Fastening mineral wool to the wall

The use of dry mixes

When choosing a dry adhesive for gluing mineral wool, it should be borne in mind that it will require the builder to strictly follow the dilution instructions, thoroughly mix and “ripen” time (several minutes).

After that, the glue is applied to the insulation in wide strips (up to 10 cm) and the isolate is glued to the prepared base. 7 minutes will remain for adjustments. This is followed by a thin layer of glue (up to 15 cm wide), on which reinforcing material is applied.

Here you need to take into account one important nuance: dry mixes (mainly based on cement), it is more expedient to use if there is a need to level the walls before insulation. That is, it will be both glue and leveling composition. Such combinations are very economical for a limited budget.

With the right choice of glue, insulation material and type of insulation, as well as the correct installation work, the result will be a durable and warm house - the dream of any tenant.

With a significant jump in prices for utility bills, many homeowners began to unequivocally think about the end-to-end weathering of money from the family budget through the existing cracks in the house. For residents of multi-storey buildings, external insulation of one apartment is possible, but one should not expect very positive results. To finally stop the leakage of warm air, a more serious and global approach is needed - insulation work should be carried out in the volumes and parameters of the whole structure. The external method of warming a house with mineral wool is very effective.

Advantages and disadvantages of stone wool ceiling insulation

The fibrous material has unique characteristics, due to which it is considered the best among products of a similar purpose.

Its main advantages include:

1. Very low thermal conductivity, which creates a comfortable environment in the room.

High vapor permeability allows the floor to breathe.

Basalt wool for the ceiling is light, it is easy to cut, which significantly reduces installation time. You can do the work yourself.

It does not burn and does not emit toxic fumes when heated. Individual modifications do not melt even at a temperature of 1000 degrees. Often used in fire hazardous areas.

Low cost compared to other samples.

Low moisture absorption.

Ceilings covered with stone wool are completely environmentally friendly.

The use of the product increases the sound insulation of floors in multi-storey buildings. Such properties are provided by randomly arranged threads.

The cost of the substance is lower than other heaters.

The insulator has a shelf life of more than 100 years.

Users should be aware of the problems that sometimes arise during the operation of a room insulated with wool:

Unscrupulous sellers can sell low-grade goods with a high percentage of toxic elements.

After insulation, the distance between the floor and the ceiling decreases.

Fibers require protection from moisture. With poor-quality installation, after a year, the product loses 40% of its insulating properties.

Positive properties of mineral wool facade

1. Thermal insulation - low thermal conductivity protects housing from cold and heat leakage.
2. Sound insulation - good sound absorption is achieved due to the porous-layered structure.
3. In addition to insulation, mineral wool can be used to level curved walls.
4. Rodents and other pests do not start in the walls containing this material.
5. The facade is easily repaired.
6. Mineral wool is a non-combustible material, the method is considered fireproof.
7. The method does not affect the size of the dwelling.

Warming steps:

• The surface of the wall must be freed from loose and protruding objects (brackets, surveillance cameras, fittings).
• If there are places that need restoration (fallen off plaster, etc.), it is necessary to make repairs.
• Apply a deep penetrating primer with a brush, roller or special sprayer.
• Strengthen the basement cornice, in the future it will serve as a support, a guide for the bottom row of insulation boards. It is necessary to fix the profile to the wall with dowels at a distance of 60 cm. from the earth.
• At the corners of the building, set beacons equal to the thickness of the cotton wool plus the adhesive layer.
• Before gluing mineral wool, a specialized adhesive should be applied. Prepare the mixture according to the recipe attached to the adhesive.
• Glue is applied to the boards either in a continuous way, or in the corners and in the middle or in a strip in the center and around the entire perimeter of the board.

• Attach the smeared plate and press it against the wall, do the same with all the remaining insulation material. Eliminate the resulting cracks with small pieces of mineral wool. The vertical row should be laid with an overlap without gaps.
• To achieve a more durable result, it is recommended to drill holes in the corners and in the center of each slab and secure with dowels.
• At the next stage, it is necessary to coat the entire mineral wool sheathing with adhesive for reinforcing fiberglass mesh and put it in meter-long pieces over the entire prepared surface, with an overlap of 5 cm. Then gently press and apply another layer of adhesive base. Carefully align with a trowel (spatula).

In a day, you will need to prime again, wait 4-6 hours and you can do plastering work. You can use any plaster of your choice, either standard or textured for painting.

Installation of insulation on the walls options and methods of fastening

Any wall, regardless of the material, must meet the requirements prescribed by a number of GOSTs. This applies not only to strength, but also to the ability to retain heat. The reliability of the walls is ensured only by their durability; the right choice, coupled with the installation of insulation, will make your stay in the house comfortable.

If the goal is for residents to achieve comfort or save on heating costs, they need to be aware of the correct methods for thermally insulating the vertical surfaces of a building, including the types of fasteners. Due to the walls, the house can lose up to 30% of heat; neither the floor, nor the attic floor, nor the roof can be compared with this value.

The choice of method for fastening thermal insulation depends on the following factors:

• type of insulation chosen;
• wall material (wood, concrete, brick);
• surface structure (evenness, presence or absence of cracks).

If the fastening for a particular material is chosen correctly, the strength of the thermal insulation structure will be guaranteed. This entails extending the life of the insulation, as well as the walls. What fasteners are used to mount materials? In which case is styling more effective? This is worth considering in more detail.

Options and Features

Today, buildings are most often insulated with foam and mineral wool. In this article, we will discuss the features of fastening thermal insulation materials using mineral wool as an example. However, if you are insulating the room with another material, such as Styrofoam or Styrofoam, the article will also show the general principles for proper installation.

The principles of fastening insulation inside or outside are largely similar. However, there are also differences that need to be sorted out.

Installation of insulation on the walls inside is most often done using crates. This is a frame, in the form of bars, which are attached to the wall, and thermal insulation plates are already inserted into the formed cells.

For exterior walls, the frame method is used less frequently. More often they use fastening on glue-foam or adhesive composition with dowels.The frame from the outside is used only for cladding the facade with soft stone wool slabs in order to reduce the load on the lower rows of insulation. In this case, it is made of a metal profile or a wooden beam.

So, we have identified three ways to fix the insulation to the wall, which can be combined:

• crate;
• Adhesive composition;
• The use of dowels.

Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. Let's go in order.

fastener requirements

Dowels for fastening thermal insulation are subjected to high loads, perform functions in an alkaline environment and are placed in conditions of extreme temperatures. This means that they must meet several criteria.

Be resistant to destruction. Both the umbrella itself and the nail must be of very high strength. The nail must be made of galvanized steel so that its material does not react and begin to break down

This is especially important when the material under the “wet facade” is attached with a fungus. With this approach, the fungus is covered with a layer of plaster and is "immured" in alkali.
Passing through thermal insulation, the fungus can become a "cold bridge"

This will not happen if the material from which the fastener is made has low thermal conductivity. Thermal conductivity above 0.004 W / K is considered unacceptable.
Provide high adhesion. In the case of ventilated facades, the fungus often serves as the only retaining factor for thermal insulation. In the "wet" there is also glue-foam, but the load is much higher. The fungus must provide sufficient adhesion to the surface of the insulation and the main wall material. In addition, in the case of reinforcing foam or fiberglass insulation on top with an adhesive layer, the hat should become one with this wet composition, providing a layer of insulation.

We have set the basic requirements for fasteners for insulation, now it is important to see how the modern market satisfies these requirements. Simply put, there are two main types of umbrellas.

Simply put, there are two main types of umbrellas.

Made of galvanized steel

The nail of such umbrellas in most cases is made of galvanized steel (sometimes polyamide). And although this material resists corrosion more than other metal ones, it is still not completely protected from it. There is also a second disadvantage. The metal conducts heat well, which means that cold bridges can form at the attachment point and condensation can accumulate. Over time, cracks may appear at the attachment points. This type of fasteners has a higher cost.

• Dowel material: impact-resistant polypropylene.
• Anchor material: low carbon, galvanized steel;
• Temperature conditions: -55 - +60 degrees;
• Load: up to 750 kg per square meter.

As a conclusion: such fungi are used in the case of fastening heavy heaters, when the use of plastic ones is impossible.

Made of plastic

Dowel for thermal insulation with a plastic nail. It is used more often than metal ones, but they have a lower cost and lower strength. Although even their performance is very impressive. The temperature regime is from -40 to + 80 degrees. Such umbrellas are also able to withstand a load of 20 to 380 kg per square meter. Nylon nails are also referred to as plastic.

The dowel for thermal insulation with a thermal head is an umbrella with metal nails. A polymer head is put on the end of the anchor. This approach is used for different types of walls, but is especially necessary for wooden ones. The purpose of the head is to reduce thermal conductivity. Such elements have a higher cost (the highest among dowels), but also the lowest thermal conductivity and strength.

In addition, fungi are distinguished by length. This is an important indicator that needs to be calculated correctly. There is also a diameter of the rod under the anchor. Most often, rods with a diameter of 8-10 mm are used.

Types of fasteners for thermal insulation.

The dowel mushroom for fixing the insulation is plastic or steel. Its variety depends on the insulation with which builders have to work. Also, dowels differ from each other in the type and quality of production, in their configuration. The design may include a thermal head.

Features of plastic fasteners

There are cone-shaped holes on the surface of the umbrella. This design feature contributes to additional adhesion to the material. For the installation of non-solid materials, nylon fasteners are used, which are made from high-strength polypropylene, nylon, polyamide.

The features of such fungi include:

• lack of response to temperature changes;
• low cost;
• reduced thermal conductivity;
• excellent stability in extremely harsh conditions;
• long service life due to the absence of rot and rust;
• load endurance of 400 kg/m2.

Plastic fungi are widely used in the insulation of brick and concrete walls.

Metal fasteners

The insides of the metal mount are made of steel. The sleeve is used polypropylene, at the end of which there are spacers. With this type of fastener, a high degree of load is allowed. Telescopic fasteners technonikol are used for arranging the facade. The disadvantages of the material include:

• high price;
• the occurrence of condensate at the entry point of the metal rod;
• possible rust (metal parts come into contact with moisture, rust can appear on the plaster).

Fasteners with thermal head

It is a metal rod, which is covered with polyamide near the cap. This plastic part prevents the accumulation of condensate at the attachment points, thereby preventing rust from appearing on the plaster.

These devices are mainly used for warming houses made of wood. The advantages of these fungi are similar to the positive properties of plastic and metal fasteners. The disadvantage of the product is the high price, which surpasses all in this segment.

Ceiling insulation with stone wool

Advantages and disadvantages of insulating ceilings with stone wool, options for placing an insulator on the floor, rules for choosing material, technology for performing work.

1. Features of thermal insulation
2. Advantages and disadvantages
3. Warming technology
   • Preparatory work
   • Choice of stone wool
   • Mounting from the inside
   • Laying outside

Insulating the ceiling with stone wool is an inexpensive way to prevent heat from escaping through the ceiling by installing it from inside or outside the room. The quality of work depends on well-performed operations, so in the article we will consider the rules for placing and attaching the insulator to the surface in various situations. Using our recommendations, you can avoid unnecessary financial costs and common mistakes during insulation.

Incorrect application of glue

It is wrong when gluing is carried out only by applying "bloopers" and a layer of glue is not applied around the perimeter of the sheet. The consequence of such gluing may be the bending of the insulation boards or the designation of their contour on the fine finish of the insulated facade.

Options for the correct application of glue to the foam:

1. along the perimeter in the form of strips with a width of 4-6 cm. On the rest of the surface of the insulation - dotted with “bloopers” (from 3 to 8 pieces). The total adhesive area must cover at least 40% of the foam sheet;
2. applying glue to the entire surface with a comb spatula - is used only if the walls are pre-plastered.

Note: the adhesive solution is applied only to the surface of the thermal insulation, never to the base.

Gluing mineral wool requires preliminary puttying of the surface of the slab. A thin layer of cement mortar is rubbed into the surface of the mineral wool.

How to fix basalt insulation with internal thermal insulation

In general, insulation from the inside is undesirable due to a number of thermophysical processes occurring in the external enclosing structures. Moisture from the air and frost can lead to the accumulation of condensate under the insulation and freezing, as well as damage to the masonry and even concrete structures. However, if a thermal insulation system is the only possible solution, it must be done wisely.

• Wall alignment. Preparing the base before installing basalt thermal insulation levels out wall differences and, accordingly, eliminates the occurrence of an air gap between the certified mineral slab and the wall, in which, as you know, destructive condensate can accumulate.
• Installation of the frame for sheathing. Subsequently, the mineral wool insulation is covered with drywall or other materials; for this, guides from the metal profile should be initially fixed. In addition, the mineral wool itself will be just easier to lay in the frame.
• Installation of waterproofing. A film is unwound directly over the profiles, which will protect the basalt insulation from external moisture and remove vapors from the insulation structure.
• Minplate laying. Cotton wool is measured with the necessary layers, taking into account the springy properties of the web, and placed in the resulting gaps between the profile.
• Vapor barrier layer. This is a special film that prevents the penetration of even the smallest drops of water in the form of steam onto its inner layer. After that, you can carry out the decoration of the walls.

Consistent placement of layers will protect the thermal insulation from getting wet, and hence from the loss of insulating properties.

Overview of adhesive for mineral plates

We bring to your attention the most popular and effective types of glue for mineral wool boards:

• Ceresit CT190. This adhesive solution perfectly sticks and further protects the facade system from external influences. In addition to the ability to attach mineral wool insulation, it is also often used to fix internal insulation in the premises of a building. It has enhanced adhesive properties with respect to organic materials, is resistant to weathering, plastic, vapor-permeable, environmentally friendly, easy to use, can be applied to metal. Cost: 530 rubles for a package weighing 25 kg.
• Boliz ZW. Boliz ZW mineral wool adhesive is used to fix the base of mineral wool façade slabs when installing the thermal insulation of the outer walls of buildings. Cost: 800 rubles for a package weighing 25 kg.
• EK Thermex. This solution is applied to thermal insulation materials intended for insulating internal walls, ceilings, etc., as well as external building elements. It is also applied to heaters intended for metal surfaces, and is used to lay a reinforcing fiberglass mesh on surfaces made of concrete, brick or stone. Cost: 305 rubles for 25 kg.
• Ceresit CT180. It is a powder that tightly attaches mineral wool insulation to the outer walls of buildings. The dry adhesive mixture is resistant to a wide temperature range (from 0 degrees and more), firmly holds materials together, has high vapor permeability, is environmentally friendly and economical in consumption. Cost: 520 rubles for 25 kg.

Adhesive application process for mineral wool boards

To install the facade system you will need:

• Trowel;
• notched trowel;
• Drill;
• Dry glue Ceresit CT180;
• fastening elements.

Before applying glue to the insulation and installing it on the facade system, the surface must be cleaned of grease, dirt, dust and oils. Make sure the wall is level and free of loose joints and plaster. Seal all holes and potholes with a repair mixture.

After that, get to work:

1. Install the plinth profile;
2. Prime the wall with a special solution;
3. Prepare the adhesive layer by stirring the Ceresit CT180 mixture with the required amount of water (0.2 l of water per 1 kg of adhesive);
4. Mix the solution with a low-frequency drill with a special nozzle until a homogeneous mass without lumps is formed;
5. To increase the adhesive properties of glue and mineral wool, rub a thin layer of the mixture into the opposite side of the insulation with a spatula;
6. With a notched trowel, make transverse and longitudinal grooves;
7. Attach a reinforcement mesh to the insulation;
8. Spread the glue that has come out over the grate;
9. With a trowel, apply glue around the perimeter of the mineral wool slab in strips, each 5 centimeters wide;
10. In the center of the plate, apply 3 "cakes" of the mixture;
11. Glue the plates on the wall horizontally, starting from the basement profile;
12. Remove the remaining solution immediately, before it hardens;
13. Each plate should fit snugly against each other;
14. The width of the seams should not exceed 2 mm;
15. Dust the surface of the plates;
16. Fasten the thermal insulation with dish-shaped dowels at the rate of 6 pcs/m2.

VIDEO INSTRUCTION

Consumption and drying speed

The consumption of glue for gluing mineral wool depends on the company and varies from 4 to 9 kg/m2. The adhesive mixture dries for about 3 days, after which they proceed to install the protective layer.

For this reason, mineral wool slabs are fixed with additional fasteners. This will avoid unreliable fastening and possible falling off of mineral wool boards in the winter.

Helpful Hints

The most reliable fasteners can be achieved at a temperature of 20 degrees Celsius and humidity of about 60%.

If the installation of the insulation will take place in non-standard conditions, it is best to first consult with the manufacturer. Otherwise, the manufacturer is not responsible for the incorrect use of the adhesive solution.

Practical chips

In this short section, we have collected useful, practical chips that will help with the installation of thermal insulation.

• If you are using foam, dampen it with water before applying the adhesive foam. This will improve the adhesion (adhesion) of the foam and the sheet.
• When the walls are thermally insulated from the outside, there may be a blockage - a protrusion at the bottom of the wall of the house. In this case, the base profile can not be installed. Just cover the blockage with waterproofing to prevent moisture from entering the heat insulator.
• Insulation sheets should always be staggered. This is necessary for the inconsistency of the seams. This fastening avoids cold bridges.
• Do not leave fixed material on the wall unprotected. Putty styrofoam or hard stone wool or cover soft slabs with a windproof layer immediately. If moisture gets into the thermal insulation at the installation stage, the material will do its job very poorly.

We examined the general principles on how to fix mineral wool or other thermal insulation. As you can see, fixing the insulation to the wall is not a trivial task, but it requires some skills.

And one more trick:

Features of insulation in the apartment

In many respects, concrete is superior to such common building materials as brick or wood, but it has its own characteristics that must be considered before thermal insulation of walls:

• Although concrete has high strength, it allows moisture to pass through, and this is bad not only for it, but also for the insulation, so the material used must be moisture resistant.
• To prevent the formation of mold and fungus, before installing the insulation, concrete walls must be painted with an antiseptic.
• It is necessary to insulate not individual parts of the facade, but the entire building at once.
• The thinner the wall, the thicker the insulation should be.
• After cutting the opening for laying communications, the holes are sealed with mounting foam to eliminate heat loss.

Outside

To carry out the insulation of concrete walls from the outside, use foam "Facade". The size of foam sheets is 120x60 cm, and its thickness can be from 20 to 150 mm in increments of 10 mm. You can fix the insulation either with special glue or with a dowel-fungus.

From within

It is easier and cheaper to insulate an apartment from the inside, but it must be borne in mind that the wall remains unprotected, and therefore, at low air temperatures, it will cool even more, since heat is not supplied to it from inside the room.

The decision to insulate the walls only from the inside is taken in the most extreme cases, if this cannot be done from the outside of the building.

Here, the procedure for performing work will be the same as when performing insulation from the outside of the house.

To insulate the room from the inside, various materials are used, ranging from wallpapering (heat-insulating) to foam "Comfort".

Insufficient fastening of thermal insulation to the bearing surface

This may be the result of careless application of adhesive, use of materials with inappropriate parameters, or too weak mechanical fastening. Mechanical connections are all kinds of dowels and anchors. Don't skimp on the mechanical fastening of the insulation, whether it's heavy mineral wool or lightweight foam.

The place of fastening with a dowel must match the place of application of glue (bloopers) on the inside of the insulation

The dowels must be properly recessed into the thermal insulation. Too deep indentation leads to damage to the insulation boards and the formation of a cold bridge. Too small, leads to swelling, which will be visible on the facade.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for insulating walls from the inside

To insulate walls inside the building, the technology for carrying out the work is as follows:

• Training.
• Installation of a frame from a metal profile. You can make a frame from wooden blocks.
• Installing a vapor barrier.
• Mineral wool installation.

The preparation phase begins with cleaning the walls of plaster and other flaking particles. After that, various protrusions (sanding) and pits (puttying) are eliminated on the wall. The surface is covered with a primer to protect against mold.

After that, a frame is assembled from a metal profile. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the thickness of the profile corresponds to the size of the material.

Mineral wool sheets are installed in the frame, which are covered with a layer of vapor barrier on top. After that, you can sheathe the wall with decorative panels or drywall (Information on the types of drywall can be found here). Then the finishing work is done.

Using the recommendations for installing mineral wool, you can insulate the walls with high quality and get good sound insulation at home. This method of protection will not spoil the appearance of the house, but on the contrary, it will help create a beautiful facade finish.

The procedure for performing work on the insulation of the facade with solid mineral wool

In general, the procedure for insulating facades with solid mineral wool is similar to the technology for working with expanded polystyrene. But there are also some differences.

So, first of all, a basement (starting) bar is mounted on the wall along the bottom. It is mounted on dowels of a suitable size under the level. The width of the plank should correspond to the thickness of the mineral wool boards. This assumes that the walls either do not have a plaster coating, or the old coating has been removed.

Then, glue for mineral wool is diluted in a large plastic bucket with a capacity of more than 30 liters with a low-speed mixer. In such a bucket, a standard bag of glue weighing 25 kg just fits. First, you need to pour water into the bucket, and then pour all the glue from the bag in parts while stirring. Glue for mineral wool has a higher viscosity and adhesion to fibrous materials, unlike glue for polystyrene foam. Therefore, it is applied in even breasts on a mineral wool slab, which is immediately applied to the wall. Tap the plate with a rubber mallet through a piece of board to avoid dents on its surface.

The second row starts with half the plate. This is necessary for the formation of a run-up between the plates. Otherwise, a crack will definitely pass along the long vertical seam.The third row starts again with a whole plate and so on. If you need to trim, you can use a sharp knife or a hacksaw with fine hardened teeth.

After the installation of the boards on the adhesive is completed, you must wait at least 12 hours for the adhesive to set. Then you can continue to fasten the hard rock wool panels with fungal plastic dowels. Considering the greater weight of panels made of solid mineral wool compared to styrene, it is necessary to fasten each sheet of wool with 5 dowels. In no case should you glue the ends of adjacent sheets! In these places, cold bridges form and it is even possible for condensation to appear on the back of the wall in the room.

The mesh for mineral wool is mounted on a special glue for the mesh. It is also different from styrofoam glue. Since it must bind very loose fibers of hard mineral wool. However, when working with a mineral wool grid, there is a significant simplification. All grids can be immediately glued on top and down the wall, and then rub them all in one go. Simultaneously with the installation of the reinforcing mesh, it is allowed to install corners on window openings and external vertical corners. The second layer of adhesive plaster is applied as the first layer sets. Curing speed depends on weather conditions and ambient temperature. After applying the second layer of glue, you can proceed to the final finishing of the facade.

Features of thermal insulation of ceilings with stone wool

Stone wool is a fibrous insulator made from basalt. To improve the characteristics, various substances are introduced into its composition, including hydrophobic ones. The material is quite loose, saturated with an inert substance that does not transmit heat.

They insulate the ceiling due to a large air leakage through the ceiling, which can reach 20%. This product is used in the following cases: if the house has an attic that is poorly protected from the cold; if the attic of the mansion is not insulated; if the apartment is on the top floor and it is damp; if there are noisy neighbors upstairs.

The ceiling is insulated in two ways: from the inside and outside (from the side of the attic). The second method is more convenient and economical. It is allowed to mount the insulator from below if the room has sufficient height to accommodate it. For insulation from the side of the room, cotton wool is used, designed as plates, from the side of the attic - in the form of rolls. The thickness of the sheets ranges from 10-100 mm, if necessary, they can be laid in two rows.

The material absorbs moisture well, so the insulating "pie" includes waterproof materials - polyethylene or polypropylene film.

Fibers can have a harmful effect on a person, so follow the safety rules during work:

To avoid skin irritation, wear tight clothing with long sleeves and gloves. Wear goggles and a respirator to protect your eyes and respiratory organs. Change after work.

Keep the product away from children.

There should be no food in the room.

Make sure that the insulation threads do not scatter throughout the house. Clean up any leftover material.

It is often said that cotton wool is very dangerous, but this statement is not true. Modern technologies completely isolate the coating from the living space, and it will not bring trouble to anyone.

9 myths about insulation

The layman often has an erroneous belief in the following:

1. Is extruded polystyrene more reliable than polystyrene? But in terms of thermal conductivity, they are very similar. So, the usual PSB-35 transmits infrared radiation only 0.002 units more intense than the extruded PSB-35. In addition, the extruder is deformed under the influence of high temperatures and is much more expensive.
2. Is mineral wool cheaper? Yes, but this is only for roll material, and plates will cost you more than foam. In addition, the insulating power of mineral wool is less than that of PSB.

Which insulation to choose depends on many factors.

1. PSB does not allow the walls to "breathe"? This definition does not fall under any GOSTs and SNiPs - there is just a fear of condensation. But even vinyl wallpapers do not let steam through, so in this case the issue should be resolved not at the level of insulation, but at the level of the room ventilation device.
2. A warm facade does not increase the temperature in the room? This is certainly true, but it retains about 30% of the microclimate compared to a conventional wall. In fact, you will not heat the street.
3. Can styrofoam catch fire? But the wood from which houses are built also burns, and the ignition temperature of PSB is 491 ° C, while paper has 230 ° C, and wood has 260 ° C, that is, the anti-flammability properties of polystyrene foam are higher by 2.1 and 1, 8 times respectively.

Expanded polystyrene is quite resistant to fire

1. Does PSB have a low service life? I wouldn't say so! Given the fact that it began to be produced only in the 50s, it was not possible to test this in practice. But at the same time, cyclic tests were carried out with a change in humidity and a temperature difference of ± 40 ° C - the results showed 80 conventional years, you see, this is a lot.
2. Is the PSB not compliant with environmental regulations and therefore dangerous? However, it is completely non-toxic in use. The danger arises only when ignited - it melts, releasing toxic smoke, however, like other building materials made of plastic.
3. A second coat of plaster is optional - is paint enough? Of course, the paint protects from atmospheric precipitation and to some extent from ultraviolet radiation and temperature changes, but this is not enough. Decorative plaster in the form of a bark beetle or fur coat significantly increases the life of the insulation. That is, if we take 80 years for cyclic tests on an open SSB, then with additional protection this period will increase.
4. Does the type of material matter? This statement is not at all true, and manufacturers often hide the negative parameters of the insulation for their own benefit.

• firstly, the type of material, as well as its density, determine the thermal insulation power or the ability to pass cold;
• secondly, what you will use must comply with the State Standards for environmental and fire safety requirements;
• therefore, when buying a product, ask for a certificate, and if there is none, then there is a possibility that you are being offered low quality, and possibly even unhealthy material.

When insulating the facade, you should also take care of the high-quality adhesive composition.