The first launch of a warm water floor

2 How to replace a radiator dismantling procedure in an apartment building

The easiest way to replace a radiator is in relatively new apartments, in which engineering communications are installed correctly, and the builders provide for the possibility of draining fluid from the system without affecting the common riser. In order to replace the radiator in such an apartment, first turn off the shut-off valves at the battery inlet, thereby stopping the water supply to certain sections of the heating network, but without stopping the circulation of the liquid as a whole. Your further actions for working with the coolant depend on whether the design of the system provides for outlet cocks on the radiators. If there are taps, then you only need to connect a hose to them and drain the liquid into a large container.

With single-pipe heating, it is necessary to work differently. You will have to first open the valve on the bypass (bypass), which is a backup path for the coolant, which is used to replace the radiator. Only after opening the valve on the bypass can the shut-off valves on both sides of the battery itself be closed.

Competent replacement of heating radiators

After that, you can proceed to disconnect the radiator from the heating network in the house. When a new battery is installed instead of a broken battery, it is necessary to check the sealing of the connection, check the tightening of the lock nuts, and only then gradually open the valves at the inlet and outlet of the radiator. At the end, you can open the Mayevsky tap and slowly close the bypass so that the radiator is filled gradually. Slow filling of the system will prevent water hammer, and air will escape from the battery through the Mayevsky valve. The faucet can be closed after water begins to flow through it.

Why air must be removed

The formation of voids reduces the efficiency of the heating system. Pumping equipment, like other components, works less efficiently. To provide comfortable temperature conditions for users in the premises, more resources have to be spent.

With an increase in such voids, the pressure gradually decreases. After reaching the limit minimum level, the corresponding signal is sent to the boiler control unit. In addition to electronic devices, mechanical means of a similar purpose are used. This is an emergency, so the automation turns off the supply of gas or other fuel.

For the subsequent inclusion it is necessary to manually raise the pressure. But there are a lot of gaseous inclusions in fresh water, so negative processes are accelerated. The equipment will turn off more often.

It should be remembered that oxidation, which destroys metals, occurs in the presence of water and oxygen. Adding a new coolant activates the corresponding negative processes. In this mode of operation, the durability of the heating equipment is reduced.

The appearance of air "plugs" in the heat exchange units of the boilers should be excluded. These parts are exposed to very high temperatures.

The reasons listed above are enough to understand the need for preventive measures. Their implementation will prevent complex breakdowns and costs associated with restoration work.

Technical subtleties and nuances

In preparation for draining, it is necessary to study the collector device in order to find and mark on the supply and return the location of the valves marked as follows:

serving - red;
reverse flow is blue.

Connection diagram of the compressor for emptying the circuits of the underfloor heating system

Having confused the supply with the return, the drain system will not work - the check valve will block the pipeline.

If there is no receiving container, then you can connect the drain hose to the return valve and stretch it to the nearest sewerage intake - toilet, sink or drain.

Collector node of the system of warm water floors

Having finished draining the water from one circuit, all the others are emptied in the same way. During the draining of some section of the system, the valves of the remaining circuits must be closed, and at the end of each stage, the taps of the emptied pipelines must also be closed.

To fully empty the circuits, the purge procedure can be repeated after an hour - when moisture drains from the walls of the heat pipes and accumulates in some area.

Draining water in stages

Underfloor heating is a closed system, so it is worth taking care of drain taps even during installation work. The number of valves must be equal to the number of water circuits.

- this is by and large a long hose that is laid in the floor. Laying option, i.e. the configuration of the circuits may be different, however, the liquid circuit works according to the same principle - the heat carrier gives off heat to the surrounding space by heating the floor surface.

Before the drain event, the heating system must be turned off, then wait for the time it takes to completely cool all its elements.

Taking into account the fact that the water circuit is connected to the main pipeline, and the connection point is above the floor level, the water is forcibly drained using an air compressor.

The power of a household vacuum cleaner to drain liquid from a water heating system is not enough.

Emptying is carried out through a return line equipped with a drain valve, and the compressor is connected to the manifold
on the inlet pipe, because of this, the check valve can create certain interference when blowing the pipe.

After connecting to the manifold
the compressor for displacing the heat carrier from the circuit starts and the air supply pressure is slowly increased - up to a value after which the liquid began to flow out at the outlet. Do not forget that the volume of water in each of the contours of underfloor heating is not so large, therefore, an ordinary small container of 8-10 liters is enough to receive it.

The compressor must be turned on until air begins to flow continuously from the pipe immediately after the water.

When you do not have the opportunity to use the compressor, you can use another way to empty the system of liquid and thereby avoid defrosting the heating system. A hose of a suitable size 1 meter long with a funnel at the end is put on the inlet of the heat pipe. The end with the funnel needs to be raised higher and antifreeze is slowly poured into it (take a brightly colored one). Gradually, water will begin to flow from the return pipe, and then liquid. The procedure will take time, but you will not regret that you expended energy.

Why you need to drain water and when is the best time to do it

Water from the boiler must be drained in such cases:

If the water heater is located in an unheated room, the tank must be emptied before the onset of winter. With the onset of frost, the liquid will begin to turn into ice and increase in volume, which can lead to serious damage to the device and loss of performance.
If the warranty period for the boiler has expired, and the structure needs to be repaired or the magnesium anode needs to be replaced, the water must also be drained. All such procedures are carried out only with a dry and clean tank. It should be noted that during the warranty period it is impossible to carry out repairs on your own, otherwise the warranty will become invalid.
The water heater must be descaled at least once every 5 years. If the water supplied to the tank is not of good quality, it is advisable to carry out such a procedure more often. The sediment that remains in the tank prevents the rapid heating of water, which means that the boiler consumes more electricity to operate.

Now I would like to consider cases when it is not necessary to drain water from the boiler:

When turning off the water heater in the warm season, it is not recommended to drain all the liquid from the tank. If the device is not threatened by frost, it is better to leave some water in the container - this will protect the interior of the tank from corrosion. In addition, if you forgetfully plug an empty boiler into the network, a fire hazard may occur.
If the device has been turned off for some time and the water has stagnated in it, it is also not worth emptying the tank completely. Stale water simply needs to be renewed by filling the tank several times. It is advisable to repeat a similar procedure every 3 months, driving 100 liters of cold water through the heater.
If the unit is still covered by the warranty, draining the water, and even more so repairing any parts with your own hands, is highly discouraged. In such a case, the guarantee will become void. If problems arise with the boiler, it is better to simply call qualified specialists. They will drain the water themselves, fix the breakdowns and do it for free.

A suitable container can be used to drain the water from the boiler.

Why drain the water

There are many reasons why it may be necessary to drain water from an underfloor heating system. For example, this procedure should be carried out if the owners are not at home for a long time, or when it becomes necessary to replace water as a coolant
for antifreeze
. You need to do everything right so as not to violate the integrity of the system. Below we consider the rules for draining the liquid.

Often such a need arises during the conservation of the heating system for the winter. This procedure is often carried out in summer cottages and in houses outside the city, which have been empty for a long time. To simplify and speed up the draining process, a special technique is used.

Remember that water in houses with seasonal use must be drained. Otherwise, freezing will cause the system to freeze. That is why the use of antifreeze as a coolant
more preferably, in addition to being resistant to low temperatures, this solution also protects the pumps from excessive wear.

Another important point when using underfloor heating is preventive maintenance in the heating system. The water from the boiler contains many impurities, which, when heated, precipitate or form layers on the walls of the pipeline.

Due to the decrease in the internal clearance of the heat conductors, the circulation of the heat carrier in the system is disturbed, and the heat output becomes lower. Therefore, experts recommend draining the coolant when using water.
from the system at least once a year.

A fluid circuit that is filled does not have this problem. In this case, the coolant can be replaced only once every 3-5 years (the main condition is the operation of the boiler without overheating, for warm floors the maximum threshold for the permissible liquid temperature is 45-55 ° C).

Another reason why water may need to be drained is if the liquid loses its own physical properties. Antifreeze parameters change after overheating - the solution begins to form foam. When foam fills individual sections of heat conductors, this disrupts the circulation of the heat carrier in the system and heat transfer becomes lower.

Inconsistency in the installation technology of underfloor heating, the use of materials that are not intended for contact with chemicals, contributes to the formation of corrosion in the heating system. As a result, the circulation of the heat carrier is also disturbed, and water circuit leaks appear.

Of course, you will have to drain the water from the underfloor heating circuit when replacing it with antifreeze.

These are the main reasons why systems need to be deflated.

And no matter what the reason, the water must be drained in accordance with all the rules, following the safety precautions and the technological sequence of all points.

Consequences of air jams

Possible consequences depend on the object of installation, as well as the design features of the heating system.

Heated floors from a centralized source of heat supply: partial or complete cessation of heating, freezing of pipelines in corner rooms is possible;
Houses with underfloor heating and heating appliances from a centralized source of heat supply: partial or complete cessation of floor heating;
Heated floors from an individual heating source: partial or complete cessation of heating, an emergency stop of the boiler and freezing of the heating system is possible;
Houses with underfloor heating and heating devices from an individual heating source: partial or complete cessation of floor heating, frequent boiler stops.

Given the specific design of the "warm floor" heating system, namely: the presence, depending on the area, of one or more water circuits per room and a separate wiring for each room, a complete cessation of circulation is almost impossible.

Only in the event of air jams immediately on all horizontal branches in all rooms, the movement of the coolant and the functioning of the system will stop.

Materials, equipment and procedure for draining water

To perform the necessary work, you will need a compressor, and of good performance, with a receiver for accumulating compressed air.

As you already understood, a car is not suitable for these purposes.

If you plan to drain the spent antifreeze, then you yourself understand that you should not drain it where you don’t need it.

Clamps of the right size for a secure hose connection will also be needed.

Connect the hose from the compressor to the underfloor heating supply manifold.

The supply manifold may or may not have a special fitting for filling the system under the hose. Therefore, an automatic air vent is unscrewed on the supply comb and a hose is connected through a suitable adapter and tightened with a clamp.

Arrangement of elements on the drain manifold

In the same way, connect the hose to the return manifold and lead it to the drain point.
Close the supply and return valves coming from the boiler in the collector area.
Using flow meters or valves (depending on your collector), close all the underfloor heating circuits, except for one, which, on the contrary, must be opened to the maximum.
Turn on the compressor, open the taps or tap (depending on the type of comb) that are designed to fill and drain the system (those on which hoses are worn). At this point, the coolant will begin to flow out of the drain hose under pressure. Wait until the water runs out and the air comes out. At this point, look at the pressure gauge on the compressor. If the pressure in the receiver at this moment is not large (1-3 atm.), Then close one of the taps on which the hose is attached (it is desirable that it be a tap on the supply manifold, or if the pump is equipped with its own shut-off device, use it better) . Wait for the pressure to rise to 5 atm. (no more) and blow the floor loop under this pressure.
Close the purged circuit and open the next one. Repeat the same procedure with him.
Thus, drain the water from all the contours of the warm floor.
For best efficiency, repeat the procedure after half an hour, as the remaining water droplets in the pipe can connect with each other and eventually block the pipe section in a certain place.

Adhering to this method, you will decide how to drain the water from the warm floor. The only problem is getting a compressor that can do the job.

Self-testing underfloor heating system
The first launch of a warm water floor
Rules for installing a warm water floor based on a concrete screed
How to flush the heating system underfloor heating and how to flush the heating system in a private house with your own hands completely
Installation of a water-heated floor without a concrete screed
Underfloor heating technology

The formation of air masses in the underfloor heating system

A pump is needed to bleed the system.

How to bleed the air accumulated in the system will depend on the case that led to a similar result.

Some circumstances require prompt intervention, while others are not capable of causing severe damage to the system.

If the warm floor was installed with noticeable differences, it is worth getting an additional pump for pumping the coolant.

Running the circulation pump will also help expel excess air. The more air has accumulated, the louder the circulation pump will work.

It is worth paying attention that the pumping of the system must be carried out at maximum speeds. This will save a lot of time and allow you to completely remove air from the system.

If it was recently pumped, but the air has already collected again, the problem may be in the pump itself.

Air vent

With the comb installed, each circuit is closed in turn, while each of them must have an air vent open. It is necessary to release the air gradually, therefore, after cleaning the first circuit, the next one opens. The descent is carried out in stages and only one circuit should be open at the time of bleeding.

If this procedure did not give the expected result, the next airing should be carried out no earlier than in a few days.

To properly clean the system, a person must understand the device of the comb and understand the principle of its operation. If the necessary knowledge is not available, you should seek help from specialists. air release, see this video:

emergency situation

By an emergency, we mean the case when the battery has leaked. Again, if there is a tap that turns off the battery - turn it off and drain it, if not - you can not do without calling a plumber.

The battery does not heat up

Cold water in the battery, although the heating has been turned on for a long time? Means, . In theory, your radiators should be equipped with a Mayevsky crane. If your battery is installed correctly (the angle at which the tap is installed should be slightly higher), then when you open the tap to bleed excess air, you will only get air out; as soon as the water has gone (do not forget to immediately substitute the jar) - it means that the air has come out and there is no more cork. If the radiator is installed completely horizontal, you may need to drain more water.

Rifar radiator has special taps for draining

Mayevsky crane not installed? Perhaps it is better in this case to still contact the experts. Why?

Equipment tends to fail over time. Imagine that you managed to cope with coking and drain the water. But to close them - no longer.

Can you imagine what the consequences will be?

First, you flood the neighbors, and you still have to call a locksmith to turn off the heating in the whole house.
Secondly, you will leave the whole house (or at least the entrance) without heating for a sufficiently long time - until the consequences of your “amateur activity” are eliminated.
In addition, if the heating in your house is provided by an individual boiler, then the contract you concluded with the service organization states that it is forbidden to drain the water yourself. This is due to the loss of the desired pressure level, which is signaled by special emergency sensors.

How to start a warm water floor correctly

The first start of a warm water floor is carried out by heating the coolant to + 20-25 degrees.It is necessary to let the system settle for a couple of days, after which every day increase this figure by 10 degrees if water is used and by 5 if the coolant is antifreeze.

The whole process of gradual heating of the structure directly depends on the size of the room. If it is small, then you can meet it in just a couple of days, but since the launch of a warm water floor is arranged after all checks, pouring concrete and laying flooring, it is better not to rush with a sharp rise in temperature. This can cause cracks in the screed.

How to drain water from the heating system

When is it necessary to drain the water from the heating system? Most often, the need for it arises when it is necessary to clean or replace the heating radiator, for example. If we are talking about a city apartment that is connected to a central heating system, then such an operation can be carried out independently on the internal segment of the network. In the case when it is necessary to drain the heating system of a private house equipped with a boiler, it will have to be temporarily emptied.

The essence of the

The first step is to block the branch of the heating riser, which goes to the apartment. It is enough just to close the distribution valve located here. For a private house with an autonomous heating system, this process is somewhat different:

first, you need to stop the supply of fuel or electrical energy;
secondly, you should carefully read the user manual for this case.

Only then can the boiler be turned off. Then you should close the valve, through which water is drawn into the system.

To speed up the process a little, you will need to know the places in the system where taps with air-type valves can be located. All of them must be opened. In this case, nothing will interfere with the process of draining water to the hose.

During this operation, small water leaks from the system to the floor are possible. Therefore, at the very beginning, it is better to place a large bowl or basin under the place where the hose is connected to the tap (drain). As soon as all the water leaves the system, it is necessary to disconnect the hose and drain the remaining water from it into a substituted container.

Only after completing all the described procedures, you can proceed to the main thing - to the work for which the water was drained from the heating system of a residential apartment or private housing construction.

If the owner of an apartment or house is not entirely clear how to drain the water from the heating without adverse consequences, then it is better to contact a qualified contractor. For example, to the plumber of a company that services a particular house.

termosyst.ru

We expel the air

It is a well-known fact that air in heating systems accumulates at the upper points of the system. For underfloor heating systems, this is a collector comb, where devices for air discharge are installed (Maevsky taps, automatic air vents or conventional ball valves).

Mayevsky crane installed on the underfloor heating collector.

To remove air from the underfloor heating system, it is necessary to perform the following steps in a certain sequence:

Block off all horizontal branches on the collector.
Remove air from the circulation pump housing.
Open the Mayevsky valve or a ball valve on the comb (in the absence of automatic devices).
Open the first water circuit, start the pump, setting the minimum capacity on the regulator.
After waiting for the appearance of water from the air outlet device of the pumped branch, turn off the tap and turn off the pump.
With an interval of 5 - 6 minutes, repeat the operation several times until the air is completely removed.
Similarly, do all the operations with the rest of the contours.
Then, switching the pump to maximum performance, pump the entire system as a whole, periodically releasing air.
Given the likelihood of the formation of new plugs during the subsequent heating of the system, it is necessary to bleed the air again.

Important! The system can only be put into operation after all these measures have been taken and it has been fully checked for leaks. To work with Mayevsky cranes, you must have a special key or slotted screwdriver

It will be useful to prepare a special container for drained water.

When using automatic gas vents or separators as venting equipment, no additional means are needed. It must be remembered that with an increase in the complexity and amount of equipment used, the cost increases, and the reliability of the system as a whole also decreases.

Types of fan coil units, their differences and features

The lower the degree of automation of the process, the higher the efficiency of underfloor heating. Adjustable mechanically operated manifold valves, Mayevsky taps are easy to maintain or replace with your own hands.

Repair of more complex equipment with servo drives and automation units requires the participation of specialists. In addition, automatic air vents, while effectively removing air pockets, do not always make it possible to immediately detect violations of the system tightness.

How to drain water from the water supply system

From time to time, it may be necessary to completely turn off all taps, fittings, plumbing fixtures, or even drain water from the entire plumbing network (for example, if the house is left unheated all winter).

In this case, it is necessary to perform the following operations, which we present in the technological sequence.

Draining. We turn off the water supply to the house. We turn off gas and electricity from water heating systems. In the presence of central heating, it is necessary to open the outlet cock located on the boiler or on the pipes, for which they usually resort to using a hose. Then you need to open all the valves on the radiators. Starting from the top floor of the house or mansion, open all the hot water taps in the shower, bath, etc. Do not forget to drain the toilet bowl as well.

We remind you once again: all water outlet taps on the heater and other equipment must be open. And the last thing: it is necessary to open the outlet taps of the main water supply line so that all the remaining water leaves. If you leave your house or cottage for the winter for a long time, then do not be too lazy to make sure that all the water has left the system. As an additional frost protection, add salt or a tablet of glycerin to the water left in the siphons. This will protect the siphons from possible rupture and exclude the possibility of odors from the pipelines entering the room.

Rice. one.
1 - compression plug; 2 - pin; 3 - threaded plug; 4 - nozzle

In the process of draining water from the system, it often becomes necessary to disconnect some of its sections. In this case, you need to use plugs. The most common plugs are shown in Figure 26.

Filling the system with water. First of all, you need to close the drain valves on the main pipes. Then you need to close all the taps in the house, including the taps of the boiler and water heater. If there is a cold water heater, open the tap on the radiator and let air in. After all these manipulations, slowly open the main valve of the system and gradually fill the system with water.

Even before turning on the boiler, the batteries must be purged with air. At the final stage, turn on the gas and electricity to turn on the heater and boiler.

Measures to prevent freezing of water. There is a possibility of cold penetration from the street due to malfunctions in the heating system

In this case, it is very important to immediately take the necessary measures against the freezing of pipes, since the water frozen in them will immediately break the pipeline. In very cold weather, even those pipelines that were laid without violating the requirements can freeze, which often happens with pipes for supplying heat to a garage or basement

What measures can be taken to prevent this? If the country house is electrified, in a cold area where the pipe runs, turn on the electric heater or simply place a 100-watt lamp near the pipe. For these purposes, you can even use a hair dryer. It is very good if you insulate the pipe before the onset of winter by wrapping it with newspapers and tying it with a rope.

If the pipe is already frozen, wrap it with rags of any material and pour a thin stream of hot water over it so that the fabric around the pipe remains constantly hot.

Installing a warm floor implies a long and stable operation of the heating system. Such a system is equally convenient in a city apartment, and in a country house, and in the country. Such a floor can be arranged in almost any residential area, however, its operational efficiency is affected by the compliance of the technical characteristics of the products with the design features of the room. Correctly carried out calculation and correct laying of heating circuits, high-quality pressure testing of the underfloor heating system makes it possible for property owners to forget about the maintenance of heating equipment for a long time.

But nothing lasts forever, and any product may require repair work. Underfloor heating is a complex complex of various equipment, a malfunction in the operation of one of the elements can cause a breakdown of the entire heating system.

Sometimes, for example, in case of problems with the throughput or tightness of such a floor, the conservation of the house, it is necessary to drain the water from the heating circuit.

In the article, we will analyze in more detail when this procedure is required and how, in principle, to drain water from a warm floor.

Draining water from underfloor heating