How to block the heating riser
The heating tower belongs to the common property. It must be blocked by employees of the service organization who have the right to do so.
If you follow the letter of the law, you must come to the DEZ, ZhEK, DEU, etc. write an application, pay for the service at the cash desk. At a certain time (specify in the application), a representative of the service organization should come and shut off the valve in the basement.
How much does it cost to turn off the heating riser? This is a tricky question. The thing is, there are no fixed prices. There is a price list for services, but it is only a recommendation. In fact, each organization sets its own rates. On average, you will have to pay from $15 to $20 for this operation.
The valve that shuts off the heating supply is located in the basement of the house
There is a workaround. Negotiate with neighbors and independently block the riser without the knowledge of the campaign. But you know that this is not always possible: neighbors are different. If in the summer, when the heating is turned off, such actions can meet with understanding, then during the season it is unlikely. There is another difficulty: it is not always easy to find a heating valve. You either need to have a communications plan, or just know where it is. They usually know a locksmith. But they will not block the riser for nothing, and will require at least $ 10-15. Savings, it seems, are, but small. And if this fact becomes known to the management or operating company, you face substantial fines.
Whom to entrust the execution of work
Since you still have to pay, it is better to do everything at once. In any case, with all the radiators on the same riser. And then the question arises: who will carry out these works. To get started, you can go to the Housing Office or DEU, ask about their prices. As a rule, the prices there are rather big, and the quality of work is not up to par. To verify this, you can ask your neighbors who have already dealt with them.
You can find a private owner. Only not from ads, but on the recommendations of acquaintances, colleagues, friends. Their rates are rarely higher than those of operators. And the quality is better - this is their bread: if they do a bad job, there will be no customers. Therefore, they try (if they are sane) to do everything honestly.
Choosing an artist is not an easy task.
There is still an opportunity to negotiate with a housing office employee bypassing the cash desk. But this is debatable. Firstly, they tend to ask for a price based on the wealth of the client and it is far from a fact that they will require less than the price list. Rather, more. And why, tell me, for the same quality of work (it is unlikely that they will work more diligently than at their main job) to pay more?
Another option is to contact a specialized organization. And again, it is desirable according to the recommendations. Although, organizations are forced to monitor the quality of work for prosaic reasons: they need customers. If they have a bad reputation, no one will go to them
Therefore, if you do not know the organization, there are no recommendations, you can pay attention to the period of its existence on the market. If it’s not a year or two already, then it’s clear that they know how to do something, otherwise they wouldn’t have existed for so long
Naturally, pay attention to the services they provide. Many offer questions with permission and disconnection of risers, coordination with the managing or operating organization to take over. You only stipulate the list of works and time. How much will it cost? Different: organizations, like their leaders, are different. It may be more expensive than the work of a locksmith from the housing office, but at least you will have someone to present claims in case of problems: you sign an agreement that clearly states who does what.
And the most economical option: do everything yourself, with your own hands. It's not an easy task, but it's not the gods who burn the pots. Only first you need to find out everything to the smallest detail, purchase everything you need, prepare tools and equipment, and only after that write an application to turn off the riser.
It all concerned planned repair or maintenance work. If the radiator or pipe is leaking, you definitely have to act on your own. How to fix a radiator leak, read here.
How to close the battery
To perform some work, it is only necessary to turn off the radiator:
If shut-off valves are installed - ball valves. it is simple to do this: you need to turn the cock handle to the stop on the supply and return pipes. The coolant flow is blocked, the heater can be removed.
If there are ball valves in front of the radiator, they are closed and the radiator is removed
Sometimes a manual control valve is installed on the supply. It can also shut off the supply of coolant, but its main function is to regulate: it is installed to maintain a constant temperature in the room.
If the heating season is over, by closing the taps, you can safely remove the radiator. If there is a need to perform work during the heating period, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarity of the installation. In a single-pipe system with vertical wiring, shutdown without shutting down the system is only possible if a bypass is present.
A single-pipe system with vertical wiring looks like this: one pipe comes out of the ceiling, enters the radiator, the second one comes out of another hole in the battery and goes to the floor.
The bypass is a jumper in front of the radiator. It connects the supply and return pipes. It is performed, as a rule, with a pipe size one step smaller than the diameter of the liner.
If there is a bypass, then when the radiator is turned off, the coolant continues to circulate through the riser, but already goes through this jumper. As a result, no one suffers: the neighbors are warm, you carry out the required work.
Bypass is a jumper in front of the battery. In the photo on the right, although there is a bypass, there is nothing to shut off the battery: there are no ball valves
When connecting according to a two-pipe scheme, there are no problems: there are taps, close them, remove the radiator. With a single-pipe system, but with horizontal wiring, jumpers are also needed. But, in their absence, you will freeze your apartment.
In general, a bypass is a very necessary element: if necessary, it allows you to install a thermostat (thermostat) at the radiator inlet, with which you can maintain a constant temperature in the room. Without this jumper, the installation of control devices is prohibited. It's just that without it, it turns out that you regulate not only the temperature of your battery, but also the entire riser, which the neighbors are unlikely to like.
But only the presence of a bypass does not guarantee the possibility of disconnecting the battery during the heating season. There should also be ball valves on the supply and return. Moreover, it is better to take full-bore taps for heating batteries. There are also standard ones. In them, the clearance in the open position is approximately 70-80% of the diameter. In full bore models, it is 100%. To ensure normal heat transfer, they are needed.
The battery can be disconnected at any time if there are ball valves at its inlet and outlet. But so that the heat transfer does not fall, it is necessary to install full bore models
If there is no bypass, to carry out all these works, you will have to turn off the riser, and this is not done soon, and even for a fee.
How to protect yourself from water shutdown
Everything is much simpler when it comes to a private house, in the yard of which there is a well. In such a situation, the problem actually exhausts itself. For convenience, it is possible to provide for the additional installation of a pump that would supply water from a column or well to the general system of the house.It is more difficult to form a water supply in an apartment or in a private house located in regions where it is not so easy to get to groundwater or their quality leaves much to be desired. The solution to the problem can be a volumetric water storage tank, which is regularly replenished at that time when water is supplied normally. With proper installation and connection, water from the reserve tank can be sent to the apartment’s water supply system without loss of pressure, which will allow, for example, to freely use a gas water heater or an electric boiler. From such an option as installing a pump that would pump up the remaining water in the public water supply system, better to refuse. Firstly, you may not be the only smart guy in the area, then there simply won’t be enough water for a long time. Secondly, it is most likely that air jams will form in the pipes, which will subsequently cause a water hammer effect when the water supply is turned on, and this threatens with great breakdowns. Again, the water utility can fine you for this.
Is it possible to block the radiator for the summer
All operating organizations declare that the system is not drained for the summer, but cold coolant is “driven”. In reality, the system is drained: for repair, replacement of pipes or equipment, etc. And although all radiator manufacturers say that it can stand without water for two weeks (or a week) a year, no one guarantees that the system will be filled in two weeks. This situation is not critical for copper and copper-aluminum radiators - copper generally still has oxygen or not - it practically does not react to its presence in any way (after an oxide film has formed on the surface).
To avoid damage to radiators, after the end of the season, many close the radiators with ball valves. But this cannot be done: the battery can simply break.
If you close the radiator for the summer and do not open the air vent, the battery can simply break
The fact is that in the presence of water in the radiator, chemical processes occur, which are accompanied by the release of gases. When the taps are closed, the possibility of their exit is cut off. Gases accumulate more and more inside, creating excess pressure. As soon as it exceeds the tensile strength, the battery will burst. And this will not be a warranty case: the operating conditions are violated.
This problem is relevant for aluminum. cast iron, bimetallic and steel radiators. That is, for everyone. But what to do? And so bad, and so bad. And the way out is this: close the battery, but at the same time open the air vent.
If you turn off the radiator for the summer, make sure that the air vents are open and in working order.
Today, every modern radiator has this device. Most often - the Mayevsky crane. This is a small washer with a hole, through which, after starting the system and during the heating season, it is necessary to bleed air. In manual models, to do this, turn the screw counterclockwise with a key or screwdriver. In automatic bleed occurs as air appears. But even here there is a twisting cap that blocks the exit of gases. So. If you decide to close the battery for the summer, make sure that the air vents are open and the air is bled (not clogged). It also doesn’t hurt to make sure at least once a month that the air vent is still open, otherwise you never know: the children played, or someone twisted it out of distraction ...
Bathroom and toilet renovation tutorials
Lesson 1. Planning a DIY bathroom and toilet renovation Lesson 2. How to start a bathroom renovation Start of dismantling work Lesson 3. How to remove old paint from the walls in the bathroom and toilet Lesson 4. How to remove the concrete threshold in the bathroom and toilet Lesson 5. How to prepare the ceiling in the bathroom for painting or false ceiling Lesson 6. Is it necessary to replace the water risers Lesson 7. How to block water supply risers in the apartment Lesson 8.Which pipes are best for plumbing in an apartment Lesson 9. Do-it-yourself plumbing Lesson 10. How to hang a heated towel rail in the bathroom Lesson 11. Which water meter is best for an apartment Lesson 12. Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in the bathroom Lesson 13. Leveling the walls and floor in the bathroom Lesson 14. Wallpaper for the bathroom, kitchen , toilet Lesson 15. Which tile to choose for the bathroom Lesson 16. A notched trowel is a miracle of human invention Lesson 17. Materials and tools for laying tiles Lesson 18. How to lay tiles on the floor with your own hands Lesson 19. How to cut tiles and what when facing Lesson 20. How to drill tiles and how when facing Lesson 21. How to lay tiles on the wall Lesson 22. Which bath to choose for home Lesson 23. How to install a cast-iron bath Lesson 24. How to install an acrylic bath Lesson 25. Laying tiles on the wall in the bathroom with your own hands Lesson 26. How to lay tiles on the outer corner of the bathroom Lesson 27 Sparks from a grinder can kill your tile Lesson 28. How to replace floor or wall tiles Lesson 29. How to choose a faucetUr ok 30. How to change the faucet with your own hands Lesson 31. How to install a ventilation grill in the bathroom Lesson 32. How to choose a door for the bathroom Lesson 33. Grille on the bath Lesson 34. How to install a toilet bowl with your own hands Lesson 35. What to do if the water pressure in the apartment has weakened Lesson 36. What to do if the sink is clogged Lesson 37
> Tip 1: How to turn off the water in one apartment
How to shut off the heating riser and start it after repair
bottom filling
Having completed these works, it is possible to close the discharges and very slowly fill the system with water. The slowness of this process is due to the fact that when the system is quickly filled, water hammer can occur. If there are screw valves, the water must move in the direction indicated by the arrow located on the body - otherwise the valve may break, after which the heating system throughout the house will have to be reset.
Then you can open the valve completely and release the air pressure on the upper floor. The Mayevsky crane is usually located in the radiator cap or at the top of the jumper. Resetting and starting will be greatly simplified if all valves installed in the system are ball valves.
Top filling
Having finished the work, you can close the discharge and fill the riser very slowly. It is imperative to observe the direction of water movement. Both valves can now be opened. There is no need to bleed air: it will move into the attic expansion tank.
How to block the water supply risers for hot and cold water
If you do not know in principle how to turn off the water in the apartment, be sure to read the article to the end. So, water comes to our apartment through plumbing risers. Risers are such long pipes, usually going from floor to ceiling. If you live on the top floor, then the configuration may be different. In many Khrushchev and Brezhnevka apartments, the risers are in the toilet. However, in some old houses, in addition to the toilet, they can also be found in the kitchen.
The main purpose of the risers is to supply hot and cold water to the apartment. If the house does not have a gas column, then as a rule you have 2 risers: for cold and hot water. If the house has a gas water heater, then there is only one riser - with cold water.
For safety reasons, it is very important that there are reliable valves at the entrance to the apartment, with the help of which you can easily turn off the water at any time and turn it on again. Ball valves are the best choice in this case.
On pipes they look like this:
Ball valves are the best choice in this case. On pipes they look like this:
Their reliability has been tested by time. In apartments, ball valves are usually used in sizes 1/2 inch, 3/4 inch, 1 inch. It just so happened that they are measured not in millimeters, but in inches.Hence the plumbers talking: "I gave you half an inch." Or "Let's bet on three-quarters."
If instead of ball valves you have something incomprehensible: something very old, difficult to turn by hand or, even worse, leaking, my advice to you is to change it immediately! When water suddenly pours out of these taps, it will be a disaster! After all, it is this water that will have nothing to stop! You will flood yourself and all the neighbors from below. Do not think that the emergency service will save you, they simply will not have time. If the fountain goes on, then in half an hour you will flood the whole house and you will have problems for life! Therefore, in a new apartment, before you are going to glue the wallpaper, level the walls, whitewash the ceilings, check the inlet water valves and install good, proven ones.
In this catalog you will find high-quality ball valves: Valtec, Bugatti, etc.
My personal experience is only Italian or German ball valves! They are more expensive. In no case do not save on plumbing accessories. (About a sad experience). If it’s really bad with funds, it’s better to put a simpler toilet, sink or bath. But all the details that connect the pipes together must be of excellent quality! Follow this rule for the rest of your life. By the way, I have described pipes in great detail in this article.
Entrust the installation of ball valves to a master plumber. But first, read my article Choosing a master, so that a professional really comes to you. What diameter to install a crane is a very individual topic, the master himself will advise you. But you must rest on the fact that the apartment has a good pressure of water, both hot and cold. Also tell the master to put only high-quality parts!
By reading my blog, you are probably doing repairs. Add this page to your bookmarks. All useful home improvement stores are located here.
I'll tell you a secret that a true professional will evaluate your requirements, although he will warn you that it will be more expensive. The fact is that it is much more convenient for the master himself to work with high-quality material, since the reliability of his work increases significantly. Both you and him will be much calmer that you took this topic seriously.
Now, a few tips. When you have installed ball valves and turned on the water, do not forget to turn off the risers once every 3 months, and then turn them on, that is, just close each of the taps:
and then reopen:
This is important so that the taps do not stagnate in one position! It is necessary to periodically monitor how they open and close. If you feel that something is not right - call the master
Ball valves on risers are no joke, just like electricity!
Finally, do not forget to properly operate the risers, for which read my article: How to protect your water supply riser in the apartment.
So, today we have learned how to shut off the water supply risers in an apartment for cold and hot water and what you need to pay attention to when choosing and replacing taps. Interesting, how often did you change ball valves in your apartment?
Problem
The main problem that my relatives told me about was the absolutely cold radiators in two adjacent rooms, while in other rooms the radiators got noticeably warmer with the start of the heating season.
For comparison:
- In rooms with warm radiators, the average daily temperature was +17C;
- In rooms with non-working heating + 13C.
As they say, feel the difference...
For several days, calls from neighbors and relatives in the heating network ended in approximately the same way - nothing, because. the house is cooperative, and its maintenance is not within their competence, with the exception of emergency cases.
And for a cooperative of 60 apartments (4 entrances), where more than half of the residents are people of deep retirement age, it was unprofitable to maintain its permanent plumber.The part-time specialist only made sure that there were no leaks during the start-up of the system, and nothing more.
Searching of decisions
Upon arrival, the first thing I do is check the taps on the radiators and on the bypasses - all in the open position in both rooms. I open the Mayevsky taps on each radiator - a thin stream of water informs that there is pressure in the system, but the radiator is not airy. But you need to find out if there is a coolant in the system at all.
For this purpose, I go to the basement of the house. From the elevator node I determine the direction and find "my" supply and return pipes.
Having reached the location of the apartments of our entrance, I see two - supply and return. To the touch, both pipes differ quite noticeably, so it was not difficult to determine that the colder one is the return line.
I use my hands again - both risers are cold, although literally a meter from this site the temperature was more than comfortable. The reason is the airing of the system on the upper fifth floor, which is why the coolant does not circulate.
I leave the basement and go to get acquainted with the neighbors of the upper floor, along the way asking other residents about the presence of stopcocks and their condition. As you would expect, everyone has cast iron radiators installed 30 years ago.
In Khrushchev houses there is no technical floor, so the coolant is supplied from below from the basement. For clarity, the operation of the heating system, I propose to consider the diagram below.
We return to the apartment of the fifth floor. Cast-iron radiators for 12 and 7 sections were installed in two rooms of the pensioners' family. It was they who had to be aired.
The only method available for this is with the help of a nipple (a prototype of the Mayevsky crane) embedded in the radiator cap.
Armed with tools:
- Old galvanized bucket of 12 liters;
- pliers;
- Two screwdrivers with a flat sting;
- A few floor rags - splashes will be inevitable.
Since a lot of splashing is expected, I provide a place to work around the radiator - I clean and move the furniture away
Then I take a screwdriver and carefully, so as not to lick the edges, unscrew the screw counterclockwise
- The old system did not succumb on the first try, I had to use pliers - with their help I turned the screwdriver until the screw moved from its stuck place;
- The hiss of air marked the beginning of the release of the airlock. Within 3-4 minutes, the air left the radiator, after which cold water flowed in a thin stream;
- Having adjusted the screw in such a way that water poured into the substituted bucket, I gave time - about half an hour, when the bucket was half full, the temperature of the water changed from ice to warm, after which I screwed the screw back.
I did the same operation with the cast-iron battery in the other room. A few hours later, the apartments became noticeably warmer - the thermometer showed a rise of a couple of degrees. Of course, there is no need to talk about a complete solution to the problem of cold in an apartment, because. the temperature of the coolant is far from 75C, but it is not yet a severe winter outside the window.
Outcome
I hope that my experience will be useful to some of you. If the symptoms are similar, negotiate with the neighbors of the upper floor and air the riser before the onset of winter. Good luck, comrades!
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This article will consider options for various manipulations with the heating riser. The issues of disconnecting and starting the riser, options for connecting and distributing pipes and the features of the repair, as well as the scheme of the heating riser will be covered.