How to hang the heating battery yourself

Wiring diagrams

Before you install a heating radiator yourself, decide on the method of connecting it to the network. The most commonly used schemes are:

1. Lateral (one-sided) scheme for installing heating radiators, in which the pipe supplying the hot coolant is connected to the upper pipe of the heater. The outlet pipe is connected to the lower one. This ensures high heat transfer. When connected the other way around, when the supply pipe is connected from below, and the outlet pipe is connected from above, heat transfer is significantly reduced. Such a connection in a one-pipe system requires the installation of a jumper that facilitates the operation of the system.
2. The second, diagonal connection of the heating radiator is as follows. The pipe supplying the hot coolant is connected to the upper branch pipe of the battery, and the "return" is connected below, on the opposite side of the heating device. Such a connection is advisable if the battery is long and has a large number of sections. Diagonal design guarantees maximum heat transfer. But if the supply pipe is connected from below, and the outlet pipe is connected from above, the heat transfer will decrease by 6-10%.
3. The last method - bottom connection of heating radiators - is used when the consumer wants to hide the heating pipes in the wall, in the floor or near its surface. With it, the direct and return pipes are connected from the bottom of the radiator, but from different sides. Such a connection scheme (otherwise called "Leningrad") is characterized by aesthetics, as well as low heat transfer. Heat loss is up to 15%.

You can ask the experts how much it costs to install a heating radiator, and possibly agree to their services. Experienced craftsmen will tell you which connection scheme to choose, and what auxiliary elements will be needed for installation.

To do this, first the coolant is drained from one radiator, which changes if it can be localized by closing the valves at the inlet; or from the entire one-pipe system. When performing work in an apartment building, you should contact the housing office so that its employees drain the water from the riser where the replacement is being carried out. After that, you can remove the old radiator.

To install a heating radiator yourself, you first need to install shut-off and control equipment on it.

After installation, the connections need to be crimped.

Having familiarized yourself with how to properly install heating radiators, it is worth considering whether you need to do this work yourself. If you do not have the skills to install heating appliances, it is better to hire professionals, having previously found out the prices for installing heating radiators in the locality where they will be installed.

From all of the above, it follows that the installation of heating batteries can be quite simple if you initially prepare well for it and study all the instructions that come with the device. After performing all the procedures in the prescribed sequence, the heating system will be durable and will last for decades.

Direct installation process

Before starting work, it is necessary to completely shut off the heating circuit, drain the water from the system, and the pump will help to qualitatively remove the remnants of which. Carefully check with the help of a level the battery hung on the supports vertically and horizontally.

• All plugs must be unscrewed from the device.
• Connect a valve-equipped bypass, required only for a one-pipe circuit. To connect to a two-pipe circuit, a bypass is not needed; only a drain with a valve attached to it is used for connection.

With the help of threaded rods, we connect the battery to the system, using tow or other sealant to seal the joints (if you have experience in welding, the joints of the rods and the pipeline can be welded).

It is important to note that until the end of the installation with aluminum. bimetal and steel appliances do not need to remove the packaging shell

Installation is complete, but more crimping is required. For its implementation, you will need to call a plumber. Both his experience and the device will come in handy, which does not make sense to buy for the sake of installing several batteries.

2 questions about the installation of heating radiators

Hello, I wanted to consult with members of the forum about the installation of heating batteries. Yesterday in the apartment a commercial company replaced the ancient convectors with bimetallic batteries, after installation I had questions:

In the recommendations on the Internet, and in the battery passport it is written that the gap between the battery and the wall should be 3-5 cm, how critical is this requirement? I installed the batteries almost close to the wall, the gap is less than 5 mm. Do I understand correctly that with such an installation, the rear surface of the radiator heats only the wall and the street behind it, and not the air in the room?

Question about Mayevsky taps - I read somewhere on the Internet that they should be installed with the outlet vertically down, again, how critical is this? Because with me they look anywhere - into the room, at the wall, but not down. And I also wanted to ask when exactly they should be used?

Thanks in advance for your help

the outlet piece on the Mayevsky crane is spinning. do not worry. But how did you manage to hang the batteries up close? standard fasteners will automatically give the distance.

it’s hard to say how it happened, apparently they just drove the mounting brackets into the wall all the way

a381794 wrote: apparently they just drove the mounting brackets into the wall all the way

common morons, as the young naturalists would say. In general, the customer dictates the conditions, performs operational control and makes payment after signing the certificate of completion. Something like this.

altruist777 Truly! Prosra. whether you are your happiness.

a381794 wrote: Yesterday in the apartment a commercial company replaced the ancient convectors with bimetallic batteries

why bimetal convectors and not convectors? In the general case, these are different types of heating devices, and they do not always change directly from one to the other. (the company should have warned about this) Photos of the connection show, if not difficult.

a381794 wrote: In the recommendations on the Internet, and in the battery passport it is written that the gap between the battery and the wall should be 3-5 cm, how critical is this requirement?

3.20. Radiators of all types should be installed at distances, mm, not less than: 60 - from the floor, 50 - from the bottom surface of the window sills and 25 - from the surface of the wall plaster. In the premises of medical and preventive and children's institutions, radiators should be installed at a distance of at least 100 mm from the floor and 60 mm from the wall surface. In the absence of a window sill, a distance of 50 mm should be taken from the top of the appliance to the bottom of the window opening. With open laying of pipelines, the distance from the surface of the niche to the heaters should ensure the possibility of laying connections to the heaters in a straight line. 3.21. Convectors must be installed at a distance of: at least 20 mm from the wall surface to the fins of the convector without a casing, close to or with a gap of no more than 3 mm from the wall surface to the fins of the heating element of the wall-mounted convector with a casing, at least 20 mm from the wall surface to the casing of the floor convector . The distance from the top of the convector to the bottom of the window sill must be at least 70% of the depth of the convector. The distance from the floor to the bottom of a wall-mounted convector with or without a casing must be at least 70% and not more than 150% of the depth of the installed heater.If the width of the protruding part of the window sill from the wall is more than 150 mm, the distance from its bottom to the top of the convectors with a casing must be at least the height of the casing, necessary for its removal. Connection of convectors to heating pipelines should be carried out by threading or welding.

Fasteners for steel radiators

There are two different types in this group: tubular and panel radiators. They have a different design, respectively, a different mount.

In panel radiators, brackets are welded on the back wall, with the help of which they are hung on brackets. The shape of this type of fastener is different: it is designed specifically for staples.

In panel radiators, brackets are welded on the back wall

When installing panel radiators, it is necessary to strictly monitor the vertical position of the brackets. High precision required: four or six staples must hit the hooks exactly

It is also important that the wall is perfectly flat and smooth. In general, using conventional brackets, panel radiators are quite difficult to hang

It is easier to work with other types of holders.

Standard bracket for panel radiator

Since the mass of the heater is small, it is enough to fix it on the upper brackets, install stops at the bottom, which will give it a direction in the horizontal plane. They are not attached to the wall, but cling to the bracket with hooks and simply rest against the wall. For reliability, the part that faces the wall is expanded.

This is how a set of brackets for tubular steel batteries looks like: the upper collector is hung on the hooks, and plastic stops are placed below

There are also special mounting brackets for easy mounting. They are a strip of metal with plastic clips at the top and bottom. When using this mount, the brackets on the rear panel are not needed. The slats are fixed on the wall, a radiator is inserted into them, which is held with plastic hooks.

Plank for quick mounting of panel batteries

Fasteners for tubular radiators are similar to sectional ones: the same hooks, only of a different size, often equipped with plastic lining.

There is also a special fastener with SMB tube grips. This is a strip of steel with plastic clips and a shelf at the bottom, which serves as a support for the radiator. This mounting plate can be used if the weight of the device filled with water does not exceed 100 kg. Installation is simple: put the battery on a shelf, bring the top edge closer to the latches. They grab the nearest tube, a click is heard. The radiator is installed, you can connect the supply pipes.

Bracket for quick mounting of a tubular radiator with a shelf and clamps

There is a second option for quick mounting: SVD fasteners. It consists of two parts. One is attached to the radiator, the second, to the wall. Then they are connected to each other and fixed with a steel loop.

Another type of holders for tubular models: two parts, one is mounted on the wall, the second is fixed on the pipe. Between themselves, they are pulled together with a wire clamp.

Floor mounting for tubular radiators can be of several types: tubular stops that are welded at the factory, or racks with hooks. Radiators are hung on such racks, and the racks themselves are attached to the floor.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=VkAVZDnvz6w

Brackets for radiators are of different types and types: for wall and floor installation. The standard ones that come with the kit are reliable, but working with them is more difficult. Planks and fast-mounting devices save time, but cost a lot.

Installation of radiators

Those who are wondering how to hang a heating radiator without the help of professional plumbers need to know what steps this process includes. So, it is necessary:

• prepare equipment and materials;
• calculate location;
• install brackets;
• hang a radiator;
• to seal or solder joints;
• check the entire system for functionality.

We purchase the necessary materials and equipment

To begin with, it should be noted that it is not recommended to install radiators in winter. And even if you decide to install heating on your own, in any case, you need to call a plumber who will disconnect your apartment from the riser. To fix the radiator on the wall, you will need such accessories for heating radiators as: corners, bushings, nipples, brackets, shackles, couplings, adapters, tow, valves, keys.

If you plan to install cast iron batteries, it is also necessary to purchase Mayevsky taps designed to bleed air from the heating system and prevent airing. Aluminum and bimetallic radiators are equipped with them initially.

Calculate location

This stage is important so that the heater works at full strength and does not collect air. For this, sections of underwater pipes should be installed at a slight slope relative to the floor. The minimum slope is 0.5 cm. Here are the optimal battery location parameters:

1. 3-5 centimeters from the wall;
2. 10 centimeters from the floor;
3. 5-10 centimeters from the windowsill.

If the selected type of battery does not have a high heat dissipation, you can also install a heat-reflecting tap on the wall behind the battery. Usually it is made of insulating material or a special heat-reflecting substance that is applied to the wall.

Installing the brackets

Brackets are called fasteners for heating radiators in the form of durable metal hooks installed inside the wall. It is easy to calculate the number of brackets: 1 piece per 1 m2 of battery. Of course, even if the entire battery area does not exceed 1 square meter, two brackets will still be needed, since fixing the structure on one will be very unreliable.

Now you need to mark their location: we use a tape measure and a level for this.

Then we drill holes in the wall, install special dowels in them, tighten the fasteners for heating radiators and use our hands to make sure that the brackets sit tight and do not hang out. If the choice fell on cast-iron batteries, you may need a special mount for cast-iron heating radiators - floor support elements in the form of legs. They will help evenly distribute the weight on all fasteners.

Installing the radiator

The last stage of the installation of the radiator. We hang the battery and check how tightly it sits, whether the mass of the structure is equally distributed on all fasteners. Try to shake the radiator a little: if the fixation is strong enough, you can proceed to the next step.

Connecting and assembling connections

There are three different schemes for connecting radiators:

• lateral unilateral. The most popular option. The inlet pipe joins with the upper branch pipe, and the outlet pipe with the lower one on the same side;
• diagonal connection. More suitable for long radiators in large rooms and ensures uniform heating of the entire battery. The inlet pipe in this scheme is connected to the upper branch pipe on one side, and the outlet pipe to the lower one on the other;
• bottom connection. It is used in cases where the heating system is hidden in the floor. Both the inlet and outlet pipes are connected to the lower branch pipes from different sides. Heat transfer at the bottom connection is approximately 10% less than with the side connection.

Let's start assembling the connections. Regardless of which fittings for heating radiators are purchased, it is necessary to carefully seal each connection.

Any leak can literally and figuratively result in additional repair costs.

Special tapes, silicone, sealant or good old tow are used as seals.If the purchased battery is protected by a special film, it is better to remove it only after carefully pressing each connection.

Now it remains only to return the water supply to the heating system and carefully check all connections for leaks.

How to choose the right bracket

The main rule when buying a latch: it must withstand the weight placed on it. The maximum load is usually indicated in the attached instructions. It is easiest to choose a bracket for an aluminum radiator, as it weighs little and any type is suitable for it.

For very powerful batteries, take floor stands. But if the flooring in the house is wooden, then you need to make sure that the latches are equipped with additional fasteners to the wall. This is necessary in order to reduce the load on the boards. For light heating elements that will be located in a deep niche under the window, it is better to buy a long bracket.

It is recommended for cast iron radiators to take holders with the ability to slightly change the height, otherwise installation difficulties may arise. The price of an adjustable bracket is not so high as to give up the convenience of installation.

It is important that the composition of the alloy does not contain toxic substances released during heating. Do not buy parts from hand, especially without the appropriate accompanying documents

Please note that the lightest one - the corner bracket - is only for aluminum and copper radiators.

Necessary tools and materials

The technology of unscrewing and assembling cast-iron batteries: a - nipples capture the threads of sections (2-3 threads); b - twist the nipples, dock the sections; c - mount the third section; d - group two radiators.

Replacing or installing various cast iron radiators can take place in several stages and in completely different ways. To carry out this installation, you will need:

• gloves;
• protective glasses;
• gas welding;
• mounting keys;
• rubber gaskets;
• screwdrivers;
• radiator keys (short and long).

If you decide to install or replace it yourself, then be very careful and follow the rules of technology and safety. Welding work can be harmful.

Problems of insufficient fastening of batteries to the wall

Proper and reliable fastening of heating devices to the wall is a guarantee of peace and well-being of the residents of the apartment. Insufficient fixation of batteries, especially in combination with the following factors, may cause the product to deform or leak seals, which will cause leakage

That is why it is very important to install them correctly and reliably.

So, the factors that exacerbate improper mounting of batteries:

• mechanical damage to devices during the operational period;
• distortions of heating radiators when filling them with water.

Some subtleties of hanging a radiator expert advice

After mounting the radiator on the installed fasteners, it is necessary to check the correctness of its placement in the horizontal and vertical planes.

Checking the correct placement of the radiator in the horizontal and vertical planes

It is allowed to raise the edge of the radiator, on which the air vent is located. This will ensure that the air that has entered the system is collected at the highest possible point, and its release will be carried out quickly and with maximum efficiency.

Air vent for radiator

But a change in level of more than one centimeter is unacceptable, as well as a reverse slope. In this case, the formation of an air pocket is guaranteed, and the supply of coolant further along the pipeline will be limited or stopped.

Advice! Almost all heating companies require installers to install only on pre-prepared walls. That is, the surface must be smooth and clean.This will allow for the correct marking of places for fasteners.

The heating radiator is hung on two hooks (brackets), which are located in the upper part, and the third must be installed as a support for the lower edge of the device. The installer must remember that the number of brackets is determined by the weight and length of the battery.

How to install a heating radiator

You need to hang a heating radiator on a wall or in a niche after the surface is completely puttied. However, for this, connections for radiators must be removed from the wall or niche in advance. Depending on the type of connection of heating batteries, these can be either chrome-plated pipes or simply metal-plastic or plastic pipes.

To install a heating radiator on a wall, you must first correctly carry out marking work. This will require, first of all:

• Roulette and building level;
• Pencil;
• A long rule or a piece of an even profile;

Before installing a heating radiator with your own hands, it is imperative to determine its height, as well as how the radiator will hang, in a niche or under a window. According to the rules in niches, heating radiators are installed in the center, and under the windows on the turn, as low as possible from the floor. If we talk about the height of the heating radiator at which it should be installed, then this distance does not exceed 15 cm from the finished floor covering.

After all the above questions are completed, you can hang the heating radiator on the wall. The first thing to do is measure the distance from the window slopes or niche edges. The resulting size must be divided in half. You need to do this in order to find the center.

Then, a vertical line is drawn from the resulting markup, from which further markup will be made to install a heating radiator. Depending on the type of heater, its installation on the wall may be different, and this applies not only to the dimensions between the fasteners.

How to hang an aluminum radiator on the wall

To hang an aluminum radiator on the wall, you need to step back two sections from each edge of the radiator to the middle. Thus, it will be seen between which sections the fasteners for fixing the aluminum radiator to the wall will be installed.

Then you should measure the distance from the places where the fasteners are installed, and then transfer them to the wall. Holes are made according to the received marks. in the wall for installing dowels in them and the subsequent installation of fastening elements of the heating radiator.

How to hang a metal radiator on the wall

Panel heating radiators (metal) can be hung on the wall in a slightly different way. Initially, everything happens, as in the first stage of installing an aluminum heating radiator. You need to find the center under the window, and then determine the height of the radiator installation from the floor.

Fasteners of a metal heating radiator are welded to its back side. Therefore, when installing a radiator on a wall, the dimensions are fixed here, they cannot be increased or decreased, as, for example, when installing an aluminum radiator on one or two sections in the middle or to the edges.

In addition, not such long hooks are used to install a metal radiator on the wall, but small fasteners. You should first measure the distance from the middle of the fasteners on a metal radiator, and then transfer them to the wall and install the heating radiator yourself.

How to hang a heating radiator on drywall

You should be aware that when installing a heating radiator, you need to take into account the material from which the wall is made, on which the heating radiator will be hung.

It often happens that when drilling, the drill gets into the brick seam, and after that the dowel does not want to stay in the hole normally.In this case, you can go in two ways: hang the heating radiator higher or lower, or seal the resulting hole with putty, and then try to drill a new hole again.

A heating radiator is hung on a plasterboard wall in a completely different way. There are no usual self-tapping screws and plastic dowels. In order to hang the radiator on a plasterboard wall, you need to purchase special fasteners (moths).

Individual heating point

Mounting aluminum radiators

Aluminum batteries are considered one of the most efficient and versatile heating devices. They have a relatively low price and a high degree of heat transfer. If the installation of the radiator has been done correctly, this type of radiator will serve you well for many years.

Radiator mounting diagram.

Aluminum batteries should be used in two- and one-pipe heating systems, involving the construction of a horizontal and vertical pipeline to connect heaters. Such batteries can be used for systems with natural and forced circulation.

Often, batteries are installed directly under the window or with the help of special racks near the window near the wall. Connect batteries from one side or from different sides.

The degree of heat transfer of the batteries depends on how correctly the fastening was performed. So, installation should be carried out in accordance with certain parameters - a distance of about 10-12 cm must be maintained to the floor, a distance of about 2-5 cm from the battery to the wall (heat loss increases with decreasing distance). To the window sill from the battery should be at least 10 cm.

In order to be able to control the level of heat in the room, it is necessary to install control valves at the outlet and at the inlet to the battery, with automatic or manual control modes.

It should be borne in mind that the installation of aluminum radiators can only be carried out by a special worker who has the appropriate license. According to the instructions, before carrying out work on the installation of radiators, you should thoroughly flush the heating system. Under no circumstances should alkaline solutions be used for flushing. Any radiator must be equipped with special valves designed to release air.

Choosing a bracket for a new heating radiator

When installing or replacing batteries yourself, it becomes necessary to select related equipment. One of the fastener elements is a bracket that allows you to securely fix the heating radiator and thereby ensure the proper operation of the entire system. The latch is a galvanized steel hook with a round or rectangular section, at the other end of which there is a mounting plate or thread.

The correct choice of brackets is very important, because the equipment should not be allowed to sag, collapse from sudden seismic activity or from an accidental impact.

Types and application of holders for radiators

Batteries are made of copper, aluminum, cast iron and bimetal (their inner layer is made of steel, the outer layer is aluminum). They are either suspended from the wall or rest on floor installations, it is possible to combine these options. Some fasteners can be adjusted in height, length. There are many types of brackets, divided into 2 large groups:

• pin (anchor) fixed (short and long) holders for bimetallic or steel radiators;
• height-adjustable (range of changes about 20 mm) with a mounting plate, allow you to hide mounting errors, uneven surfaces or hang perfectly horizontally batteries with a large number of sections (more than 6);
• corner - for small or light heating elements.

There are also anti-noise holders, with a special coating (rubberized).Specifications of this bracket for mounting radiators: material - steel, diameter - 7 mm, can withstand weight up to 82 kg. They are usually taken for bedrooms so that there is no audible small tapping that occurs in the equipment when heated.

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2. Overview of brackets for mounting a floor radiator.

They are in the form:

• independent stand with a sole, used for massive structures that are impractical to hang, for example, near a too thin (plasterboard) partition or display windows;
• additional for batteries bolted to the wall - these are the most suitable brackets for cast-iron radiators;
• racks with hooks that can be screwed to the floor and to the wall; It is also intended for overall equipment, but is used to distribute the load between planes (for example, in a wooden house).

Floor holders can also be height-adjustable. There are options:

• in the form of a stand without fixing the radiator;
• with additional holding elements: with a chain or collar;
• on a sole or on a tripod, can be screwed to the floor or simply placed on it.

Stages of work

If you decide to do the work of installing the batteries yourself, you need to know what steps this process involves.

The instruction for carrying out such work divides it into:

1. Preparation of materials and equipment.
2. Location calculation.
3. Installation of brackets.
4. Production of actual installation.
5. Soldering or sealing the joint.
6. System check.

Preparatory stage

These operations are not recommended to be performed in winter, especially during severe frosts - this is unsafe. Even if you decide to do all the work yourself, you still have to call a plumber from the ZhEK to disconnect your apartment from the common riser. In preparation for installing the system, you will need to purchase or find the following tools and supplies, such as:

• Keys.
• Tow.
• Valves.
• Drives.
• Couplings.
• Adapters.
• Brackets.
• Bushings.
• Nipples.
• corners.

If you still chose, for example, cast-iron batteries, you will probably have to buy Mayevsky cranes and install them yourself. In bimetal and aluminum sections they are already built in. This device allows you to bleed excess air from the system and maintain its functionality, preventing airing.