General recommendations for warming a frame house from the outside
The first stage of thermal insulation work is vapor barrier. The wall is covered with aluminum foil, polyethylene film or a special vapor barrier film. The most important task of a vapor barrier is to ensure proper ventilation of the facade. Vertical slats are attached to the facade, on top of which a vapor barrier layer is installed, which must be 100% tight.
Between the base rails, it is required to make holes with a diameter of about 20 cm for free air circulation.
The joints of the overlapping strips are glued together (sealed) with a self-adhesive tape. To prevent moisture penetration, areas where the coating is attached with nails or staples are glued with adhesive tape or electrical tape.
The frame for the heat insulator is made of timber about 1 dm wide and 0.4-0.5 dm thick. Then the resulting blanks are attached to the wall parallel to the facade line in such a way that the gap between them and the mineral wool slab is several centimeters smaller than the width of the slab itself.
Installation of mineral wool
Mineral wool blocks are remarkably fixed between the frame crate so that there is no need for their additional fasteners. The laying of mineral wool is carried out in such a way as to minimize the number of gaps and crevices, and the butt lines, where one plate adjoins another, are displaced in relation to each other. Remember that the joints of the inner layer should not fall on the joints of the outer.
The thermal insulation layer is covered with a moisture-retaining film attached to the surface of the frame tree with nails or staples, which provides free access to steam, but prevents the penetration of water.
It should be remembered that at the joints, the waterproofing film overlaps by 0.5-1.0 dm, and it is recommended to use self-adhesive tape to seal the joints so that the insulation goes at the proper level.
As a second frame layer on top of the insulation, 5x3 cm bars are attached to the slats with stacked mineral wool slabs, which is designed to create conditions for the free movement of air flows between the surfaces. In this way, unwanted condensation will be prevented. The openings from below are most often sealed with a thick metal mesh, which will protect the surface of the walls from the penetration of rodents and insects.
https://youtube.com/watch?v=r9UOcn39g0U
By and large, the cladding of the building from the outside performs only a decorating function. In this regard, the choice of building material for cladding can be based on the taste preferences of the owner.
Summing up, we note that the insulation of a frame house is a rather laborious process that requires considerable time, labor and financial costs, so you should approach it responsibly so that the result meets your expectations.
External insulation
Insulation of a frame house, which is carried out outside, involves filling the space between the outer and inner walls of the building with a heat insulator. In order to insulate the planned areas, they resort to the help of mineral wool, as well as polystyrene foam, depending on the goals.
Being very elastic and soft in its structure, mineral wool is perfectly adapted to installation. It is also not affected by temperature deformations exerted on it by walls made of wood. The presence of such positive qualities with a minimum of shortcomings determines the choice of this particular material as the best option for external thermal insulation, if a frame house is insulated.
To insulate the facade of a frame house from the outside as it should, in particular, experts recommend using tow made of jute fiber or felt. After the insulation of the facade of a new frame house is completed on the outside, it is sheathed with a board, which allows you to maintain the original appearance of the building, or covered with plastic siding, which will give your house a modern attractive look without excessive financial costs.
It should be noted that insulation wooden house outside - work that is best done in the warm season, when the temperature is most comfortable, and the walls of the house are not subject to excessive moisture, for example, as a result of precipitation.
Thermal insulation landmarks
The ease of construction of the structure is smoothed out by a scrupulous attitude to insulation. With the need to fill the space between the walls, the relative accessibility of the installation of the structure is complicated by the work on the insulation of the facade from the outside. With the growth of consumer interest in frame houses, there is a corresponding expansion of the range of various heaters.
However, in order not to make a mistake in choosing a high-quality thermal insulation material, it is recommended to pay attention to the main parameters listed below:
- Coefficient of thermal conductivity;
- Low water absorption;
- fire safety;
- Ecological purity.
It is believed that the lower the thermal conductivity of a particular heat insulator, the more difficult it will be for warm or cold air masses to penetrate both from inside and outside the room. The minimum level of thermal conductivity will provide good savings on the payment of energy resources, in particular, heating.
Turning to the section SNiP "Thermal protection of buildings", you can get much more information on the issue of interest to you for a particular region, where there are their own standards.
As for water absorption, its value should tend to a minimum, since water is a good conductor of heat. The technical documentation that is attached to a particular building material must contain the value of water absorption. It is usually expressed as a percentage.
The degree of fire safety of any insulation can be found in GOSTs, which assign the material a certain standard coefficient of combustibility and flammability. For this, the following symbols are used: NG - non-combustible, G - combustible. With an increase in intensity and a tendency to ignite, heaters are labeled "G1", "G2", etc.
Of course, an important aspect in the purchase of insulation is environmental friendliness, which is determined by its component composition, namely, those toxic components that were used in its production. Therefore, one of the main requirements for modern waterproofing is the absence of a negative impact on the health of the inhabitants of the house where it is supposed to be used.
In addition to the factors listed above, there are a number of secondary factors, whose cumulative influence, however, cannot be ignored. This
the best weight and density of materials to minimize the load on the frame and foundation of the building. Immunity of the material to temperature changes. The possibility of not resorting to the use of exterior decorative processing of insulation, including cladding, which will significantly reduce the total cost of waterproofing the facade.
The price of the purchased material, which for most specialists plays one of the key roles, since a rare owner can afford not to take into account this factor and, first of all, make his choice based on preferences regarding the quality and safety of the purchased products.
Useful video
Do-it-yourself foam insulation:
Penoplex occupies one of the leading positions among modern insulation materials. It is used in both industrial and private construction, due to its excellent performance characteristics. The material also shows good results when used in wooden houses. Today, the question practically does not arise whether it is possible to insulate a wooden house with foam plastic, since most owners of log buildings have already experienced this insulation in practice and were very satisfied. In the article we will analyze in detail the characteristics of the material, as well as dwell on its types. In addition, you will learn how to properly perform thermal insulation with foam plastic with your own hands.
Do-it-yourself insulation of the roof of a frame house
Very often, instead of the ceiling, and sometimes together with the ceiling, the roof of the frame house is also insulated with mineral wool. This is usually done in cases where the attic space is residential and heated.
The insulation technology practically does not differ from the thermal insulation of the ceiling, except that a waterproofing material must be stretched over the insulation to protect the insulation from an external aggressive environment.
This is how the heat-insulating layer of mineral wool on the roof of a frame house looks like in the diagram:
Here are a few features that will help facilitate the process of warming with your own hands:
- The roof, as well as the ceiling, is more convenient to insulate from the outside, because the installation of mineral wool from the inside is, firstly, inconvenient, and secondly, this material tends to crumble on the head and face.
- After installing the rafter system, it is necessary to hem a vapor barrier layer from below, on which, just as in the case of the ceiling, fill the lining material, board or plywood from the inside.
- Now lay the sheets of insulation outside, adhering to all the same rules as when insulating other parts of the frame house.
- A waterproofing membrane is laid on top of the insulation, on which the counter-lattice, crate and roofing material are already stuffed.
It is worth noting that it is possible to insulate the roof from the inside, if it is fully assembled. But this is much more inconvenient, because you will have to come up with some kind of temporary fasteners before pulling on the vapor barrier material so that the insulation does not fall out.
