How to save electricity
Today, there are many options for saving energy. These methods are quite simple, but for them to work you need to apply them every day. Reducing electricity consumption will not only save the family budget, but also reduce emissions into the environment.
Simple and time-tested saving methods
The use of energy-saving light bulbs. Such lamps practically do not heat up, so the energy costs are only for lighting. On average, the life of such lamps is up to 3 years, and this will significantly save costs.
Such lamps consume 5 times less electricity, their service life is 10 times longer and pay off in 1 year.
When using household appliances, it is important to follow the instructions. Let's take a refrigerator for example.
It should not be placed near a stove or radiator, as the device will need to work smoothly to maintain the required temperature. The same applies to the moment when hot food is placed. It is important not to forget to defrost the refrigerator in a timely manner, since ice in the freezer contributes to high energy costs (up to 20%).
When leaving the room, do not forget to turn off the light. Such advice is the most effective way to save electricity.
Clean your light bulbs regularly. At first glance, this advice seems ridiculous. But few people know that dust can drown out up to 15% of the light. It is important not to forget about the cleanliness of the shades. You can use lower wattage lamps.
Make minor cosmetic repairs in the room
When choosing wallpaper, you should pay attention to light shades, as they are able to make the room lighter and more comfortable by 80%. We should not forget about the ceiling, it should be made white
Thus, you will turn on the lights less often.
The use of heat reflective screens. They are made from foil or penofol. They should be installed behind the battery. Thanks to such screens, the temperature in the room can be raised by several degrees.
Room warming. It is necessary to insulate the windows or replace them with metal-plastic ones. Up to 30% of heat can be lost through windows. Blackout curtains should be hung on the windows. If possible, you need to insulate the front doors, and in the house walls, ceilings, floors and roofs.
Purchasing home appliances of class "A", "A +" and "A ++" it can save up to 50% of electricity.
It is not recommended to leave devices in standby mode. Any technique, a person uses only a few hours, during the day. All the remaining time, she, in the "standby" mode, gradually absorbs electricity. To save money, devices should be turned off from the network.
And so, we already know how many kilowatts are needed for a house. Let's recap. From the above, it follows that if we use electricity economically, then we can quite invest in 15 kW, and for a small house it will even be enough for heating. Then the whole family will feel comfortable in their cozy nest.
How to find out the allocated power for the house All about electricity
The first task to be solved for the electrification of the cottage is the coordination of its electrical power. How much can the local power grid provide and how much do you need? How to calculate and not make a mistake?
In order not to deny yourself the usual “urban” comfort in a country house, you need to request sufficient total power from the local power grid.
How to calculate the electrical power of the house?
First you must decide which boiler you will have an electric or gas boiler. If an electric boiler, then this should be taken into account.
In general, we take a piece of paper and begin to write out all the electrical appliances that you plan to equip your home with.
Nothing can be forgotten!
- How many light bulbs will there be in the house? What?
- TV set?
- Computer?
- Refrigerator?
- Microwave?
- Washing machine?
- Boiler (if electric)?
- Iron?
- Electric kettle?
- Aquarium? And what do you think ... It also consumes electricity.
- What stove do you have? Electric or gas, or maybe induction?
- Do you have a dishwasher? Not now? And then?
When there is not enough dedicated power
The standard power that is allocated to the IZHS section in the Moscow Region is 15 kW for 3 phases (introductory machine for 25A). This is quite enough for the normal life of a medium-sized house using all the benefits of civilization.
However, the administration of some villages forcibly limits the maximum power consumption to a minimum. This is done for two reasons:
- there is not enough power of the power transformer for all sections (often in SNT)
- for the allocation of additional capacity, a separate and often very high fee is taken (typical for plots with a contract in expensive cottage settlements). We heard figures of 1 million rubles for the transition from a 10A three-phase machine to 25A.
In practice, we had to deal with such cases:
- single-phase connection, automatic 16A at the entrance (3.5 kW for the whole house). Turning on the kettle while the oven or washing machine is running leads to knocking out the introductory machine
- with a three-phase connection and a 10A automatic device - this is 2.2 kW for each phase, i.e. only 6.6 kW. If two powerful devices fall into one phase, the machine works, the whole house is plunged into darkness. It is almost impossible to scatter the load over the phases.
- Three-phase connection for 16A - 3.5 kW per phase.
Below is a photo of a street metering cabinet, which we took in one of the villages near Moscow:
Outdoor metering cabinet for several houses
As you can see, the standard power for a cottage with an area of 250 square meters is 6.6 kW (automatic ABB SH203 C10). For an additional cost, you can purchase C16 (10.5kW) or C25 (15kW).
1. Modular automation based on priority relay
We prioritize and assemble the machines into 2 groups - disabled and non-switchable. Disabled include:
- electric boiler
- Electric underfloor heating and other heating / heating
- Electric boiler
- Thermopot, etc.
- Powerful non-priority lighting, etc.
The disconnected group is powered through a modular contactor (for example, ABB ESB 20-40), which is controlled through a priority relay (for example, single-phase ABB LSS1/2, Meander RPN-1-25, three-phase OM-310).
If the load exceeds the set nominal value, the contactor will turn off non-priority lines until the resumption of consumption that fits into the allocated power. If necessary, 3 priority groups can be set: one non-switchable and 2 disabled (ABB LSS1/2).
With a three-phase connection, as an alternative, you can assemble a circuit that will transfer the load from the most loaded phase to the less loaded one.
- Pros: inexpensive (equipment 5-50t.r.)
- Cons: often there is simply no non-priority load, or there is too little of it. Some household appliances do not tolerate frequent shutdowns/switching.
our colleague, who talks about the operation of the priority relay
2. Inverter with power pumping to the network
How does the circuit work? In the inverter settings, we set the power limit, which we can take in phase from the network. When this limit is exceeded, the inverter adds or, as we say, “pumps up” the necessary power.
When the load is removed from the limit values, the battery charging starts. In addition, the inverter acts as an uninterruptible power supply during power outages.
The most popular device on the domestic market, capable of solving such problems, is the inverter MAC Energy of the Hybrid and Dominator series (it can also control a generator). These devices are able to add half of their power to the power grid limit.
For example, MAC Hybrid 9.0/48, with a limit of 3.5kW, can pump an additional 4.5kW - in total we can consume 8kW per phase.
Let's take a look at one of our completed projects.
In the house, we mounted an additional electrical panel, in which we installed:
- power control relays that control power relays
- UZM51-M - protection devices for each phase
- vending machines and much more
Power control board
The hybrid inverter MAC Hybrid 9.0/48 and 4 batteries Delta DTM 12250L were installed in the garage:
Inverter with battery
The current load on the inverter is 600W, the battery is being charged (+7A) after our testing of the swap mode.
Inverter Screen
The budget of the entire solution was 3 times lower than the cost of purchasing additional power from the administration, but at the same time, our customer received the function of uninterruptible power supply and surge protection.
- Pros: fully automatic power boost system + UPS function
- Cons: cost
Power of household electrical appliances
On household electrical appliances, the power is usually indicated. Some lamps limit the power of the bulbs that can be used in them, for example, no more than 60 watts. This is because higher wattage bulbs generate a lot of heat and the bulb holder can be damaged. And the lamp itself at a high temperature in the lamp will not last long. This is mainly a problem with incandescent lamps. LED, fluorescent and other lamps generally operate at lower wattage at the same brightness and if used in luminaires designed for incandescent lamps there are no wattage problems.
The greater the power of the electrical appliance, the higher the energy consumption and the cost of using the appliance. Therefore, manufacturers are constantly improving electrical appliances and lamps. The luminous flux of lamps, measured in lumens, depends on the power, but also on the type of lamps. The greater the luminous flux of the lamp, the brighter its light looks. For people, it is high brightness that is important, and not the power consumed by the llama, so recently alternatives to incandescent lamps have become increasingly popular. Below are examples of types of lamps, their power and the luminous flux they create.
Electrical power connection 15KW
@SvetaPlease read the material on the forum at the links: - Heating at home / Installing batteries in the house / answering the question “Electric batteries can heat a small house?” There I wrote: - “for example, for a room of 20 squares with ceilings of about 3 meters a 2-kilowatt convector (with automatic maintenance of the set temperature) is perfect. Naturally, where 22 degrees are not needed, you can put the convector on a colder one, or, if you don’t plan to use any rooms, turn it off, for example, on duty plus ten and there will be no extra money to wind up your electricity meter.”
That is, 15 kW is enough for you if you dispose of them correctly, and if you don’t think to turn on all electrical appliances in the house at once, then 30 kW may not be enough and there is a real danger of a serious electrical wiring accident (and even fire) if the wiring was not immediately intended for such large capacities. As we all now know from the article about 15 kW (see earlier on our forum), you will have three different inputs in your house, each 5 kW, so you need to distribute this electrical power carefully, so that it is enough for both heating and other electrical appliances that you can’t do without in a residential building. I don’t think that it makes sense for 4 households to try to constantly heat all 120m2 to a comfortable 22 degrees in the autumn-spring season. Determine the required minimum living space in which it should be so warm and comfortable, and everything else - set the mode of automatic heaters to a mode of no more than ~ 10 degrees. And, I repeat, it is very important what other life support systems in your house are powered by electricity. So, for example, if you use a pair of electric burners for cooking - you can assume that you no longer have one of the three 5KW inputs - it will all go to your electric burners (unless, of course,so that all consumers must be carefully calculated, very responsibly choose what you can’t do without, think over a system of simple rules for yourself “if you turned it on, it’s better not to turn it on” and it will become clear how much is left for heating and, accordingly, how many meters of living space can be heated with electricity up to a comfortable 22. And what, I wonder, is happening with your house in winter when you don’t live in it?
Expert answers
little princess:
So, do you need a device for storing electric energy from a technical electric network (batteries)? Or generators with batteries? or filters with generators and batteries? ? It should also be borne in mind that in winter, the consumption of email. energy will increase significantly. If you have a project, you should at least describe it a little, otherwise what to build on? In general, what is needed: a GENERATOR and a BATTERY? Or just a battery with an inverter and a filter. In the latter case, you get a huge installation, unprofitable in terms of maintenance and economically too. It would be easier to use a gas generator.
******:
If we take into account the average load of 3 kW, this is about 15 amperes. For example, for a day. That turns out. 360 amp hour. (this is about three KAMAZ batteries) If you make a frequency converter, it will give out 220 V. Well, for your 50 kW, this is about 2300 ampere hours. or a capacity of 20 KAMAZ batteries. or the capacity of all batteries of one diesel locomotive is 70 cans, the size of each can is 18 liters of canister (although they are alkaline and the size will take half of your country house - I think it’s not realistic and not necessary)
User deleted:
it is easier to connect a gas generator and turn it on during interruptions and reduce the load
Avotara:
With an average constant load (computer + refrigerator 250 W) and a variable average daily load (lighting with fluorescent lamps + TV 65 W), 4 batteries of 200 Ah 12 V should be enough for 28 hours
Woviey:
Private house with gas equipment, 4 people + frequent guests, average 250 kW per month, no savings. Delhi for 30 days = 8.3 kW per day. Batteries are not advisable, service life + price = very expensive. The cheapest option. generator, if possible, connect to domestic gas.
What is the allocated power of electricity and how to increase it
The functioning of modern household appliances requires electricity, but the number of electrical appliances connected at the same time is limited by the allocated power. If you have an apartment or plot with gas, often there is no need for a large amount of electrical energy.
If there is no gas and you need to increase the limit, you can increase the established rate for your apartment. This can be done by contacting the operating organization. If you do not increase the established rate of electricity, you will not be able to achieve the desired comfort in your home.
Next, we will talk about how to find out and increase the allocated power of electricity for an apartment and a private house.
What it is
During the capital construction of the times of the USSR, for example, in Khrushchev, i.e. in most of the residential premises operated to this day, even at the design stage, the allocated power was at the rate of 1.5 kW per 1 apartment.
Later, the established norm of electricity increased to 3 kW, since it became necessary to increase it due to the increased "voracity" of consumers.
Practice shows that plugs of 10-16 Amperes were usually installed in electrical panels and meters, so that the maximum current consumed by the apartment was limited to a total power of 3 kW for apartments with a gas stove. For apartments where an electric stove is installed, 7 kW is allocated.
In new buildings, the allocated power can reach up to 15 kW. Such a spread is due to the fact that during the construction of old houses (60s, 70s) there were simply no such powerful consumers and as many household appliances as now.
Dedicated power is the maximum amount of electricity consumed at one time.
In addition, in order to enter the established limit, sometimes you need to enter not 1 phase, as often happens, but as many as 3 phases.
This is necessary to connect modern household appliances, such as powerful electric boilers and electric stoves.
This is especially true in commercial premises and industries of any scale, where a lot of electricity is needed (up to 30 kW and above).
Example. For heating a country house not equipped with gas equipment, solid fuel and electric boilers are installed, the latter are safer and more convenient.
For heating a house with an area of 100 sq.m. you need a boiler with a capacity of about 7-10 kW, the electric stove consumes another 3-5 kW.
In total, it is necessary to increase the established limit of electricity to a minimum of 15 kW and input electricity in three phases.
To find out the allocated power for a private house or apartment, you need to contact the operating organization (in Moscow and the region, this is OJSC Mosenergosbyt). The certificate contains information about the allocated and average power consumption of electricity. It will be needed if you draw up documents for an increase, this will be discussed in more detail below.
Private person
The first step is to collect a package of documents. It is worth starting with obtaining technical conditions and developing an electrical project. The power supply project of the installation is a set of technical documentation made in accordance with state standards and regulatory documents of the state.
It can only be performed by organizations with the required license. And here you will need a floor plan, it can be ordered in design studios, a certificate of the amount of allocated energy, terms of reference, etc.
Separate moments can be discussed individually or the designer will go to the site to get acquainted with the task.
The next step is to coordinate the project with energy supply organizations. Next, the installation is tested and its compliance with the project. If the object does not correspond to the project, you must either bring it into line, or order a new project according to the actual situation.
After that, an act of admission is drawn up, this is done by employees of the energy supervision. At the end, a complete package of documents with all permissions is provided to the energy supply organization and the connection or increase in allocated power is performed.
In total, in order to increase the allocated power of electricity, it will be required:
- Getting TU.
- Development of a power supply project.
- Coordination of the project with the energy supply organization.
- Checking the installation.
- Drawing up an act of admission.
- Transfer of a package of documents to the ES organization.
- Conclusion of a new contract.
To draw up an electrical project you need:
- The act of delimitation of balance sheet ownership (taken in the DEZ or comrade homeowners).
- Information about allocated power.
- A document that confirms the ownership of real estate.
- A plan of the facility, on which ALL receivers of electricity are indicated.
Power units
Power is measured in joules per second, or watts. Along with watts, horsepower is also used. Before the invention of the steam engine, the power of engines was not measured, and, accordingly, there were no generally accepted units of power. When the steam engine began to be used in mines, engineer and inventor James Watt began to improve it. In order to prove that his improvements made the steam engine more productive, he compared its power to the working capacity of horses, since horses have been used by people for many years, and many could easily imagine how much work a horse can do in a certain amount of time. In addition, not all mines used steam engines. On those where they were used, Watt compared the power of the old and new models of the steam engine with the power of one horse, that is, with one horsepower.Watt determined this value experimentally, observing the work of draft horses at the mill. According to his measurements, one horsepower is 746 watts. Now it is believed that this figure is exaggerated, and the horse cannot work in this mode for a long time, but they did not change the unit. Power can be used as a measure of productivity, as increasing power increases the amount of work done per unit of time. Many people realized that it was convenient to have a standardized unit of power, so horsepower became very popular. It began to be used in measuring the power of other devices, especially vehicles. Even though watts have been around for almost as long as horsepower, horsepower is more commonly used in the automotive industry, and it's clearer to many buyers when a car's engine power is listed in those units.
60 watt incandescent lamp
How many kilowatts do you need for a house
How time flies! Just 100 years ago, we were happy with only one "Ilyich's light bulb", which shone dimly somewhere in the room. What now? Modern civilization has spoiled us so much that we simply cannot imagine life not only without artificial lighting, but also many other electrical appliances that mankind has not created over the past century.
TV, refrigerator, washing machine, computer and other benefits of civilization - all this makes our life more interesting. Therefore, even in our thoughts we cannot admit that at one fine moment we will have to part with any of the above or limit ourselves in use.
What is it about? When buying an apartment, we know for sure that the allocated capacities will definitely be enough for our domestic needs. And it does not happen that when you turn on the electric kettle and microwave at the same time, it will “knock out the plugs”. Another thing when building a house. So, many who are building their own house have two quite logical questions: “How many kilowatts can they allocate to the site? And how many kilowatts do you need for a house?
Let's start with the first question. So, according to the Decree of the Government of the Russian Federation No. 334 “On improving the procedure for technical connection of consumers to electric networks” dated April 21, 2009, any individual can claim a maximum power of 15 kW inclusive (taking into account the power previously connected at this point of connection).
The second question is a continuation of the first. Since, having learned how many kilowatts are required, you immediately begin to think about whether the allocated power is enough for a comfortable stay. To do this, let's figure out how many kilowatts this or that electrical appliance consumes. GOST R 51628-2000 "Distribution boards for residential buildings" will help us with this.
Table 1. Power of household electrical appliances.
The table shows that if you do not use electric heating at home and powerful air conditioners, then 15 kW is enough for a comfortable stay in your home.
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Traditional 15 kW per plot is how much is it enough for full use as in an apartment
15 kilowatts - 3 phases - generally for the eyes
This is heating with an electric boiler and everything else.
These are three phases of 220 volts, with a power of 5 kW per phase. It is also enough to sell the phase to the neighbors.
15 kW 380 volts. These are three phases of kilowatts each. Divide along separate lines and use. It's enough for your eyes
We have only 21 kW for 15 houses
15 kW 1 phase - enough for everything except electric heating
Refrigerator 120-300 W, TV - 120 W, five bulbs - a maximum of 500 W.
You probably won’t turn on the entire tool at the same time - look at the passport of the maximum consumer. Put it all together and you get the power you need.
Keep in mind that you may later want to email. kettle, microwave, boiler, pump, etc., etc.
So take the maximum that they give.
If you do not heat only with electricity, then it is enough with a large margin.
The question is vague
Enough for what?
As in an apartment, this is energy consumption or an “apartment” level of comfort in the field?
If you heat with firewood, then it will be enough for the house and for a small cowshed)))
And if you are going to organize electric heating in addition to providing water treatment and wastewater treatment, then you will have to bring the dimensions and thermal characteristics of the house in line with the distribution of power to all critical consumers ...
100% is enough, more will remain ....
