stove fan
Structurally, the fan consists of a DC motor with a collector-brush assembly and an impeller mounted on an electric rotor. motor. The power supply of the electric motor is carried out from the on-board network of the car. There are several modes of fan operation, the difference between which is reduced only to the speed of rotation of the rotor, and this is realized by inserting a resistor into the power supply circuit of the electric motor.
Setting the fan operation mode is carried out with a handle located in the stove control unit on the center console. Initially, on the VAZ-2110, this handle was part of the design of the SAUO controller, but functioned separately from the controller itself. Later, the automatic fan control function was added to the ACS (position “A” on the handle), by activating which the controller regulates the rotation speed of the electric motor in order to maintain the set temperature.
The electric motor used in the design of the VAZ-2110 fan is simple, but it has “weak points” - the collector-brush assembly and bearings. The wear of these elements causes incorrect functioning and complete inoperability of the fan. Short circuits and winding breaks in the stove drive are rare, but do not forget about these breakdowns either.
Breakage symptoms. Components of the heater that affect the operation of the fan
Signs of a malfunction of the stove fan are quite clearly manifested and it is impossible not to notice them. Common failure symptoms:
- Increased noise, rattle during operation.
- Significant reduction in air injection efficiency.
- The fan does not turn on.
- Spontaneous change in the speed of rotation of the electric motor.
- By ear it is determined that the electric motor is working under heavy load.
In some cases, such consequences give malfunctions in the power supply circuit and fan control, so you should first check them. This applies to:
- fuse (burnout - the cause of a complete failure of the electric motor);
- resistor (if it is not working, some speed modes of the electric motor stop working);
- controller (the knob for switching the fan modes is included in its design, so malfunctions of the automatic control system affect the operation of the electric motor);
- wiring terminals of the power and control circuit (oxidation, damage to wires is one of the reasons for a malfunctioning electric fan).
If the diagnostics of these elements showed that they are in good order, it is necessary to dismantle and repair the fan itself. But you can pre-diagnose it.
Fan check
A check is made by directly powering the electric motor from the battery (we lay wires from the battery terminals and connect them to the motor power terminals) - work under load, difficult set of rotation speeds, squeals and squeaks indicate wear of the components of the drive and the need to replace them. But if, even with a direct voltage supply, the electric motor did not work, it is more likely that it burned out or the windings broke. Such malfunctions are difficult to fix and it is easier to replace the entire assembly.
Features of the design of the stove of the old and new samples
The design of the stove motor on the VAZ-2110 is identical, but the fans and their location are different. On models of the first years of production, the electric fan is installed in the stove body in front of the radiator and it is located horizontally (old-style stoves). After the design was revised - the fan was already placed in the cabin filter housing and installed vertically (new type heaters).
Despite the design features, dismantling the fan is a simple operation and does not require complete disassembly of the stove.
On a VAZ-2110 with an old-style heater, in order to remove the electric fan, you need:
- Dismantle the "frill".
- Remove the front wall of the niche in which the heater is located.
- Dismantle the rear cover of the fan housing by first unscrewing the screws and removing the clamps.
- Disconnect the wiring from the fan and remove it.
As for models with a new type of stove, the technology for removing the stove fan on such cars is different:
- dismantle the "jabot" and the front wall;
- remove the air filter;
- unscrew the fastening of the filter housing to the stove body and disconnect them;
- disconnect the wiring;
- remove the filter housing together with the fan;
- dismantle the electric fan.
After removing the electric motor with the impeller, we disassemble it, carry out troubleshooting, replace worn elements and assemble it back.
Replacing the stove radiator with a VAZ 2110 and 2112. When the resource is exhausted
- Old sample (until 2003);
- New sample (since 2003).
- Remove the rubber seal from the windshield;
- Fasteners are unscrewed and the frill is removed;
- Dismantle the wind deflector. To do this, unscrew the nuts with screws located along its edges;
- The hose is removed from the windshield washer. It should be pushed aside, otherwise it will interfere with further work;
- Unscrew the fasteners of the wipers;
- The overlay (visor) is finally removed;
- Metal clips are removed from the stove body. They are carefully examined, if corrosion is visible on them, then they need to be replaced with new ones;
- The filter in the cabin is removed, which is attached to the heating radiator with screws; The fan is turned off. To do this, take off the positive connector, and unscrew the nut from the negative terminal (on the body);
- Unscrew 3 screws securing the stove cover;
- Loosen the hose clamps. We take out the radiator.
- The supply hoses are dismantled. Also remove the steam outlet hose. It is enough to disconnect it from the stove. They are all fastened with clamps;
- Chips are removed from the fan;
- The motor-reducer is disconnected from the power supply;
- 3 self-tapping screws securing the gear motor are unscrewed;
- We find the places where the radiator is attached to the body, and unscrew the screws;
- We unscrew the screws from the filter cover. We extract it;
- We unscrew the screws securing the halves of the radiator;
- Now you can pull out the heater itself. We take out the left side first, then the right;
- Opening the brackets, remove the damper.
Causes of the malfunction
Replacing the stove motor vaz 2110
As a rule, there are many reasons for such a malfunction, these include:
- clogging with slag from the stove radiator;
- oven motor failure.
If the furnace motor does not function, or some of its speeds are not working, then it is first recommended to check the resistor, which in other words can be called the stove rheostat. This element is responsible for the speed of the fan. You can purchase such a part at a specialized store that sells auto parts. As for the replacement, this can be done with the help of a master or on your own, which is not so difficult even for an inexperienced specialist.
Note! In the case of repairing or replacing the stove radiator, it is recommended to contact a car service, since it is difficult to remove the radiator yourself. To replace the stove motor, minimal knowledge and detailed instructions are required.
There are heater malfunctions that any motorist can easily fix. For example, a situation may occur when cold air blows through the side deflectors and the windshield heating duct of the heating system, while a hot air flow comes from the lower and central air ducts. Most likely, the reason will be the unsatisfactory operation of the heater damper, which is designed to cut off cold air.In some cases, it prevents the normal passage of cold air. Such malfunctions are most easily detected in the cold season.
When bending the damper drive rod, special care must be taken so as not to disturb the plastic parts. For information, plastic becomes more brittle in winter
Replacing the motor for the stove with a vaz 2110
Of course, a non-functioning stove causes many problems in the winter.
If this is not so important in summer, then windows will fog up in winter. You can figure out what the reason is when disassembling the heating system of the car
Preparing for a replacement
If you have at least some skills in working with keys and screwdrivers, replacing the stove motor will be a feasible repair for you.
To get to the stove motor at the VAZ 2110, you first need to open the hood, remove the "-" battery terminal.
Now, in fact, we are removing the motor itself, which does not work as we need, or is completely out of order:
- Windshield wipers need to be removed. To do this, we hook and remove the rubber caps, take the key for 10, unscrew the nuts, disconnect the brushes;
- We pry off the decorative plugs (a slotted screwdriver is useful here), unscrew the screws on which the frill is attached, then a couple more nuts on the edges (with a 10 socket wrench), remove the jabot;
- Having removed the rubber seal, unscrew the screws with which the engine compartment shield is attached;
- Now - remove the hose that supplies the washer fluid to the nozzles;
- The most difficult task is to get to the right engine compartment shield to remove it. It has two nuts on the bottom (also for a 10 socket wrench). Unscrewing, it would seem, is not difficult, only it was painfully inconvenient. Although there is a positive point here - these nuts do not have to be completely unscrewed - the shield can be pulled out after a few turns;
- Before disconnecting this shield, remove the clamps from the hose going to the vacuum brake booster;
- Unscrew the screws (4 pieces) from the cabin filter cover and remove it;
- Here is the heater motor. It is necessary to disconnect the heater motor block, as well as the resistor block;
- Now you can pull out the left side of the stove, and with it the fan motor;
- It became possible to replace the heater fan;
- Reassembly is carried out in the same order, only exactly the opposite.
Be prepared for the fact that for the first time replacing the heater engine with a VAZ 2110 (repair) will take you a couple of hours.
Possible causes of malfunction
Before carrying out repair measures, you should carefully study the possible causes of a malfunction of the car stove fan:
- Burnt out fuse. The real reason is the most banal and simple, but at the same time it leads to the greatest problems in solving the existing issue. Replacing a fuse turns out to be a very simple procedure that any motorist can successfully handle. Despite a simple repair, it is extremely difficult to detect a short circuit that has blown a fuse.
- Oxidation of contacts that should be used to improve the operation of a car stove.
- The ignition relay does not allow the stove to successfully turn on and start working.
- An additional resistor can lead to the fact that only the third speed will be working.
- A faulty car interior heating switch requires replacing the fuse.
- A non-working fan electric motor is another important reason. In this case, it is necessary to replace the stove motor or at least check its contact with the vehicle. In most cases, the cause is hidden in a burnt out electric motor, poor contact with the machine, sticking of the brushes of the electric motor.
Regardless of the cause of the malfunction, you can successfully fix the car stove
The most important thing is to understand what is the cause of the breakdown or partial violation of the functionality of the heating equipment.
If the diagnosis has confirmed that the cause lies in the stove motor, replacing the stove fan most often becomes a mandatory task. How to carry out such a responsible procedure and how easy it promises to be?
The radiator fan on the VAZ-2114 serves to forcefully cool the engine and cooling system, with insufficient natural cooling. Especially often it turns off when the temperature sensor is broken.
Its failure can lead to unexpected consequences, therefore, it is necessary to determine the cause of the malfunction in time and eliminate it. If the motorist is unable to do this, then it is worth contacting a car service.
Throw off "-" battery wire to replace the stove fan VAZ 2110
2. Disconnect the "+" connector of the stove fan wire
3. Use a ten key to unscrew the nut ...
4 ... and remove the "negative" wire.
5. Unfasten the four brackets with a screwdriver ...
6. carefully bending the cover,
7. Remove the stove fan and replace it with a new one if it cannot be repaired.
When installing the electric motor, make sure that it does not touch the housing when rotating.
How to replace the stove fan with a VAZ 2110-VAZ 2112
This instruction for replacing the stove motor is suitable for many cars of the tenth family, but not for all, because dozens were produced in very different trim levels and designs for all the time, for some VAZ 2110 even the engine from Opel was installed from the factory, such a car VAZ 21106 is marked, therefore, we won’t be able to write about everything (Since a very large article will turn out), we’ll just take the most common tenth family and use it as an example to show the replacement of the stove motor through description and pictures!
1
First of all, you will need to get to the motor, it is hidden under the lining that is located under the windshield, and inside this lining, the motor is still placed in the casing, so you will have to remove a lot of decorative elements, in more detail how to do this, it is described in the article titled: “Replacing the cabin filter on the VAZ 2110” and by the way, the trim that is under the windshield cannot be removed without removing the brushes, and when you lift it, pay attention to it there will be a tee (See the place where it is located on the big photo) , disconnect the hose from it that is connected below (see small photo) and the trim can then be removed from the car
2. We go further, as soon as all the elements that prevent access to the casing in which the motor is located are removed, find the wires coming from the motor, and to be more precise, one Plus wire and one Minus wire, and so the minus (Indicated by the green arrow) is fixed on nut (Indicated by a blue arrow), you unscrew it, but the plus (Indicated by a yellow arrow) is connected to another wire by means of a block of wires and a connector (see small photo), disconnect them from each other.
3. Then, use a flat screwdriver to pry off four latches (They are indicated by arrows) that fasten two casings together, on one of which the stove motor is fixed, all latches that will be broken during their removal, be sure to change them to new ones, when reassembling, it is recommended to install all the latches up to one in their places in order to exclude the movement of the cases between themselves.
4. And finally, unscrew all the screws that fasten the casings together, there are only about 8 or 10 of these screws (We can be wrong), when they are all unscrewed, the casings can be separated (see small photo), but just remember where which screws twisted, because they have different lengths and long you can not wrap where the short ones should be located and vice versa.
The stove motor can be removed assembled with the casing, or you can immediately remove it separately, it’s up to you to decide, but by removing everything as an assembly, the motor will be much easier to disconnect (Since it will be more convenient), and the motor is separated as follows, you will only need just take out two wires (minus wire and plus wire) from the hole into which they are threaded in the casing and that's it!
5. Installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal, after installing the stove, you will have to use the help of an assistant and find out whether you installed the stove correctly in its regular place or with a warp (If it is warped, then you will need to remove it immediately), in general, closer to topic, ask an assistant, or even get into the car yourself and turn on the stove, while assembling it, i.e. tighten the fastening screws (You don’t even need to tighten everything) and install the clamps and, of course, put the minus on the body, and connect the plus to the connector, then turn it on and if everything works fine in all modes, then turn it off and go tighten the last screws, install the pads under windshield and, of course, install the brushes, this completes the replacement, if after turning on a crackling sound is heard, then this only means one thing, namely that the blades of the stove touch the body in which it is located, then turn off the stove, unscrew the screws , remove the latches and remove the body along with the stove, place the motor correctly there, tighten everything again and try until the noise disappears, as it disappeared, wrap everything and install all the parts in the reverse order.
Interior fan replacement work
Replacing the stove motor vaz 2110
The subsequent change of the heater motor will be carried out directly from the passenger compartment:
Under the dashboard you need to find the block that goes to the electric motor. She disconnects.
After that, you will need to unfasten the mass wiring of the electric motor. As a rule, it is pressed by the front fixing nut of the stove to the body.
The lining and lining of the windshield frame are dismantled, while unscrewing the fixing screws is indispensable.
The right upholstery is removed from the interior stove, and the fixing nuts with screws should also be unscrewed.
Heating hoses are disconnected
At this stage of work, maximum caution must be observed, since antifreeze residues may leak from these hoses and the heater radiator.
In order to avoid the smell of coolant in the car, you need to lay a material that absorbs moisture well.
The wiring is disconnected from the electric motor, from the microreducer, and also from the pneumatic valve.
After these steps, remove the front housing with the casing of the stove. These elements are fixed with brackets and screws.
It is worth paying attention that the engine and motor are located on the casing.
The latches are removed, and the engine with the motor is removed.
Recommendations for replacing the motor
Replacing the stove motor vaz 2110
You can disassemble the electric motor yourself only to evaluate the collector and to clean it. If the cause of the breakdown is in a different situation, then it is undesirable for a non-specialist in working with such parts to disassemble. It is better to buy a new electric motor.
Note! It is also not recommended to dismantle the motor impeller on your own, because when it is put in its place, the balance, which plays an important role, will be disturbed. Naturally, the electric motor will function, but not smoothly, which may lead to the breaking of the bearings, the appearance of noise when the stove is turned on.
Since the stove is in a disassembled state, it becomes possible to safely view other components of the cabin heater. So:
- In order for more heat to come from the radiator, you need to dismantle it and rinse it.It is fixed on the rear casing of the heater, which is removed by unscrewing the fixing screws. After that, the radiator is freely removed and washed under the pressure of water flowing from the hose, which is connected to the inlet or outlet pipe of the radiator. With the same pressure, dirt and surfaces of the removed radiator are washed off.
- To disassemble the air ducts and stove control mechanisms, you will need to remove the dashboard, which houses the main air ducts.
Note! Usually the main ducting panel is made as one piece, so it must be handled with the utmost care so that it does not have to be changed later. After that, it is required to remove the interior air ducts, which are fixed with special screws, and the decorative lining of the floor tunnel
After that, it is required to remove the interior air ducts, which are fixed with special screws, and the decorative lining of the floor tunnel.
Note! Under this lining are air ducts for heating the legs, which are attached to the body with screws and latches.
- The air distributor is removed from the dashboard by unscrewing the fixing screws and disconnecting the damper control rod.
- Reassembly must be done in the reverse order of disassembly. If necessary, the seals of the dampers are fixed with glue. You can also seal the places where the hoses with the radiator are attached with a sealant.
- When all the parts are assembled and installed in their places, the functioning of all nodes is checked and antifreeze or antifreeze is poured. It all depends on personal preference.
- At the final stage, the tightness of the hoses to the radiator and the operation of the assembled stove are checked.
For those who perceive information visually, it is recommended to watch a video with a detailed description of the actions and a few photos that will help you do everything right.
Repair work can be done with your own hands, but subject to clear instructions. This will help to save a lot, because the price for services of this kind in car services is not cheap.
Causes of the malfunction
There can be many nuances that the heater motor began to work poorly. Among them are the two main ones that can be helped by a small repair, rather than a complete replacement of the fan. The commutator brushes may well be worn out. The brushes themselves, in turn, can “gnaw through” the copper lamellas at the collector, because of which it does not want to work, the heater motor “stops”.
Although this happens quite rarely, the brass bushings of the plain bearings can creak or whistle. Repairs are made by normal lubrication, although this usually does not help for long, sooner or later the electric motor will need to be changed. So, if you still have to get to the stove fan, perhaps replacing it completely will be the best way out. Plus, it saves you time.
SAUO adjustment
To check the functionality of the device, you should take a mercury thermometer and put it near the temperature sensor. After that, it is necessary to activate the stove controller, and set the fan control knob to position "A". The ACCS should only be fine-tuned if, after 15–20 minutes, the temperature is more than two degrees below the sensor readings.
To make the ACS work better, you will have to pull it out and then turn the knob located on the left side of the controller several times. You can achieve an increase in temperature by turning the knob clockwise, and a decrease - respectively, counterclockwise.
After all the manipulations carried out, it will be necessary to check the functionality again and, if necessary, repeat everything from the beginning.
Causes of the malfunction
As a rule, there are many reasons for such a malfunction, these include:
- slag clogging from;
- oven motor failure.
If the furnace motor does not function, or some of its speeds are not working, then it is first recommended to check the resistor, which in other words can be called the stove rheostat.
This element is responsible for the speed of the fan.
You can buy such a part in a specialized store that sells auto parts. As for the replacement, this can be done with the help of a master or on your own, which is not so difficult even for an inexperienced specialist.
There are heater malfunctions that any motorist can easily fix. For example, a situation may occur when cold air blows through the side deflectors and the windshield heating air duct of the heating system, while a hot air flow comes from the lower and central air ducts.
Most likely, the reason will be unsatisfactory work, which is designed to cut off cold air. In some cases, it prevents the normal passage of cold air.
Such malfunctions are most easily detected in the cold season.
When bending the damper drive rod, special care must be taken not to break the plastic parts.
Note that plastic becomes more brittle in winter.
Of course, a non-functioning stove causes many problems in the winter.
If this is not so important in summer, then windows will fog up in winter.
You can figure out what the reason is when disassembling the heating system of the car
11. Heater motor
7.11.1. Design features
GENERAL INFORMATION |
Scheme of automatic heater control system
|
|
1 – fan motor; 2 - additional resistor; 3 – controller; 4 - mounting block; 5 – ignition switch; 6 – the air temperature sensor in salon; | 7 – recirculation switch; 8 – recirculation valve; 9 – micromotor reducer of the heater damper drive; A – to the instrument lighting switch; V - to power supplies |
3Scheme
heater automatic control systemsAddresses of output plugs of the control system controller
heater
The controller receives information from:
– sensor 6 cabin air temperature (a small-sized
fan);
– micromotor reducer shaft position sensor 9 heater damper actuator,
those. information about the position of the heater damper.
Based on the information received and the set air temperature, the controller controls
position of the heater damper, giving the appropriate signals to the micromotor reducer
damper drive.
If the fan control knob is in the
A, then the controller also controls the fan speed depending on
from the difference between the air temperature in the passenger compartment and the temperature controller.
A valve is used to accelerate the heating of the air in the cabin. 8 recycling
with switch 7. When the valve is turned on, the flow to the passenger compartment is blocked
outside air and only interior air circulates through the heater.
The car is equipped with a heater fan electric motor type 45.3730,
excited by permanent magnets.
Additional resistor 2 is used to select the fan operation mode.
It has two spirals with a resistance of 0.23 and 0.82 ohms. Turning the shift knob
heater fan on the heater control panel can be connected to the circuit
motor supply either both spirals (1st speed) or a spiral with resistance
0.23 ohm (2nd speed), or turn on the motor directly without a resistor (3rd
speed).
It is recommended to replace a defective electric motor with a new one. the only possible
repair - cleaning the collector.
Addresses of output plugs of the controller of the control system
heater
Plug |
Block address | |
13-terminal |
6-terminal |
|
1 | "Minus" of the micromotor reducer shaft position sensor | Output "1" additional resistor |
2 | "Plus" of the electric motor of the micromotor reducer | — |
3 | "Minus" of the air temperature sensor in the cabin | Housing ("mass") |
4 | "Plus" of the micromotor reducer shaft position sensor | Output "3" additional resistor |
5 | "Plus" of the air temperature sensor in the cabin | Output "2" additional resistor |
6 | "Plus" diagnostic output | "Plus" power supply |
7 | — | |
8 | "Minus" of the electric motor of the micromotor reducer | |
9 | "Minus" of the diagnostic output | |
10 | — | |
11 | Input "Turn on the backlight" | |
12 | Diagnostic output "+8 V" "Plus" of the sensor motor cabin air temperature |
Furnace blows cold air
The first thing to do is to determine the cause of the breakdown. This will help find ways to solve it. But there are a lot of them, so let's look at the most popular ones.
One common cause is that only cold air comes out of the unit. This is the first sign that the stove is not working properly. The reason lies in the fact that the interior temperature sensor has broken down - it is responsible for what conditions are in the cabin, whether they meet those set by the driver. If it fails, then its readings are incorrect. Thus, the stove receives information that it is hot in the cabin. Therefore, it will produce cold air to make the environment more comfortable.
Fixing this breakdown is easy. Several steps need to be taken. First, remove the cover by unwinding it. Then install a new sensor and check it for serviceability.
Also, the reason that cold air comes out of the stove can be a breakdown of the gearmotor. To determine it, you must first check the temperature sensor for serviceability. If everything is in order with the latter, then obviously the problem lies in the gearmotor. It is worth noting that this part, like the previous one, cannot be repaired. The only way to solve the problem is to replace it with a new one.
This process is a little more complicated. It consists in carrying out the following actions. Wipers are removed first. Then you need to unscrew the bolts that are responsible for fastening the frill, and remove it so that it does not interfere. Thus, access to the element that failed is obtained.
Then you need to remove the gearmotor itself. To do this, its mount is unscrewed. A Phillips screwdriver will help with this. Next, carefully disconnect all wires. This should be done as carefully as possible so as not to damage anything. This is the only way you can completely dismantle the broken part. By the same principle, but in reverse, install a new element. When doing this, make sure that the cut of the part clearly hits the shutter.
Training
The preparatory activities do not include many complex operations. You will need to do the following:
- Remove the negative terminal from the battery to de-energize the car and protect the car from possible short circuits;
- Drain the coolant from the system. To do this, the cap of the expansion tank is opened to relieve excess pressure, and then the drain is unscrewed. The liquid must be drained into a specially prepared container.
When draining the coolant, one important rule must be observed - the procedure is carried out only when the engine is cold. If in the future you are going to use the same antifreeze or antifreeze, then choose a clean container for draining
If in the future you are going to use the same antifreeze or antifreeze, then choose a clean container for draining.
The design of the heater VAZ-2110
SAUO replaced the manual control of the heater, but otherwise the stove remained structurally the same.As in earlier models, the interior heating system is a housing with a radiator installed inside, connected to the cooling system of the power unit - a heat source, dampers that redirect the air flow to the desired zones, and a fan driven by an electric motor, which creates air flow. ACS is a controller that, depending on the set parameters, monitors the temperature in the cabin and adjusts the position of the dampers, maintaining the specified mode.
The efficiency of the VAZ-2110 interior heater would be low without the forced creation of an air flow, and this task lies with the stove fan.