Best Answers
Igor Zhebrovsky:
most likely you have partially destroyed the base under the toilet. About 20 years ago and earlier, a piece of board was embedded in the floor of the toilet room, with which it was attached, over time it rotted and collapsed, so the fasteners lost their ability to hold the toilet, plus everything, if you stood on it in order to screw in the light bulb, get something from the locker, etc., this also did not contribute to its stability. Check the fasteners at the base of the toilet (there are 2 or 4 of them), if they are loose, try tightening them with a wrench or a screwdriver. If they scroll, then it is better to remove the toilet bowl, strengthen the base and put it in a new (or new) way. In order for this process not to be delayed, use quick-hardening mixtures, and if you decide to lay tiles, then glue like Plitonit Wb (quick-hardening), this will allow you not to stretch the process in time
Oksana:
solution. . or wood chips (or other improvised material)
Tiger cub:
At the bottom there are four bolts or a dowel of a nail, I don’t know what kind of system you have there, it may have cracked
anacondus:
Replace fasteners.
Sergey Kulakov:
The toilet bowl has two screw fastenings from below - to the floor. But tightening them here most likely will not help. We need to remove the toilet and make a cement gravy. Budget option - sealant under the loose edge
Pavel Gonozov:
See German-das auto, see .1tv /videoarchive/9120
Vshivkov Alexey:
the easiest way is to pour sealant into the gap between the compact floor. geometers will freeze and you can forget about the staggering.
Farit Gafuanov:
I asked you to kill
Preparatory work before installing the toilet
Achieve a comfortable toilet pipe length
The drain sink is installed when the work on wall and floor tiling is completed.
If you install the plumbing first, and then proceed with the ceramic flooring, you will have to deal with a rather complex cut in the slabs to bypass the base of the pedestal of the plumbing fixture.
This will cause the risk of damage to the cladding if the selection of cut tiles is unsuccessful.
When facing walls and floors with ceramic tiles, you need to achieve a convenient protrusion length from the wall of the water pipe.
The outlet of the water pipe must be such that a stopcock can be installed.
Expert answers
Alexander Vasiliev:
remove that plank - taffeta naz, fill that place with mortar, drill (with a puncher), drive dowels, screw in plumbing bolts, after lubricating with silicone - so that they do not rust.
….Purr purr….:
ours is also a little staggering, hand-butt masters got caught, they say it’s possible with cement, but haven’t tried it yet
Me:
Aktimel Immunity!
Morok Morochkin:
"Super" glue and double-sided tape to help you!
Hope Oleshnya:
Call the master. . And everything will be okay!
Sergey Nechkin:
strengthen the chair
Andre the Shadow Master:
The corrugation of the fan pipe is needed, throw out the board, 4 dowels and bolts cut with bushings and cut with washers - perforate under 10 and that's it)))
Andrew Vladimirovich:
remove the toilet! then brick up two bolts with cement - dry = fasten !!!
Mikhail Zashchinsky:
Remove the bolts and place plastic or lead washers between the bolt head and the toilet.
V.V. P.:
Easy - nothing. Everything needs to be redone, down to the board. It’s hard to call this thing a “plank”: if according to the rules, then the toilet is placed on a thick board. At least 50.
Nikolay Savchenko:
The easiest way - buy a silicone sealant, and ask for the entire area under it - it will stand up like a glove
FAM:
Like everyone else, glue. Bolts are only needed to fix the adhesive. And the glue is such that then it only peels off together with a piece of concrete, or san. faience breaks.
sugar:
lose weight)))
**********:
lose weight and look for a man who can fix the toilet
125aaa:
1. Do not crawl! 2. Place the toilet seat on the sanitary silicone.
my illusion:
Even the toilet is telling you to lose weight.)
Igor Barannik:
You can pick up the clamps and strengthen the toilet on four sides. The main thing is to enclose the gum so that it does not crack and it matters what kind of floor you have. (meaning under the toilet) ...
Nika:
Tear off the hands of the one who put this toilet!
Alex Mishin:
The floor on which the toilet is placed must be level. So that the toilet bowl itself stands on it, without swinging, and the screws serve only so that it does not crawl. If there is no good enough tiler, you can put it on a solid tile (usually only porcelain stoneware is a suitable size - it is difficult to drill, but possible).
Josef Schweik:
I've had to answer this question 2 or 3 times already. The answer, by the way, was recognized as the best, so I'm just copying it:
Even with perfectly laid tiles, the toilet bowl usually staggers (due to the unevenness of its support).
- put the toilet in the place where it will be installed. Mark the places where you will drill holes (there are usually 2 of them) and outline the contour of the toilet bowl support (for example, with a felt-tip pen); - drill holes in the floor to the required depth and hammer plastic plugs into them (usually come with a toilet); - along the outlined contour, squeeze white silicone sealant out of the tube (thick enough, but so that it does not spread beyond the outlined contour; - when the sealant hardens slightly (after 15-20 minutes), put the toilet in place and secure with self-tapping screws (usually this screws with a hexagonal head (turnkey) and decorative plugs that come with the toilet); - if part of the sealant is squeezed out, cut it off with a sharp knife after it has completely hardened.
I did something like this. It stands up and doesn't wobble.
Crab:
I have two bolts. But before installing it on the mounting foam, it was glued and stands rigidly, and you can peel it off when replacing
Alexei:
silicone sealant under your 150 will not work, it is likely that the way out is to degrease and liquid nails, they are similar to 88 glue, but they harden faster and hold the seam roller.
They put it on 4 clothespins, outlined it, applied a roller of nails, a reciprocal layer on the toilet bowl, let it grab a little and pulled out the clothespins. After half an hour tightened the screws. In 10 hours it will be dead
Esya:
So the floor is not even, we have no bolts at all, there are no holes for them, and nothing staggers or moves.
Kirill Vishnevsky:
The best option was announced in the answer above. In this case, when the toilet is already standing, and its position is not very stable, it makes sense to fill the base around the perimeter of the toilet with sealant should help.
R. Optima:
In front (or behind, as it is more convenient) under the base of the toilet in the slot (or the gap when rocking, I don’t know what to call it)) push a piece of linoleum thick enough to jam this rocker)). Check, carefully cut off the excess with a knife, Treat with silicone. Until the next repair should last.
Alena Vinogradova:
Here I read on the site krepcom /blog/sposoby-krepleniya/sposoby-krepleniya-unitaza-k-polu/ how to properly install a new toilet on the floor
