Introduction
For a long time in the field of air cooling systems for central processors, we have not seen any innovations and truly interesting solutions to increase efficiency while reducing noise levels. So manufacturers have to update their cooler lines and attract potential buyers in other ways, in particular by equipping devices with two fans at once. This trend has indeed been observed recently, since this is the simplest and, as you probably understand, the cheapest way to increase efficiency without a significant impact on the final price of the product. In particular, Thermaltake, having previously shown it at CES 2013, in March of this year announced four new coolers of the NiC (Non-interference Cooler) series at once, three of which are equipped with two fans. Phanteks, a less prolific company in this regard, also released a new product, which also has a pair of fans in its arsenal. There are other companies that have recently introduced coolers with two "turntables" in their assortment. That is, it is quite possible to talk about a kind of fashion for two fans in processor coolers. We'll find out how all this turned out on the example of Phanteks PH-TC12DX and Thermaltake NiC C5 coolers.
Models and their differences
Models of such devices differ from each other mainly only in size and power, both the heating element and the fan. The power range is very wide and can vary from 2 to 90 kW, when creating an air flow with an intensity of one to several tens of thousands of cubic meters per hour. Thanks to this variety, many models with low power are quite suitable for use at home, since in any case they provide significant savings, because electricity is consumed only to ensure the operation of the fan.
Therefore, a small fan heater with a water source of heat is best suited if standard devices are not enough to heat an apartment or office in winter, since even a large number of such devices will not create a high level of electricity consumption. Moreover, it is thanks to the saving of resources that it is possible, if necessary, to buy a larger number of devices in the event of a breakdown of some part or other unforeseen situation.
According to the design of the housing, fan heaters are divided into two types:
- floor;
- wall.
Wall models are equipped with a special mounting console, which allows you to adjust the vertical position of the device and direct the hot air jet in the right direction. There is nothing complicated in the installation of such fans, it is enough just to fix the console on the wall with anchor bolts and connect the water circuit to the device itself.
With minimal technical knowledge, this can be done by hand, without calling a specialist. Floor options do not require fixing and fasteners, they only need a connection to the water supply, so they can be installed in any part of the room and, if necessary, easily moved to another place. The price of wall and floor models practically does not differ and is determined mainly by power, and not by design features.
Some industrial models can be connected to both hot and cold circuits at the same time. A water fan heater with two circuits can work both for heating and cooling a room or a separate part of it. The cold circuit is connected in the same way as the hot one, from the central water supply. The price of such models is slightly higher, but it is better to buy just such a device than separate heating and cooling systems.
Water heaters with fan
Asama Trade LLC supplies climate equipment manufactured in accordance with modern requirements for energy efficiency.We offer water heaters with a fan (water heat guns), which are designed to maintain the required temperature conditions in industrial, warehouse, agricultural and administrative buildings, sales areas, offices and residential buildings. A feature of water heaters with a fan is that they can quickly and evenly heat a large amount of air, including in buildings with high ceilings.
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Type: Wall mounted room thermostat with fan speed control
Temperature setting range: +10 to +30 °C
Operating temperature range of the device: from 0 to +40 °C
Speed control: Yes, three-stage
Country of manufacture: Poland
Warranty period: 1 year
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Heating power: 9.6 kW
Air exchange: 1200 m³/hour
Maximum jet length: 8.5 m
Batteries blown by a fan
I am doing repairs, I am going to sew up the batteries (by adding ventilation grilles), naturally, the heat transfer will worsen. To improve heat transfer, I plan to blow the batteries (if necessary) with built-in fans. Are there any restrictions on this? After all, with effective blowing, I can pick up more than it is calculated according to the project. I pay warmly according to the norms, there is no separate meter, apartment 15.
especially more on the pick-up in the room is calculated 20 * C - you will not heat it up to 40.
20 is not always the case. I plan to tie the fans to the sensor, set the system to 22 degrees. Another sensor on the battery, so that it doesn’t thresh in vain when the heating is turned off. Though. What prevents to use as a fan in the summer, if necessary. Plus, of course, dust filters.
they will make noise. They will interfere with sleep.
Plumbing work Moscow and the region
3-4, from the length of the batteries, computer. I have a lot of them. Plus underestimated power, volt 9, to reduce speed. In this case, a jet stream is not needed. We get a stream of warm air, something like a fan heater. Maybe add comfort? Then, the distribution of heat around the room is more even. The cost of electricity for the battery is 20 watts, a little. It will not work all the time, but when the temperature in the room drops. The fans themselves have a large gap between the blades, which will provide natural air convection when off. fans.
Be bold. It is written in the PTE that the return line can be omitted as much as you like. Thermal workers will only thank you, especially if the heating is steam. When you pile the story, plz, pictures. I really want to look, we can take it into service.
yes, but here you just don’t need to forget that if the coolant supply to the radiators at some point becomes lower than planned and the fans work, then I think this will not add heat, since the cumulative effect will be blown out ahead of time
you need to think with which radiators this scheme is more correct to use cast iron or aluminum, for example, the rate of heat transfer and cooling is different for them
As for the fans, I have not seen any prohibitions. They produce convectors with fans.
2sansei I will put a sensor on the air temperature and on the temperature in the battery (a cheap option is some diodes in reverse), I will make a circuit so that the fans spin when the air temperature is below 22 degrees, plus the temperature in the battery is higher than the air temperature, for me it is not difficult. My batteries are cast iron. About airflow. I think it's better sideways, ie. upstairs and so warm.
2a-x-e-l-1 I will definitely take pictures, here the results may not be in time, it is not known when it will become warm and the batteries will be turned off, but I have ceilings first, then the lining of the batteries.
Yesterday I put 4 fans on 2 bars, on top of the battery, connected it (however, I didn’t find a powerful power supply unit, due to repair somewhere in the boxes, which is weak, sat down to 8V).I liked the effect, there is warm air, something like a heater. True, all this is still purely for testing, after sewing, a full-fledged airflow will be formed. Sound on 8V is not audible. The power consumption of one fan is 1.5 W, four - 6 W. You can leave it on without problems, without fear of electricity bills, you shouldn’t even fuss with electronics, just a switch. If anyone wants to repeat, work more carefully with 220V, after all, the battery is grounded, it is better to put the trans in a separate box, further from the battery, lead only 12V to the battery. My 12V wiring will be done from the ceiling. I plan to fix the fans from above, right on a narrow grille, through foamed polyethylene gaskets so that I can get it together with the grille, between the fans and the grille I will use a non-woven material as a filter (I don’t know what it’s called, it’s available), the bottom of the box also has a narrow grille with a filter. Behind the wall behind the battery I will glue a heat insulator with foil, why heat the street. It is better to use acrylic putty on the seams of the structure, it will not dust on the reverse side of the plasterboard structure, treat the sections with a primer.
Photos in the studio. So, what, the air flow goes down?
Acceleration of the heating battery
Off-season. It's cold outside. Utilities, faggots, zhmotit heating. Batteries heat up to the floor. Oak houses. The bald cat freezes and suffers. How long?! You think I ran for an electric heater? Hell two! Our method is to overclock the heating battery.
So, according to the standards for each room there should be a certain number of sections of the heating battery. The quantity depends on the size. The average power of one section of a cast-iron or aluminum radiator is about 200W. But this is passive heat transfer, and heat can be forcibly taken away! This is what we'll do
▌Steal the loot! If the battery is warm at the output, then there is where to snatch more energy. There is potential for overclocking! A good overclocking is unthinkable without good cooling! Therefore, we are moving after the coolers.
I decided not to worry and bought the most deshman coolers. 40 a piece. Regular x 80x80x25. They are exactly the width of the radiator section. I immediately took a dozen:
Then he connected them with ties into a mighty battery:
For connection I used plastic ties:
It's fast, simple and reliable. If you tighten it well, it will be like cast.
Then we connect all the propellers in parallel. Yellow wire, if any, bite off and discard. It's a speed sensor, we don't need it. And all the reds are connected together with the reds. Black with black.
It remains to pick up the connector:
If there is no connector, then it does not matter. You can stupidly twist the wires with the power supply.
And take the power supply from the router. Any block can be taken. If only he gave a current of 1A and the output voltage was constant, i.e. DC. The voltage itself can be from 5 to 15 volts. The higher the voltage, the more efficient, but the noisier. At 15 volts, the battery turns into a powerful fan heater, pumping the room in a matter of minutes.
I took 5 volts. He was just at hand. With it, the coolers barely rotate, they are almost inaudible, and the battery is enough.
I put everything on the battery with plastic ties 
Connected the power ... Let's go!
Yes, you need to hang them in such a way as to blow the radiator as efficiently as possible. My radiator has parallel fins inside. On them, air moves from bottom to top by convection. Therefore, I set the fans so that they accelerate this convection, blowing from the bottom up.
On a cast-iron battery, there may be another optimal location. For example, blow from the side or front. In general, look and decide for yourself. The ideal option would be to completely cool the battery to room temperature.
And, of course, you can not block the battery from the coolers, but take an ordinary household fan and direct it to the radiator. The effect will not be worse.
And this battery has a nice bonus.If you are not the last member of the heat chain, then your nasty neighbors who listen to music loudly or stomp over your head will freeze the hell out along with cockroaches!
The same method can be used to increase the power of electric radiators. Of course, they will not eat less electricity - the law of conservation of energy is unshakable. With forced pumping, they simply stop turning off. But there is also a plus in this, firstly, the radiator will not be so hot, it is more difficult to get burned. And secondly, the load on the power grid will be much lower, the machines will not knock out how much in vain. After all, a constantly running 800W radiator is much less hardcore for wiring than a 3KW monster that clicks back and forth like an iron. And in terms of power output, they will be approximately equal.
Z.Y. This creatif was born when the CA complained to me in ICQ that his ass was freezing. To which he was sent for coolers, and after a small upgrade of the radiator in his apartment, Africa still came. Here are his photos. 
That's some bullshit, little ones. Cold battery for you and a warm apartment
We make a convector from an ordinary battery
Water heating radiators, or simply batteries used in centralized heating systems, distribute heat throughout the rooms according to the principle of passive convection. This approach is not very rational in terms of heat loss, especially if the battery is in the corner of the room.
For this reason, there are convection radiators equipped with a fan that improve the distribution of heat throughout the room, accelerating the circulation of air between the sections of the battery.
In this master class, I will show you how to upgrade a regular battery to a convector one with your own hands.
Step 1: Fan Assembly
I took 4 fans Brushless DC Cooling Fan 7 Blade 24V 120mmx120mx25mm.
This type of fan is very quiet and was well sized for my battery. A connection of 4 such fans is enough for my pipe in length.
Fan specifications: - 7 plastic blades - speed 1600 rotations per minute - airflow 58 cu. ft/min. - Noise 38 dB. - Power supply: DC 24V, 0.20A
These fans cost me 1200 rubles with delivery. Structural strength is provided by cable ties that go through holes in the corner of each fan and tie them together.
Step 2: Connecting the wires
The fans use standard 2-pin connectors like motherboards. They hold copper cables well. You can also combine the 2 connectors with a small piece of cable by inserting one into the back of the second.
This will help reduce the number of cables connecting the fans to the power supply. The power supply is connected by a 2-wire AC cable on one side and DC cables from the fans on the other.
The photo does not show the switch and the standard plug on the end of the AC cable. I took the power supply like this - 24V Universal Regulated Switching 25W Power Supply.
Step 3: Checking the operation of the fans
I connected the fans and checked their operation before installing under the battery.
Step 4: Legs and other finishing touches
I supplied my fans with 4 legs from a corner cut into 15 cm pieces. Then I just put the section under the battery. As a result, I got an excellent distribution of heat throughout the room, using almost silent fans, consuming a total of 24 watts:
- fans: 4*0.2A*24V=19.2W - power consumption: 80% of total supply - total power: 19.2/80%=24W
This is how I upgraded my standard hot water heater to a convection radiator.
Thermaltake NiC C5 CLP0608
As we already mentioned in the introduction of today's article, Thermaltake released four coolers of the new NiC line at once. Model C5 (CLP0608) is the oldest and most expensive of them. A series of coolers of the NiC series (Non-interference Cooler - in the literal translation "non-interference cooler") is designed specifically for systems with memory modules equipped with high heatsinks, which have recently become very popular.
The box, made of thick cardboard, is no less informative than Phanteks. Here are technical specifications, and a description of key features with photos, and a list of supported platforms.
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Inside the cardboard box there are soft polyurethane inserts in the form of a cooler in which it is fixed. Accessories are sealed in a separate box.These include steel rails and a set of fasteners, a plastic reinforcing plate, as well as instructions and thermal paste.
The Thermaltake NiC C5 costs $5 more than Phanteks, which is $55. The cooling system comes with a three-year warranty. The country of production is China.
Thermaltake NiC C5 is a bright and eye-catching mid-sized cooler. The red frames of the fans contrast with the black impellers and black plastic "shells" that cover the radiator.
It is simply impossible not to pay attention to such a cooler. It is 160mm high, 148mm wide and only 93mm thick, which is really not much for a dual-fan cooler.
The fans are mounted on blow-out and fixed in plastic shells that leave the sides of the radiator open ...
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…as well as its top and bottom in the heatpipe areas.
The radiator itself is assembled with 52 aluminum plates 0.4 mm thick, pressed onto heat pipes with an intercostal distance of 1.7 mm.
The area of such a radiator is slightly larger than that of the Phanteks PH-TC12DX - it is 5780 cm2.
Five six-millimeter nickel-plated heat pipes are soldered to the base in grooves, in which they are laid without gaps.
Nickel-plated copper plate with dimensions of 40x40 mm and a minimum thickness of 1.5 mm (under the tubes) is perfectly polished.
However, unlike the Phanteks blade, its evenness leaves much to be desired. The bulge in the center of the base did not fail to affect the usefulness of the contact between the cooler heatsink and the processor heat spreader.
Two 120x120x25 mm fans rotate synchronously and are equipped with a speed controller.
It is installed on a short cable extending from the three-pin connector for connecting fans to the motherboard.
In our opinion, this method of adjustment is inconvenient, since to change the fan speed each time you have to open the case of the system unit. As for the fans themselves, they are interesting in the shape of the blades, consisting of two sail-shaped halves.
In the description of Thermaltake NiC C5, this solution is not explained in any way, which is strange, because marketers love such “features” so much. In our opinion, these blades are made to increase the pressure of the air flow pumped between the radiator fins, because NiC C5 turned out to be relatively dense.
The fan speed can be adjusted from 1000 to 2000 rpm. Maximum airflow is claimed at 99.1 CFM, static pressure is 2.99 mm H2O, and the noise level should vary between 20 and 39.9 dBA.
The sticker on the 40mm stator shows the name of the fan model and its electrical specifications.
With 3.8 W for each turntable declared in the specifications, one fan consumed a little more than 4 W, which is twice as much as Phanteks. But the starting voltage turned out to be slightly lower - 3.8 V. Cable length - 300 mm. The bearing is conventional - sliding, with a standard service life of 40,000 hours, or more than 4.6 years of continuous operation.
The installation procedure for NiC C5 is detailed in the instructions, but in our case - for a platform with an LGA2011 connector - it is no different from installing Phanteks PH-TC12DX.
After being installed on the board, the distance to the lower border of the Thermaltake NiC C5 is only 36 mm.
However, as we mentioned above, it's narrower than most other dual-fan coolers, so it's unlikely to get in the way of installing RAM modules with tall heatsinks.
In terms of height, Thermaltake is only 3 mm higher than Phanteks, therefore, most likely, it will also fit in narrow cases of system units without any problems.
Well, it looks, in our opinion, more attractive. However, the taste and color, as they say ...
Where can I buy
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