Not a puff of smoke past we make a chimney deflector

Deflector Volpert Grigorovich

This type of device is the most effective and popular. Therefore, we will talk about it in more detail.

Not a puff of smoke past we make a chimney deflector

This deflector is often placed on the chimneys of gas boilers. The key feature of this design is the presence of an inverted cone under the umbrella. Therefore, during side blowing, a reduced pressure arises in the channel, and combustion products rush out of the gas duct.

With a strong wind "from top to bottom", the pressure in the deflector zone may, on the contrary, increase. This point must be taken into account when designing and installing a smoke exhaust system. But in most cases, airflow occurs precisely from the side. Therefore, the considered variety of products is suitable for most gas ducts.

They look like this:

  • diffuser diameter: bottom - 2*D, top - 1.5*D;
  • diffuser height - 1.5 * D;
  • immersion of the channel in the diffuser - 0.15 * D;
  • the height of both cones of the umbrella is 0.25*D;
  • the distance between the diffuser and the cap is 0.25*D.

Not a puff of smoke past we make a chimney deflector

How to build a deflector yourself

The deflector has its own parameters. So, its height should be 1.6-1.7 of the inner diameter of the chimney channel, and its width should be 1.7-1.9. Diffuser width - 1.2-1.3. But first, let's decide on the material from which it will be made:

If your chimney has a hole, birds often find it tempting to get inside. In the chimneys, small brownish black birds nest in the chimney with a penchant for building. Having these birds in your chimney can be quite annoying - they are vocal little buggers!

When you find yourself stranded by smokestacks that are classified as endangered species, there is little that can be done legally. The Migratory Bird Migration Act, a federal regulation, prevents the removal of quick eggs and chimney chicks. The best thing you can do with quick ones is to clean up after they're gone. Technicians can be called later to clean and remove nest debris from the chimney.

  • Copper;
  • Galvanized iron;
  • Stainless steel.

Why copper if it is such an expensive material? The fact is that the deflector is located in one of the most inaccessible places in the bath, and therefore, so that it does not have to be repaired, it is better to make it as resistant to atmospheric phenomena as possible. And copper in this regard is the best.

Chimneys and most other birds are less likely to return to their nesting site if the nest has been removed. Several animals can get into your chimney, including squirrels and bats. Raccoons, usually females, enter the birthing chimneys and take care of the pups. Terrible as they are, mother raccoons sometimes manage not only to get inside the chimney, but to pass through the smoke shelf or right above the fireplace. If they've gotten this far, there's a good chance they'll eventually break into your home. If not, you will probably have to at least deal with various animal odors.

And here's how you can make a deflector:

  1. Draw on the cardboard a development of all the main parts, such as the hood, diffuser and outer cylinder.
  2. Transfer everything to the metal and cut with metal scissors according to these patterns.
  3. Connect the parts to each other with rivets, bolts or welding.
  4. Make brackets from a strip of metal - with them you will fix the cap on the surface.
  5. Attach the return cone to the cap.

The deflector itself must first be assembled, and only then installed on the roof. We put the lower cylinder first and fix it with bolts and nuts. Using clamps, we fix a diffuser on the lower cylinder, and on it - a cap with a reverse cone.

The raccoon is an animal you would never want to hang as they are known for carrying various diseases. Raccoons are home to bugs like fleas and ticks, which you or your pets can get, as well as diseases like rabies and roundworms.

Luckily, there are ways to get a mom and her kids out of the chimney. If you don't mind the smell, items like predator urine can get rid of raccoons. The humane removal method is a living trap.You will probably want to catch the mother while she is walking through or even trying to scare her in some way. Babies still can't stand much of the fight, so it's pretty easy to get to the fireplaces and grab them.

Purpose and use of deflectors

Not a puff of smoke past we make a chimney deflector

As a rule, chimney systems are considered the most important element of the entire heating system, because it is the operation of the chimney that affects the process of fuel combustion and the removal of all combustion products from the system and the house in particular.

The entire process of operation of the heating boiler depends on the quality of the air supply and on the complete removal of smoke from the system. Without the proper amount of oxygen, the combustion process is impossible, and food residues in the living space can seriously harm the health of residents.

In order to organize the correct level of draft in the system, it is necessary to know some features of the chimney, the device and organization of which must be correct. First of all, it is worth considering the required section of the pipedesigned for air inflow and exhaust. Important factors can be considered the height of the chimney and its configuration. Now let's look at these requirements in more detail.

The choice of the desired section directly depends on the power of the thermal energy generator. The flue duct or passage itself must be of a vertical type and straight enough so that air pockets are not created during operation.

In the event that compliance with these requirements did not give a tangible result, it is worth resorting to using a deflector that is mounted on the top of the chimney pipe.

The principle of operation of the deflector is to use the wind as an additional tool to equalize or increase the level of thrust in the system. Outwardly, it looks like this. At the end of the pipe, a part of the system is installed, which has a larger internal diameter than the chimney itself.

A strong wind allows you to create a rarefied space in the deflector, into which all the combustion products remaining in the chimney move.

Among other things, the deflector also has additional useful features that have a positive effect on the entire operation of the chimney channel. With the help of such an element, you can protect the system from rainwater and snow entering it in winter. As a rule, this helps the system to function efficiently in any weather.

Self-manufacturing of the device

For work you will need:

  • galvanized or stainless steel sheet 0.5-1 mm thick;
  • metal scissors;
  • riveter;
  • drill;
  • sheet of thick paper or cardboard.

The most important step is drawing up a drawing. To do this, it is necessary to measure the inner diameter of the chimney and calculate the parameters of the product according to the table.

If the inner diameter of your chimney differs from the parameters given in the table, the calculations are performed as follows:

  • diffuser width is 1.2 d;
  • protective umbrella width - 1.7-1.9 d;
  • the total height of the structure is 1.7 d.

Both measurements and calculations should be as accurate as possible so that there are no difficulties during the installation of the structure and its subsequent operation. If the pipe has a square section, then the deflector must also be made square, although the angularity of the body slightly reduces the efficiency of the device.

Step, No. Description Illustration
Step 1. On paper, a full-size drawing of the deflector parts is made and cut out.
Step 2 The blanks are fastened and tried on to each other. If all the elements match, you can start cutting galvanizing.
Step 3 The templates are laid out on galvanized steel, carefully outlined with a marker, cut out with scissors for metal. On sections, the metal is bent by 5 mm with pliers and tapped with a hammer.
Step 4 In places of bends, the metal must be riveted with a hammer to make the edges thinner.
Step 5 The diffuser blank is rolled up into a cylinder, holes for fasteners are drilled and connected with bolts or rivets.You can also use welding, but not arc, but semi-automatic, so as not to burn through the metal through.
Step 6 Do the same for the outer cylinder. Next, the cap blank is rolled up with a cone and also connected with rivets or welding.
Step 7 3-4 strips 6 cm wide and up to 20 cm long are cut out of galvanized steel. The strips are folded along on both sides, tapped with a hammer along the entire length. On the inside of the cap, stepping back from the edge of about 5 cm, drill the required number of holes for the bolts around the circumference. Fix the galvanized strips on the cap and give them a U-shape.
Step 8 With the help of these homemade brackets, the cap is attached to the diffuser, and then the entire structure is inserted into the shell.

If the design should have a reverse cone (Grigorovich deflector), the diameter of the protective umbrella is made 3-4 cm larger than the diameter of the cone. After assembling both elements, the cone is applied on the inside of the umbrella and circled around the perimeter with a marker. Then two cuts are made on the protruding part of the umbrella and the resulting strip is folded inward. In the same way, another 6-8 strips are made at an equal distance from each other, they are bent inward and the reverse cone is securely fixed without additional fasteners and welding.

It is more convenient to attach a cap with a reverse cone to the diffuser with construction studs. To do this, before installing the cone on the umbrella, three holes are drilled in it around the circumference, the ends of the studs are inserted and the nuts are tightened. Then they put an umbrella on top, fix the cone in the manner described above. In the upper part of the diffuser, from the outside, hinges made of tin or aluminum are riveted and the lower ends of the studs are inserted into them. This design withstands strong gusts of wind, serves for a long time and reliably.

In a similar way, you can assemble a deflector of any type, the main thing is to draw up the correct drawing. The only difference will be in the number and shape of the parts. The finished device can only be mounted on the chimney.

How much does a deflector cost

Ventilation devices are calculated together with the entire system. Deflectors of a specific model can be purchased for the required pipe diameter.

Table. Prices for deflectors

Name Model Steel type Channel diameter, mm Price, u. e.
"Vent-Class" D-120 Deflector Khanzhenkov galvanized 120 18
"Vent-Class" D-250 Deflector Khanzhenkov galvanized 250 42
"StoveFireplaces" TsAGI-100 TsAGI deflector galvanized 100 17
"StoveFireplaces" TsAGI-220 TsAGI deflector galvanized 220 40
Turbovent Stabil 120 Volpert-Grigorovich galvanized 120 21
Turbovent Stabil 260 Volpert-Grigorovich stainless steel 260 46
Turbovent "Dragon" Dr-150-CH-A Turning stainless steel 150 100
Turbovent "Dragon" Dr-200-CH-A Turning stainless steel 200 115
Turbovent "Dragon" Dr-300-CH-A Turning stainless steel 300 140

Deflectors are often made in handicraft workshops and small workshops (in this case, the product may not have a specific name and reference to the model). An indicator of the quality of the company's work will be a product passport indicating the dimensions of the parts, steel grade and other details.

Self-manufacturing deflector-weather vane

The weather vane allows you to reduce the height of the pipe by increasing the draft, as it is always in the right relation to the wind, prevents precipitation from entering the pipe and decorates the roof.

Tools and supplies for work

To make one of the options for a wind vane on a chimney pipe with your own hands, you need to add to the above tools and materials:

  • set of wrenches;
  • pipe section;
  • a metal (preferably stainless steel) rod or a ready-made hairpin;
  • die for threading on the rod;
  • tap for threading under fixing bolts;
  • bolts for fixing bearings in the pipe;
  • 8 nuts that will need to be screwed onto the rod to fix the bearings and secure the deflector housing.
  • two bearings, the size of which is selected according to the diameter of the rod and the inner diameter of the pipe.

Not a puff of smoke past we make a chimney deflector

Step by step instructions and important notes

Operating procedure:

  1. Initially, a drawing is made, according to which patterns for parts are then made from a sheet of galvanized steel.
  2. Using patterns, the contours of the deflector elements are applied to the steel sheet with a special chalk or marker.
  3. Scissors for metal cut parts from a metal sheet.
  4. The deflector body is assembled from the prepared elements by drilling holes and fastening them with rivets. It is necessary not to forget to make brackets, through which the body will be mounted on the rod.
  5. A rod or a stud of the required length is cut off so that it is enough to secure the bearings and fix the deflector housing.
  6. If a rod is used, then the thread is cut with a die.
  7. Next, two bearings are attached to the stud with the distance between them necessary to create a sufficient stop when the deflector-weather vane rotates. To secure each bearing, the first nut is first screwed on, then the bearing is put on the axle, then the second nut is screwed on and the nuts are tightened until the bearing is well fixed.
  8. Cut the pipe to the required length.
  9. Holes are made in the pipe at the locations of the bearings. They cut the threads for the bolts with which the bearings will be fixed in the pipe with a tap. Holes are also prepared for fixing the supports that fix the entire device.
  10. A ring is made from a steel strip to fix the deflector to the chimney.
  11. Segments are cut that are used as supports for attaching the block with bearings to the ring that secures the product to the chimney.
  12. Perform the final assembly of the product using rivets and fixing bolts.

Not a puff of smoke past we make a chimney deflector

There are a lot of options on how to make a deflector on a pipe with your own hands. Everyone chooses for himself what type of device is best suited. It should only be noted that such a design, placed on a pipe for removing combustion products, performs several useful functions - it increases traction when venting gases, protects the chimney from debris and precipitation getting inside. After installing the deflector on the chimney, the heating efficiency in the house increases significantly.

Grigorovich deflector manufacturing steps

The simplest product is the Grigorovich device, which is easy to make for most people.

Calculations and preparation of drawings

When drawing drawings and sizing this product, the following ratio applies:

  • the height of the structure is approximately 1.7d;
  • the cap must be made with a width of 2d;
  • the diffuser width should be about 1.3d.

Not a puff of smoke past we make a chimney deflector

The symbol d means the diameter of the smoke channel. If a different aspect ratio is used in the manufacture, this will negatively affect the efficiency of the created device.

According to the drawn drawings, patterns are prepared that are used when cutting galvanized iron into elements, from which the product is then assembled. To do this, on cardboard, using a ruler, tape measure and pencil, transfer the contour of the elements in expanded form and in full size. When making a deflector for the chimney pipe designed by Grigorovich, they prepare patterns for the outer cylinder, diffuser and cap.

Not a puff of smoke past we make a chimney deflector

Stages and nuances of manufacturing a deflector

Next, the following work with metal is performed:

  1. Using the prepared patterns, the contours of the necessary details are applied to the sheets of metal, circling figures made of cardboard with special chalk. In the absence of special chalk, you can use a simple pencil. 20 mm are added to the contour of the parts in the places of overlap, which will allow you to save the necessary configuration of the finished elements during assembly.
  2. Using metal shears, the elements necessary for assembly are cut out of galvanized metal, thereby preparing the outer cylinder, the diffuser, both parts of the cap - the umbrella cap together with the reverse cone in expanded form.
  3. Then, using a hacksaw, metal strips or a corner are cut into pieces of the desired length, through which all the elements will be connected into the finished product.
  4. Details are given the necessary shape by folding and bending them in a certain way.
  5. The next step is to assemble the product. The elements are superimposed on each other and, using an electric drill, drill the necessary holes. Using rivets placed in prepared holes, the parts are fastened together.
  6. For mounting the Grigorovich device on the chimney, two options can be used - in the first case, through holes are drilled at the attachment point, through which the structure is fixed with fasteners on the chimney, and in the second option, a clamp is made from a strip, through which the deflector is fixed on the pipe.

Not a puff of smoke past we make a chimney deflector

Application of deflectors

The main quality of the deflectors for which they are used is the ability to increase traction by diverting external air flows. Regardless of the design, any deflector works according to a single principle - the air bypassing the obstacle creates a zone with low pressure, due to which the draft in the chimney increases. A good deflector can increase the efficiency of a flue system by 20%.

In addition, the deflector has an additional function that occurs indirectly - an obstacle installed on the chimney pipe prevents precipitation and various debris from entering it.

Not a puff of smoke past we make a chimney deflector

The design of a simple deflector includes two cylinders, one of which is at the bottom and the other at the top, and a protective cone, also called an umbrella. The lower cylinder is usually part of a chimney made of metal or asbestos cement. For the manufacture of the deflectors themselves, galvanized metal is used.

There are several standard deflector options:

  • TsAGI deflector;
  • "Volper" with a round body;
  • Grigorovich deflector;
  • Open deflector Astato;
  • H-shaped;
  • Star Shenard.

Not a puff of smoke past we make a chimney deflector

Different types of deflectors are used in the following types of structures:

  • Collective and private ventilation shafts;
  • Collective and private chimneys;
  • Systems for removing gases and products of their combustion;
  • Trunks of garbage chutes.

Errors and problems with the device

With a deflector, as with all devices, troubles can arise. One, the biggest and quite preventable, is wrong work. This happens if the device was selected the wrong size. It can simply fall into the chimney pipe, blocking the way for the exit of combustion products.

To avoid this situation, you need to pay attention that the diameter of the deflector pipe must be equal to the diameter of the inner pipe of the chimney. If the chimney is brick, and the installed device has a circular cross section, then you cannot do without the appropriate adapters

If the chimney is brick, and the installed device has a circular cross section, then you cannot do without the appropriate adapters.

The second mistake when installing the deflector is the choice of a rotating model for areas with cold and snowy winters. Such a decision is fraught with icing of the device, and after a few days it will be covered with snow and will not only stop rotating, but will also significantly interfere with the normal operation of the chimney.

To clear everything, removing the snow and ice, you have to climb onto the roof, and this is not the most pleasant thing to do on a cold and snowy day.

The third trouble is the inefficiency of the deflector.

The problem may occur if the installation location or model is incorrectly selected:

  • the case of the device is poorly blown by winds of various directions;
  • in areas with gusty winds, an H-shaped deflector will be more effective;
  • it is necessary to avoid installing the device in the zone of an aerodynamic shadow from trees and higher structures located nearby;
  • the appliance must be located above the roof ridge and above other structures, if any, near the chimney.

If the deflector turned out to be ineffective, then it is necessary to look for the reasons for the reverse draft of the chimney.

The fourth problem is the breakdown of rotating models. The fact is that the mechanisms that provide rotation require care. More precisely, one must not forget to periodically maintain the individual parts of the deflector, lubricate the bearings in time.

If the device was made by hand, and the material used for this turned out to be cheap and of poor quality, then everything can rust very quickly. In this case, you will soon have to replace with a new deflector.

Another problem is when a simple cap is installed instead of a deflector. It can freeze and be covered with snow. This will have to be removed. It is dangerous if such a situation occurs at night and all combustion products remain in the house. This is fraught with a fatal outcome for all household members.

Therefore, you need to immediately install a deflector and not experiment with various visors-caps. If there is no desire to build an amplifier from improvised materials, you can always buy the model you like and install it on the chimney yourself.

It is necessary to take care of the normal operation of the boiler and the effective removal of combustion products at the heating design stage. Useful information on the construction of a chimney is presented in this article.

Installing the deflector with wind protection device

The wind deflector is mounted as follows:

  • Two bearings and a vertical axis are fixed in the chimney at two levels;
  • A semi-cylindrical screen, a weather vane canvas and a structure roof are successively installed on the axle.

Not a puff of smoke past we make a chimney deflector

The principle of operation of systems of this type is as follows:

  1. When the wind direction changes, the weather vane rotates and pulls the curtain behind it, covering the chimney from the wind. As a result, smoke can escape from the downwind side of the chimney at any time.
  2. Air currents pass tangentially over the semi-cylindrical screen and pull the smoke behind them, increasing the draft in the system.

To increase the efficiency of the structure, it is necessary to periodically lubricate the deflector bearings, and in the cold season, also remove the frost that occurs in the structure due to condensate. Taking into account the last nuance, we can say that such a nozzle on the chimney pipe from the wind can effectively protect only those structures that are located in warm regions.

Varieties and principles of the device and operation of deflectors

Deflectors can be made in several common configurations and designs:

Not a puff of smoke past we make a chimney deflector

  • deflectors of the TsAGI type;
  • round type deflector (Volper);
  • deflector designed by Grigorovich;
  • open and H-type deflector.

The deflector itself has a design consisting of several separate parts. These parts include the lower type cylinder, diffuser and umbrella. The diffuser has the form of a cylinder located at the top of the element, and an umbrella protects the chimney from rain and snow. As a rule, deflectors are made of galvanized steel, which eliminates the possibility of metal corrosion and such debris.

The work of the deflector does not have any features in its concept that even a novice master is not able to master. The wind flow goes around the entire deflector, colliding with it. This allows air to enter the upper deflector cylinder, increasing the draft in the chimney and drawing out any smoke that has stagnated in the system. Due to the intensive movement of air inside the deflector, the traction force increases several times.

The device of this element allows you to increase traction even when the wind flow moves in a vertical direction. To do this, in the upper part of the cylinder there are special gaps through which air penetrates into the ventilation and chimney systems.

It is worth considering such a thing as a downwind, which can make it difficult to remove smoke and reduce the level of draft in the pipe. Due to such a wind flow, versatile wind flows are formed under the deflector umbrella, which clog the entire pipe.

Varieties of caps for the chimney

Before you make a chimney cap with your own hands, you need to decide what shape it will have, and then make a drawing. The most common forms that a chimney cap can have are:

Chimney caps differ in design features and the material used in the manufacture of the product, but they all serve to enhance draft and protect the chimney from atmospheric phenomena.

When choosing an option, you should take into account the overall architectural appearance of the house. So, a chimney cap with a flat copper top is usually installed on Art Nouveau houses. For the European style of the house, it is better to make a visor over the chimney with semicircular tops. Vanes with gabled roofs serve for effective ventilation and protect the structure from filling with snow.

A special damper can be placed in wind vanes with a built-in weather vane, which in windy weather allows combustion products to escape unhindered. Chimneys with an opening lid are very practical, they allow you to clean the chimney channels without much effort (see).

Downwind deflector protection

Due to the presence of this feature of wind flows, deflectors began to be equipped with special protective devices that help increase the level of thrust in the pipe in any weather. To do this, an axis is installed inside the chimney on two bearings located at different levels.

A semi-cylindrical type screen, a vane sheet and a cover are installed on the axle. It is this design that protects the entire chimney from the effects of the lower wind flow.

After the direction of the wind flow changes, the vane sheet turns, while closing the chimney from the wrong wind flow. Thus, any direction and strength of the wind is not able to block the path of the exhausted smoke, and the draft in the pipe remains the same power.

Not a puff of smoke past we make a chimney deflector

Do not forget that the deflectors are designed for round pipes, which can be a problem if you have an old brick pipe with a square section. In order to solve this problem, special pipes are used that act as adapters.

With chimneys with a large square section, which are built for fireplace heating systems, it is necessary to use adapters in the form of spacer legs that connect the pipe and the deflector itself. Such legs are made of metal strips, which can be galvanized or qualitatively dyed.

Masonry chimneys need an appropriate transition with an overflow in the right direction, which allows you to connect a round deflector and a square chimney.
In other words, it is not difficult to fix this element of the chimney system in the presence of any type and shape of chimney structures.

Not a puff of smoke past we make a chimney deflector

The deflector does not have to be bought at a hardware store, because it can be extremely easy to make with your own hands. To do this, it is necessary to calculate the dimensions and shape of the element, after which you can proceed to the manufacturing process.

On galvanized steel sheet, it is necessary to draw the upper and lower cylinders of the future deflector, which is easy to do with an ordinary simple pencil. You can cut out the necessary elements with the help of metal scissors, which can easily cope with this task.

As soon as these two parts are cut and filed, which is required for high-quality joining of the two edges of one part, you can begin to fix these edges. As a rule, a welding machine, bolts or rivets are used for this.

It should be noted right away that it is extremely difficult to connect a galvanized steel workpiece using a welding machine, because it quickly burns through thin metal. It is for this reason that rivets or small bolts are most often used.

The finished conical cap must be fixed on the upper cylinder of the deflector. This is done using small brackets from the same sheet steel. Fasten the brackets to the pipe with rivets. Do not forget that the brackets should be attached only to the outer side of the deflector, so as not to create additional obstacles in its inner part for proper air flow and smoke extraction.

It is necessary to fix a cone of the reverse type to the umbrella of the element. In addition, the assembly of all parts of the deflector must be carried out directly on the pipe itself, which will allow high-quality mounting and fixing of each individual part of the structure.

Otherwise, it is possible to connect the two elements of the system poorly, which will subsequently cause a malfunction of the structure and the entire chimney as a whole. In some cases, it is simply impossible to make this design on our own.

As a rule, this happens with brick chimneys, which require high-quality adapters or racks. From this we can conclude that it is much easier, more profitable and faster to buy this inexpensive element of the system than to try to make it yourself.

It is worth recalling that for the manufacture of the deflector, only galvanized steel can be used, which successfully resists the formation of rust, which negatively affects the life and quality of the service of such a system element.

Possible problems related to system smoke

Most often, smoke in the chimney system occurs for the following reasons:

  • strong wind gusts, as a result of which air under strong pressure enters the pipe, which causes a decrease in traction force and smoke in the living room;
  • too narrow smoke passage, which is not able to provide the system with the desired level of traction;
  • insufficient height of the chimney pipe, which does not allow the necessary pressure and draft force to form in the pipe.

Statistical type deflectors are designed precisely to solve all these problems, allowing the chimney to work with the utmost correctness and quality. The use of this element of the system is relevant for private or collective ventilation and chimney systems. As a rule, there are no restrictions on the use of this auxiliary device, if its location will not interfere with other functions of the chimney.

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