce the output from the C / O stove, then the pressure in the remote control will rise. To do this, use a throttle or ball valve. Before installing the Kalina SOD in a VAZ, it is recommended to consult with specialists.
Design solutions.
The appearance of Kalina corresponded to the fashionable trends at that time, biodesign was very popular in the 90s, thanks to which the front of the car turned out to be “sweet and smiling”. Thanks to its smooth lines, rounded shapes, the car looked quite modern and harmonious, as evidenced by the fact that it was in demand not only in Russia, but in countries such as Germany, for example.
In addition to the exterior, the designers abandoned the previous developments of the interior, which did not at all correspond to the appearance of the car. This is how the updated salon appeared, which was designed using the latest equipment in mathematical models. The spaciousness and comfort of landing "Kalina" many times exceeded the level of previous models.
They didn't skimp on Kalina's interior design at all, as a result of which the salon turned out to be not only modern, but also very ergonomic.
Let's move on to specific examples. One of them is the mechanism for adjusting the tilt of the seat back. These mechanisms are manufactured by the German company Keiper, which specializes in the development of these units. This is not the only example of the participation of foreign companies in the development of the Kalina interior; the seats were also designed with the help of other foreign companies.
In the late 90s, the Kalina filling differed in many ways from its relatives:
- instrument panel illumination with LEDs;
- electric reverse gear lock;
- factory air conditioning, which could regulate the temperature itself;
- light switch;
- new generation headlights;
- recirculation of the heating system and ventilation system.
The device of the platform - that's what really did not give freedom of action to the designers. The steering rack is located high enough and is attached to the motor shield. Because of this, it is problematic to balance the driving performance of the car. Experimenting with the suspension, "Kalina" managed to give accuracy when cornering, unlike the VAZ-2110.
At first, a 1.6-liter eight-valve engine was installed on Kalina.
However, not everything can be perfect!
The first cars were "famous" for the fact that up to 50% of the power steering turned out to be faulty in them, they simply refused! This significant flaw made a lot of noise among the people, because there were cases when cars turned completely the wrong way.
Later, of course, this defect was corrected by the Kalina designers. The front of the production car was slightly modified, but the light and smooth steering was appreciated (mostly by women). Electric booster instead of hydraulics is the right decision for Kalina.
Thus, by means of experiments with the internal and external appearance of Kalina, by 2001 it acquired its final form. The modified appearance of the Kalina was very reminiscent of the Opel Corsa, and the sedan is similar to the Chevrolet Corsa.
In the end, the designers came out with a car tailored for the B-class. It could be compared with Fiat Palio and Renault Symbol. However, Kalina turned out to be more affordable in its price category and more compact.
So, VAZ managed to create a new generation car, which differed from its predecessors in almost everything, even despite the platform being not the first freshness. In Kalina-2, which is successfully used today, a fairly large number of technical solutions from the old version of Kalina remain.
