Clapboard ceiling decoration is increasingly used in the process of landscaping apartments. The ceiling from the lining is assembled according to the principle of the designer without the use of glue or mortars, and after fixing the material does not need to be puttied or painted. This means that as a result of small efforts, a completely finished surface is obtained. Quality material, properly selected tools and clear instructions - this is all you need to create a beautiful and durable ceiling.
What is a lining?
In order to independently figure out how to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard, you need to decide what this facing material is and for what purposes it is used. clapboard for ceiling and wall cladding, it looks like thin boards with a special type of connection, in which a protrusion (thorn) of the next is inserted into the recess (groove) of one element.
Such a finish, with the right choice of material, will be appropriate not only in the kitchen and on the loggia, but also in living rooms. In apartments, lining is often attached to the ceiling. Due to the variety of types of lining ceilings, they are suitable for rooms with different operating conditions and aesthetic requirements. For its production are used:
- Whole woods.
- MDF boards.
- Plastic.
The scope of application also depends on the material. For example, in rooms with high humidity, it would be most logical to use plastic, since this material is absolutely not afraid of moisture and is highly resistant to pollution and fungus. MDF or treated wood will look great in any apartment and will highlight the kitchen or hallway.
A beautiful do-it-yourself lining ceiling is within the power of every home craftsman. He will breathe new life into the room and add personality to it.
Tools for fastening lining
Lining the ceiling with a clapboard, although it does not involve much effort, you will need some specific tools to complete it:
- Perforator and screwdriver or screwdriver.
- Wood saw or electric jigsaw.
- Stapler, square and hammer.
- Construction and water level or level.
- Roulette and marker.
- Scissors for metal (in case of installation on a profile frame).
frame
At this stage, you should decide on the crate. It can be done:
- from metal profile;
- wooden beam.
The choice of frame material depends on the functional purpose of the room: the metal profile is most suitable for conditions of high humidity, in other cases, you can choose the material at your discretion. When lining for ceilings is used, made of wood and its derivatives, the most justified will be the installation of a wooden frame, which is cheaper than metal and is great for attaching the sheathing.
All-wood lining, installed on the ceiling, creates an additional load on the frame, which, if necessary, should be strengthened.
Cladding board
The advantages of a strong wooden tenon-and-groove connection, practically devoid of gaps, have proven themselves well in finishing. The boards connected in this way have an attractive texture and, when assembled, are a solid wooden shield. The lining ceiling can be made using material with different types of profiles. These include:
- Euro lining - a decorative board, rounded at one end and having a recessed groove on the other. This type of profile complies with the European standard.
- American - has a special expanding shape, due to which, when fastened, an imitation of the overlapping of boards is obtained, which is widespread in the United States. This type of lining on the ceiling will look very interesting.
- Standard lining - used on the ceiling more often than other types. When sheathing between the slats, there are practically no recesses that are typical for eurolining.
- The block house is an imitation of a log, since the profile has a rounded front part. Finishing the ceiling in the apartment with a clapboard of this variety will make the surface look like a log house.
Installation of a metal frame
When using metal profiles, the sequence of work will be as follows:
- The lowest point is marked, from which the lining of the ceiling with clapboard begins. For this, at least 6 cm is laid down, where the first mark is placed. Then it must be transferred to other sides using a level or level.
- The metal frame from the guide profile (UD) is installed along the laid line and fixed with dowels.
- It is necessary to install a carrier profile (CD) in the guides, which is fastened at a distance of 10–15 cm from the starting point of the structure.
- The supporting profile is attached to the ceiling with U-shaped brackets every 50 cm. If there is a need to strengthen the rigidity of the frame, then crab connections are installed.
Installation of a wooden frame
When choosing wooden blocks as the basis for the frame, the assembly will take place as follows:
- The bars are fixed on the ceiling in the direction perpendicular to the future installation of the boards, the horizontalness of the structure is strictly controlled.
The distance between the bars must be kept within 40–60 cm for plastic and 60–100 cm for MDF and wood.
- At the beginning of work, it is necessary to determine the area on which the lining mounted on the ceiling will be located, and fix two beams on opposite sides of the room, then carefully align the resulting plane with a level.
- The following bars should be fastened to the ceiling in 50 cm increments, if necessary, placing wooden dies under them for exact horizontal alignment.
Depending on the type of ceiling, the timber is fastened with a driven dowel, anchor or screw. If a wooden lining is used on the ceiling, the fastening should be as reliable as possible.
- After installation and alignment, a thread is pulled between the bars, guided by which the remaining components of the crate are installed.
Reinforcement of such a structure is necessary only in case of increased load on the frame, usually these are the places for installing lamps, decorative elements or multi-level transitions.
Clapboard ceiling lining
Products made of wood or MDF have much more weight than plastic, as a result of which the lining of the ceiling with clapboard has special installation rules.
- The lining intended for the ceiling is pre-cut into pieces with a length corresponding to the distance required for installation minus 5 mm. The presence of such a gap will avoid the consequences of possible thermal expansion.
- The first strip of the cladding board is fixed on each rail at a distance of 3 mm from the wall.
To fix the strip on the beam, you can use clamps (fixing brackets), wood screws, building brackets fixed with a stapler, nails.
- The next strips are set at a slight angle, so that the spike coincides with the lock of the already installed facing board, pushing each new strip into the groove of the previous one as tightly as possible.
In the process of mounting the lining on the ceiling, it is necessary to ensure that there are no gaps between the elements, since their presence can lead to a violation of the integrity of the structure and deformation of the entire shield, which will be clearly visible when installing the last strip.
To simplify the installation process, a rubber hammer is used, which will allow for a better fit of all structural elements. The last strip is most conveniently installed using wedges.
In most cases, the cladding board installed at the end has to be cut along the entire length to match the dimensions of the ceiling. In this case, it is necessary to make cuts on the MDF panel on both sides with a knife, after which it can be carefully broken. In the case of a board from an array, you will have to use a hacksaw.
If a PVC coating is used, then when mounting on the ceiling, the plastic lining is fixed in a similar way, however, due to its low weight, the joining of the strips is much easier and without the use of a hammer or kleimer.
In maintenance, the lining installed on the ceiling is also quite simple, and in order to bring it to its original form, you just need to use a damp cloth.
