Installation of plastic barrels
Before burying a barrel under the sewer, it is worth determining its optimal location on the site. There are a number of fairly stringent sanitary requirements for permissible distances to residential facilities, site boundaries, and water supply sources. If possible, it is worth entrusting the choice of the installation site to an experienced specialist who will be able to take into account all the nuances of the site and the placement of buildings and communications.
Installation of plastic barrels
A plastic barrel is installed in a pre-prepared pit, the dimensions of which must exceed the dimensions of the container. This will allow, if necessary, to insulate the structure and securely fix the container.
The depth of the pit should ensure the installation of the barrel so that the level of the intake hole coincides with the depth of the inlet sewer pipe:
- At the bottom of the pit, a sand or crushed stone cushion with a thickness of at least 20 cm is arranged.
- After that, it is necessary to concrete the base, while it is worth installing the frame with anchors or hinges for the subsequent fastening of the container.
- After the foundation has gained sufficient strength (5-7 days), you can begin to install the barrel in its working position.
- The container is fixed to the foundation using a bandage made of cables or steel strips.
- If necessary, the septic tank is insulated with polyurethane foam or extruded polystyrene foam.
- Before backfilling the soil, it is necessary to fill the container to a certain level. At the same time, it is worth following the manufacturer's recommendations; for containers made of various polymeric materials, backfilling features may exist.
- All inlet and outlet communications, a ventilation pipe are connected to the barrel, after which it is finally closed with soil.
With reliable fastening and compliance with other technological requirements for installation, a plastic barrel can serve as a septic tank for quite a long time. To date, it is polymer containers that are considered one of the best materials for these structures.
Do-it-yourself arrangement of a septic tank from barrels
To ensure normal wastewater treatment, it is desirable to use two chambers in the septic tank: in the first, heavy substances settle to the bottom, and in the second, clarified water settles before being discharged into the ground.
Below we consider an example of arranging a septic tank from two plastic barrels with our own hands. This instruction can be considered universal, since most of the points are applicable to the installation of metal containers.
The design of such a treatment plant is not particularly complex. The barrels are sequentially connected to each other by means of an overflow pipe, while the second container is located 10-20 cm deeper than the first. Holes are cut in each tank for connecting sewer pipes and a ventilation outlet
It is important to observe the correct position of the inlet and outlet relative to each other: the inlet must be placed 10 cm above the outlet
Wiring diagram of a septic tank of two barrels
Clarified water can be drained into a filter well or a filtration field can be used. The well is used at a low level of groundwater and good permeability of the soil. For its installation, a bottomless barrel is used, in the lower part of which a 30-cm gravel pad is made.
The filtration field has a larger capture area, due to which water is drained even in conditions of low soil throughput. In this case, water is discharged from the second chamber of the septic tank into a drainage pipe, which is located in a layer of gravel or crushed stone.
The number of drainage pipes in the filtration field directly depends on the volume of wastewater
To complete the work, you will need the following materials:
- two barrels with a volume of 250-1000 liters (depending on the number of drains);
- sewer pipes with a diameter of 110 mm for outdoor installation (orange color);
- corners and tees for connecting pipes;
- glue and sealant for PVC;
- crushed stone of fine fraction (2-3.5 cm);
- cement;
- sand.
A set of tools for mounting a septic tank from plastic barrels is standard: a shovel, a rake, a level, a jigsaw and a container for mixing the solution.
- In barrels, using a jigsaw, holes are cut for sewer pipes and a ventilation riser. For the inlet, 20 cm recede from the upper edge, and for the outlet 30 cm. The gaps formed between the holes and pipes are filled with sealant.
Connections of elements of a homemade septic tank from plastic barrels
- The size of the pit is calculated in such a way that 20-30 cm remain between the soil and the wall of the tank. The walls of the pit are leveled, and the bottom is rammed.
- Before installing the barrels, the bottom of the pit is poured with a layer of concrete, in which several lugs or pins should be provided for anchoring the septic tank.
The tank is fixed with a strong cable or straps.
- In order for the walls of the septic tank to be protected from seasonal soil movements, the gap between the barrels and the soil is filled with a sand-cement mixture. To prevent deformation of the barrels as a result of the pressure created by the backfill, they are pre-filled with water.
- In the immediate vicinity of the septic tank, a pit is dug for a filter well or a filtration field is made to drain purified water into the ground.
- When all installation work is completed, the barrels are covered with a layer of soil. If desired, this place can be hidden from others with the help of grass and other vegetation, leaving only inspection hatches and ventilation on the surface.
Septic tank as an element of landscape design
After completing all the points in this manual, you can equip a simple septic tank from plastic or metal barrels with your own hands. For the installation of more complex treatment facilities, it is better to use the services of professionals.
Plastic containers for sewage
Plastic barrels for sewerage are quite popular today. It is not difficult to find a vessel with a capacity of up to 3-4 cubic meters, and this volume is already enough for a full-fledged overflow septic tank.
The advantages of barrels made of polymeric materials include the following properties:
Plastic barrels for sewers
- Resistance to corrosive processes, due to which such a container can be operated up to 30-50 years.
- High mechanical strength, which is practically not inferior to metal containers.
- Almost all types of plastic used are resistant to aggressive chemical compounds that are part of sewage and groundwater.
- The plastic container ensures the tightness of the septic tank, it does not need additional waterproofing.
For objectivity, it is worth mentioning the significant drawback of the tokay barrel.
In this regard, the installation of a septic tank from a plastic barrel requires additional measures for its fastening.
Metal barrels
Metal sewer barrel
Such containers have been used quite widely for a number of years. The main reason was that metal barrels for sewerage, as well as tanks of various sizes, were quite easy to purchase at a residual value during the collapse of many industrial enterprises.
At the current stage, the acquisition of a metal container of a significant volume is quite problematic and expensive, therefore, most often, standard household 200-250 liter metal barrels are used to install small drain pits.
These barrels are highly durable, they are able to withstand significant mechanical loads.
But it is worth considering that metal structures have a number of disadvantages that significantly limit their scope:
metal barrel
- Low resistance to corrosion and decay. Most household barrels are made of thin sheet metal, which, together with the aggressive properties of sewage and groundwater, significantly reduces the working life of the sewer storage device.
- The limited volume will lead to the need to constantly remove the collected effluent from the pit. At the same time, a question will definitely arise with their disposal; it is not advisable to call a sewage equipment because of 200 liters.
By and large, metal domestic barrels can be used as casing for a small drainage well. In this case, you can even dock 2-3 barrels, which will increase the volume of the device. The metal will prevent the walls of the pit from shedding, and the removed bottom and the holes cut in a checkerboard pattern will ensure moisture filtration.
Of course, the use of a metal tank will allow you to build a septic tank that meets all the requirements. Some manufacturers produce similar installations, but such a device will have a significant weight, which entails the need to use lifting equipment during installation.
Best Answers
Ruff:
You can do anything, who can forbid? ! ))) I will suggest such options. 1. Make drainage around the foundation of the house. Digs around the perimeter of a hole 60 cm deep, at the bottom - gravel and sand, put a thick drainage pipe with holes wrapped in geotextiles. When laying, observe slopes. Lead this pipe into a drainage well - dig a hole in the low corner of the site for 2-3 rings, concrete rings there and bring out the drainage pipe, cover with a lid from above, DO NOT concrete the bottom. We did this at one dacha, we use water from this well for irrigation. In winter it does not freeze, the ice is only on top, everything is fine. 2. Gutters under the roof of the house and a vertical drain pipe (still better to bring it away from the foundation) to a certain place in the ground. And in this place to bury either a holey barrel or a holey basin filled with gravel. Then the barrels will not be an eyesore, and the water will go into the ground through this filter without swamping the soil. 3. From the under-roof drains, bring the pipes away, either with pipes or hoses, into any container that is pleasant for you closer to the garden. But this system will not decorate the site, although it is convenient from an engineering point of view. 4. Now they sell rainwater tanks decorated to look like anything. Under Greek columns, under oak trunks, etc. In any case, your container for the winter will have to be emptied of water, as far as it suits you ... And think about it so that no one falls into it and drowns - not himself, not a mouse, not a cat, not a grandmother, not a grandfather, not a granddaughter, not a bug ...
Luke:
Of course, I did so, in case of a nuclear war :))))
Athena:
of course it is possible.
Veniamin Badzinsky:
It is possible, but first covered with bituminous mastic to protect against rust (the paint will be rather weak).
Ilmer:
Can. But there is only one problem: if it is left like this for the winter, then it will burst from the water inside.
Andrey Alekseev:
you can bury it before that by making the waterproofing of the container. but the water will fade
panina:
The former owners of the dacha buried the barrel in the ground almost “up to their ears”. There is no way to pump out water. The rest of the barrels, just standing on the ground and buried a quarter, have worn out for a long time, and the fully dug one is still alive.
Valentina Timofeeva:
water in such a barrel will not warm up
elena orlova:
can . but it will cool down and you will water (drain for watering) with cold water
Galina Volokovykh:
In spring, water is collected in a buried barrel from under the barn. we collect water in large bottles and put it in a greenhouse. then we water the seedlings. as long as you don't need a lot of water. The barrel is rusted. but it's still useful. Mice fall into it and die
Liza Halanay:
And we have a steel tank of 6 cubic meters standing on "legs" concreted into the ground for a meter, below a shed in the height of a man for small things. The tank is overgrown with roses and mulberries. We never drain the water for the winter, we just put a thick board vertically so that the walls of the tank do not open up with ice. The water in the tank is warm, warmed by the sun. A fitting with a tap is welded near the bottom, you can water the garden with a hose. Baku is 23 years old, as is the garden.